Rings Around My Chamber

[0ne3]

If you can find it there was a thread started by waterboy3313. The title is Stainless pistol cleaning questions. i think it was jan, 30, 2020. It is a real good thread, I think it will answer your question. I think it was in , Hand Guns- General Discussion

 

[JohnKSa]

Except maybe the manufacturers.

Yes, they do. It's worth noting that even the manufacturers (who are, by definition, trying to sell you something) give some really strong hints about the primary purposes of those items by how they name them, and by how they list the intended uses. Also worth pointing out that Birchwood Casey distinguishes between "burn rings" and "carbon residue" as if they are two different things. Weird, huh.

It makes perfect sense that any abrasive method will remove not only very stubborn issues like carbon scoring/burn rings, but will also work for normal cleaning. Not that it's a good idea, but a person also could use sandpaper or a lapping compound to clean normal fouling from their guns. Of course, there are very good reasons why it's recommended to start with a less aggressive approach (like some solvent and a plastic brush) and only work up to more aggressive solutions like abrasives or prolonged soaking in solvent if it's really required.

Fortunately in this case, nothing other than normal cleaning is required because there's no need to remove burn rings/carbon scoring. For those who want to, or feel compelled to remove the burn rings, fortunately there are options available to them, that if used judiciously, aren't especially likely to cause any problems.

I would caution people who plan to soak assemblies to be careful to either insure that no cleaning agent is left in the assembly, or to be sure that the substance can remain safely in the assembly without causing harm or attracting and holding fouling which could cause functioning issues or other problems. This is a good general warning any time solvent is being used, not just when soaking. It's just that soaking definitely insures that it's going to get all the way into the assembly while typical use of solvent with a brush or cleaning patch isn't as likely to get it deep inside an assembly.

Similarly, those who are using abrasive cleaning approaches should be careful to clean away any abrasive residue that's left on the surfaces after the cleaning process so it doesn't get into any working mechanisms and cause undue wear. Also in both cases, be sure to follow manufacturer recommendations. The Hoppes Lead/Rust remover cloth, just as an example, warns against prolonged/repeated used on blued finishes and some solvents warn about prolonged exposure to certain finishes or materials.

Finally, I think its worthwhile to take a look at firearm manufacturer recommendations for cleaning. We forget about the manufacturers sometimes but they often provide some pretty good ideas on how to maintain their products. Even Ruger, whose DA revolvers are designed to break down more easily than other makers, and who openly provides a method for a pretty significant level of disassembly where other manufactures tend to discourage it, provides a cleaning procedure which doesn't even involve removing the cylinder from the handgun. The procedure makes no mention of the need to soak any parts in solvent for hours nor does it mention solving any cleaning issues with abrasives.

I remember in an armorer's course I took, the instructor (who was teaching us all to completely detail strip his employer's pistol line) stopped at one point and told the class this. "You know, I teach these classes all the time. I know how to take these guns apart down to tiny pieces and put them back together in almost no time without causing any damage. But I only very rarely do this to my guns because it's just not necessary. The vast majority of the time, I clean my guns just as the owner's manual recommends--without any more disassembly than a field strip."

I thought it was a very good lesson.

Look, I'm not trying to tell anyone that they're going to wreck their gun by cleaning the carbon rings off. I did it for years and never hurt anything that I could tell. I'm also not trying to say that people are screwing up if they remove the carbon rings. I'm just saying that any statement or implication that removing the burn rings is actually necessary is incorrect. It's similarly incorrect to state or imply that there's absolutely no potential downside to using aggressive methods to remove them.

So if you're a new shooter and wonder about the "burn rings" around your revolver chambers, you can feel very good about performing normal cleaning and leaving those burn rings in place. They're not the same as normal carbon fouling buildup which does need to be removed. They're not hurting anything at all and leaving them isn't neglecting your revolver. You don't need to pull parts off your gun and soak them for hours to remove carbon scoring. You don't need to use abrasives on your gun to get rid of burn rings. It's fine for the discoloration to remain.

But if you can't stand them there and really have to remove them, that's fine too--I was in that situation once. Be careful about the removal process (as described above) and it's unlikely you'll cause any issues. But please keep in mind that you're doing it to please yourself, not because it's required. Especially keep that in mind if another shooter asks you about carbon rings someday in the future. There's just no reason to tell people (or even to imply) that the rings need to be removed or that removing them is part of the normal cleaning process.

 

[CraigC]

As I've said, the baked on stuff is easily and completely removed with a long soak. Readers can do whatever they want. Remove the baked on stuff, or not. It's their gun, they can do whatever they want. Same for me.

There's an important distinction to be made here. Carbon scoring is not "baked on" but rather "baked in" as John suggested. It's a stain, carbon embedded into the steel. Anything on the surface will build up and potentially cause a problem. Carbon scoring does not build up.

 

[fxvr5]

There's an important distinction to be made here. Carbon scoring is not "baked on" but rather "baked in" as John suggested. It's a stain, carbon embedded into the steel. Anything on the surface will build up and potentially cause a problem. Carbon scoring does not build up.

So it's a stain that can be removed with soaking in solvent?

 

[tws3b2]

So it's a stain that can be removed with soaking in solvent?

I just applied hopps to my SS cylinder with a rag, let sit a few minutes then scrubbed with a brass brush. I then wiped with a clean white rag and some did come off on the rag. I did it over again and a little more came off but not all. I could see some difference when finished. Maybe all will come off but it sure would take some time and elbow grease. I expect you would lose a lot of bluing on a blued gun.

 

[fxvr5]

I just applied hopps to my SS cylinder with a rag, let sit a few minutes then scrubbed with a brass brush. I then wiped with a clean white rag and some did come off on the rag. I did it over again and a little more came off but not all. I could see some difference when finished. Maybe all will come off but it sure would take some time and elbow grease. I expect you would lose a lot of bluing on a blued gun.

So that does not sound like it qualifies as a stain since it came off on the rag. That just sounds like built-up residue that is baked on and can be removed with a bit more treatment with solvent and effort. It does not sound like the 'carbon scoring' that other folks have described.

 

[tws3b2]

I'm thinking maybe something like a biscuit or cookie pan. Over time residue or whatever is just baked into it and cleaning or scouring just can't get it out. Onced I tried to clean a pan with a steel brush and drill. Took a couple hours and practically had to grind into the metal. Never did get it all out.

 

[CraigC]

So that does not sound like it qualifies as a stain since it came off on the rag. That just sounds like built-up residue that is baked on and can be removed with a bit more treatment with solvent and effort. It does not sound like the 'carbon scoring' that other folks have described.

Whatever you say.

 

[fxvr5]

Whatever you say.

The feeling is mutual.

 

[CraigC]

In countless tens of thousands of rounds and 34yrs of not worrying about it, I have yet to see it build up.

 

[JohnKSa]

That just sounds like built-up residue...

Except that, of course, it isn't a buildup. This can easily be verified with magnification or by trying to feel for any edges to the discoloration or by trying to see any difference in the texture or character of the area with the rings. Or by cleaning the normal fouling off but leaving the carbon rings in place, cleaning after cleaning and many, many rounds and waiting to see that it doesn't get any thicker or deeper--it never builds up, even if it's never removed.

By admitting that it requires different methodology to remove it than normal carbon fouling (hours of soaking or abrasive methods) you, yourself are clearly acknowledging that it's different from normal fouling.

Anyone who's ever cleaned a revolver knows that the two things aren't the same and that what takes off normal carbon fouling doesn't remove carbon rings. Even you don't believe it or you would tell people to just put some solvent on a rag or a nylon brush and it will come right off just like normal carbon fouling does.