Revolver Action Job

[straightshooterjake]

If you want to do the work yourself, I wrote a long article on the subject on my blog. The article is here:

Improving the trigger on Smith & Wesson Revolvers

I should also note that while I enjoy working on revolvers, I am not exactly in the "you should do it yourself crowd." What i would say is:

if you are pretty handy, and comfortable with small parts, and don't mind buying some tools, and are looking for a small project, then you might want to do some research about whats involved in doing it yourself.
​

I would suggest starting the research by buying Jerry Miculek's "Trigger Job" video. I mention this video in the article, and it is the only video on S&W trigger jobs that I can recommend. It is well done, and for someone who is new to the subject, watching it at least twice is a good way to start this "small project."

I have watched all the S&W trigger job videos on youtube that I could find, and they all have problems or even completely wrong info. So I have not found any of them I could recommend. Buying Jerry's video is a better value than wrong info for free.

I would also say that you should be prepared for the first revolver to have a "first attempt" level of results. If you are careful, and you do some research, that first attempt may really be pretty good. But after you do half a dozen more, you will realize that the first one could be a lot better, and you will want to work on it again. If you want those "experienced" level of results any time soon, you might need help from someone who already has that experience.

 

[Pat Riot]

@straightshooterjake
Thank you very much for posting. I saved your web page in my “favorites” folder. Good stuff!

 

[357mag357]

Film495,
Will look into the shims. I have an older GP100 that has wear marks on 1 side of the hammer. Thanks.

 

[357mag357]

Straightshooter,
Great Info! Thank you.

 

[340PD]

I have never been one to dry fire my guns 10,000 times just to get the trigger to smooth out.
I have done a light polish on the rebound slide and cleaned up any wear marks on the inside of every revolver I own. On the Smith's I usually put in a Wolff or Apex 14# rebound slide spring and the J-frames get the mainspring spring from that kit. I have had no light strikes at all with the J-frames.
The K & L frames will get the 14# rebound slide spring and a Wolff Ribbed Factory Standard mainspring. In some cases, on some guns, the strain screw is not long enough to guarantee primer ignition on some handloads. Whether it is my sloppy primer seating or just the CCI primers I use, I have had the occasional failure to ignite. A second strike will always set off the round. Shimming the strain screw would solve the issue but,
My solution for that particular gun is to install (under five minutes) an Apex Firing Pin and reduced power firing pin spring. Failure to ignite gone and the gun becomes 100% reliable and the trigger us much smoother and lighter.
YMMV.

 

[CharliesHammer]

I've had revolvers with thousands of rounds through them and stones and springs are the only answer.

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Apex Firing Pin and reduced power firing pin spring

???

I never heard of that.

So I looked it up.

Oh, you're talking about a frame mounted firing pin.

All my center fire S&W firing pins, save two, are mounted on the hammers. Hence no firing pin spring.

 

[Jim Watson]

A reduced firing pin spring is part of a Python action job, too. Have to get the most out of the "raftered" mainspring.