RRA AR15 help please. A buncha questions.

[Black Majik]

Hi all.

When it comes to AR15's, I'm absolutely clueless. Partly cuz I can't own one... yet... I'm done some research, I'm searched, I've read ARF.com. But I dont really feel comfortable asking noob questions on that site and their search function is pretty useless since you can only search back to the last 30 days. The rest is all archived and cant be accessed into. So I'd appreciate any help you guys can give by answering some questions I have.

So I'm looking for an upper to go with my RRA LAR-15 lower. I've decided on the Standard A4 Stainless and the National Match A4 (comes stainless).

I can't really tell what the differences are:

Both use the same Wilson 1:8 barrel. Both are flattopped so you can add the NM carry handle to the A4's.

So what is the difference? Is the fit tighter on the National Match upper? Would I even notice it since I'm just getting a plain jane RRA lower?

Any advice to the LPK/trigger? I was thinking of getting the RRA 2 stage trigger. Would that be a good idea or should I look elsewhere.

Also, is it possible to use a free floating tube on a National Match upper? Steve at RRA told me that the FF tube is incompatible because of the DCM sleeves. How is that different from the standard sleeve?

Lastly, If I built the gun on the plain jane RRA lower, would there be any differences in accuracy between the standard stainless and the national match uppers?

My intent rite now is to build a full RRA AR15.

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Somewhat unrelated. What is the gas block and what is its intended purpose? Also, if I built a M4gery, and I used the tactical mount provided by RRA, if I used an aimpoint can I still co-witness or would i have to use the flattop with a BUIS?


I appreciate any of your guys insight an help very much!

 

[taliv]

the only reason to get the "national match" is to compete in service rifle competition. if you put any tactical crap on it like rails or collapsable stock or scope, it will no longer be service-rifle legal.

their varmint-style flattops will be as accurate or more than the NM.

the FAQs on arfcom should help out a bit more than the regular threads

pretty sure the NM barrel is already free floated (mine is) so what's the point in a FF tube? aesthetics?

 

[Black Majik]

the only reason to get the "national match" is to compete in service rifle competition. if you put any tactical crap on it like rails or collapsable stock or scope, it will no longer be service-rifle legal.

their varmint-style flattops will be as accurate or more than the NM.

the FAQs on arfcom should help out a bit more than the regular threads

Well... the reason why accuracy is important is because I do intend to eventually try out HP matches and be service rifle legal. This rifle will be pretty much stock except for a carry handle so I have some rear sights to aim with

Thanks for your help.

 

[Beetle Bailey]

Richard, I just got my RRA NM A2 upper today. Once I get everything built up you can try it out to see if that's what you want (IINM the only difference is that mine has a fixed carry handle).

The NM is advertised as having a free-floating handguard, BTW. I got the RRA 2-stage trigger as well, so that's another thing you can try.

 

[Sheldon]

The free float handguard helps to isolate the barrel from the effects of any tension on the handguards...which is where the attachment point is for the sling and bi-pod if used (on a free float system). On a regular AR15 the handguard itself attaches to the front sight assembly and the sling attachment is there as well. On the free float system the handguard is connected to a free floating tube that does not touch the front of the barrel at all and the sling attachment is off the barrel as well. For a position shooter who shoots with the sling this is a big deal as otherwise the sling tension whould be on the barrel and definately effect the point of impact of the bullet.

 

[Otherguy Overby]

ATTENTION!!!

There is a loophole in CA's AW ban created by a court decision.

If you buy a regular stripped lower receiver that is not mentioned on CA's ban list it is legal as long as you don't assemble it.

Once the CA AG adds the specified lower to the list you've 90 days to register it. It then becomes a registered, legal CA assault weapon and you can assemble it with most any feature you want.

Hurry...

see:

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/forumdisplay.php?f=81

 

[dmftoy1]

I've got the RRA NM DCM legal A3 upper and love it. I'm not a very good shot with a rifle but this gun makes me look good. I had a carry handle laying around so that's why I went with the A3. I've also have the RRA NM 2 stage trigger and I'm contemplating buying that trigger for my Bushy because it works well for me on the other rifle. I've only used one other 2 stage and that was on my neighbor's Bushy Varmiteer and it's nice, but is much much more complicated than the RRA (Set screws, etc.). The negative to the Bushy setup (IMHO) was that one blown primer jammed the trigger group up completely and we had to spend 15 minutes trying to get it out before we could shoot again.

Have a good one,
Dave

 

[Jon Coppenbarger]

The only difference will be the front sight post and the free float tube and hand gaurds.
Post is tapered on the nm and not on the regular A4
The hand gaurd is internally modified to allow the free float tube to fir inside it
Yes and the float tube and rock rivers has one of the best.
For the difference in the prices it is a get it now or pay more later to get it that way. The tube list price is $100 by its self.
If you plan on matches later get the nm upper as you will NEVER get the other one to shoot well without that tube.

 

[BIGPHIL]

Buy the NM. The barrel is free floated. Its got a service rifle tube under the standard looking handguards. Also get the two stage NM trigger for your lower. You will not be dissapointed. Their NM uppers can flat out shoot.

Lockup on the lower and upper will be tight as well. If you ever think you may want to shoot highpower, then that is the rig to get.

 

[Lebben-B]

I don't think anyone has adressed Majik's other question (If it has, apologies).

The gas block is "part" of the front sight assembly on a standard AR. Just above the barrel is a hollow arm between the diagonal and vertical legs of the front sight assembly that runs parallel with the barrel. This is the gas block and is where the gas tube fits into. The gas block is aligned with the gas port in the barrel to allow gasses behind the round to be vented down the gas tube and start the function cycle of the rifle.

On some ARs, the stock front sight assembly cannot be used because it would interfere with the use of optics, so a modified gas block is used. Usually it will have a small 1913 rail located at the 12 o'clock position for the addition of an iron front sight, if needed.

Mike

 

[Black Majik]

The free float handguard helps to isolate the barrel from the effects of any tension on the handguards...which is where the attachment point is for the sling and bi-pod if used (on a free float system). On a regular AR15 the handguard itself attaches to the front sight assembly and the sling attachment is there as well. On the free float system the handguard is connected to a free floating tube that does not touch the front of the barrel at all and the sling attachment is off the barrel as well. For a position shooter who shoots with the sling this is a big deal as otherwise the sling tension whould be on the barrel and definately effect the point of impact of the bullet.

Thanks Sheldon for the explanation. That makes perfect sense. Thank you.

ATTENTION!!!

There is a loophole in CA's AW ban created by a court decision.

If you buy a regular stripped lower receiver that is not mentioned on CA's ban list it is legal as long as you don't assemble it.

Once the CA AG adds the specified lower to the list you've 90 days to register it. It then becomes a registered, legal CA assault weapon and you can assemble it with most any feature you want.

Hurry...

see:

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/forumdisplay.php?f=81

Thank you OtherGuy for the heads up. I already have 3 receivers currrently.

I've got the RRA NM DCM legal A3 upper and love it. I'm not a very good shot with a rifle but this gun makes me look good. I had a carry handle laying around so that's why I went with the A3. I've also have the RRA NM 2 stage trigger and I'm contemplating buying that trigger for my Bushy because it works well for me on the other rifle. I've only used one other 2 stage and that was on my neighbor's Bushy Varmiteer and it's nice, but is much much more complicated than the RRA (Set screws, etc.). The negative to the Bushy setup (IMHO) was that one blown primer jammed the trigger group up completely and we had to spend 15 minutes trying to get it out before we could shoot again.

Have a good one,
Dave

Does the NM 2 stage trigger come as a complete group or would I have to piece it together? How does the RRA NM trigger compare to other NM triggers from other brands? Thanks for your response Dave. It was helpful

The only difference will be the front sight post and the free float tube and hand gaurds.
Post is tapered on the nm and not on the regular A4
The hand gaurd is internally modified to allow the free float tube to fir inside it
Yes and the float tube and rock rivers has one of the best.
For the difference in the prices it is a get it now or pay more later to get it that way. The tube list price is $100 by its self.
If you plan on matches later get the nm upper as you will NEVER get the other one to shoot well without that tube.

When you said the front post is tapered on the NM version, can you expand on that? I was wondering how this would benefit the shooter if the post was tapered.

I don't think anyone has adressed Majik's other question (If it has, apologies).

The gas block is "part" of the front sight assembly on a standard AR. Just above the barrel is a hollow arm between the diagonal and vertical legs of the front sight assembly that runs parallel with the barrel. This is the gas block and is where the gas tube fits into. The gas block is aligned with the gas port in the barrel to allow gasses behind the round to be vented down the gas tube and start the function cycle of the rifle.

On some ARs, the stock front sight assembly cannot be used because it would interfere with the use of optics, so a modified gas block is used. Usually it will have a small 1913 rail located at the 12 o'clock position for the addition of an iron front sight, if needed.

Mike

Thanks mike, that explanation makes sense. So in a sense the only time to get a new gas block would be if you bought a different handguard and needed to reposition the gas block? Did I get that right?


Last question. Does the tactical handle co-witness with an aimpoint reddot? I read on one of the sites (I think RB Precision) that you had to have a x wide ring/mount for it to be co-witnessed. Anyone have any insight to this? Can I use other mounts to to co-witness an aimpoint?

Thanks everyone for your replies and insight. Any more insight is very welcome. Its much appreciated!

 

[dmftoy1]

The RRA NM 2 stages come at 4 (or 5 pieces). You get rid of your old trigger, disconnector and hammer and replace it with a hammer and trigger (the disconnector is built into these two pieces). The other bits that come with it are a new hammer spring, and 2 pin to hold the hammer and trigger. (I can't remember if there's another spring or not. )

Anyway, basically what you do is remove the safety/selector, and push out the pin for the hammer, push out the pin for the trigger, then put your new bits back in with the new pins and voila you're in business.

I'd say if you've done one before and it takes you more than 10 minutes you're not trying very hard. The first one I did took me probably 20 because I was trying to make sure everything was perfect.

Have a good one,
Dave

 

[Black Majik]

The RRA NM 2 stages come at 4 (or 5 pieces). You get rid of your old trigger, disconnector and hammer and replace it with a hammer and trigger (the disconnector is built into these two pieces). The other bits that come with it are a new hammer spring, and 2 pin to hold the hammer and trigger. (I can't remember if there's another spring or not. )

Anyway, basically what you do is remove the safety/selector, and push out the pin for the hammer, push out the pin for the trigger, then put your new bits back in with the new pins and voila you're in business.

I'd say if you've done one before and it takes you more than 10 minutes you're not trying very hard. The first one I did took me probably 20 because I was trying to make sure everything was perfect.

Have a good one,
Dave

Thanks Dave, looks like I'll just get the NM LPK which comes with the trigger, hammer sear and all the other goodies.

Anyone have an answer to whether I can co-witness using a tactical handle and an Aimpoint ML2? Also what mounts I need for this.

Thanks!