Ruger Blackhawk cylinder question

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Bullseye

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Fairly simple question. I have a 1958 XR3 frame .357 Ruger Blackhawk coming to me tomorrow with a noticable cylinder ring that I could let disturb me.
I am kind of fussy but then the gun being almost as old as me looks in much better shape than I am.
I've located a 1980's new .357 cylinder, of course it has different numbers stamped on it. It was a "convertable cylinder". I suppose the 9 mm cylinder stayed with that revolver and the .357 is like new.

Question ... will it fit my flat top?
 
It'll have the same turn line in about 50 rounds I reckon, why go to the effort? Hell I had a turn line on mine just from dry fire the same day I brought it home (SS SBH)
 
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Ideally a cylinder should be fitted to the individual gun to ensure it is in time. You could just cold blue the present cylinder. Or just live with it. I love guns where they show wear from my personal use. My Bisley is missing most of the blue from the back of the grip frame, parts of the front of the grip frame, and the ride edge of the frame where my index finger wraps around the trigger. To me that's the mark of when man and gun have become one with each other. It's like a natural extension of my hand now.
 
Since you will have the cylinder, you can easily check. If it fits the frame and b-c gap and headspace are OK, no problem.

I assume by cylinder ring that you mean a turn ring on the outside of the barrel, not a bulge in one of the chambers. Rugers are not especially noted for turn rings (unlike S&W's where it is normal), but if it is too noticeable, the timing can be adjusted (with some new parts) to drop the bolt into the leade.

But if the timing is off, the new cylinder will change nothing and, as Sequins says, the turn line will be right back.

Jim
 
No, it won't fit. New Model .357's are built on the large Super Blackhawk sized frame. The cylinder will be much larger.


It'll have the same turn line in about 50 rounds I reckon, why go to the effort?
It shouldn't. Old Model Ruger Blackhawks have a traditional half cock action and should never ring the cylinder if you take care to never lower the hammer from the half cock notch.
 
Well, I got my answer and I will try to live with the honest wear from use. Will post pic tomorrow. I am not going to buy the cylinder.
Thanks all.
 
Since you will have the cylinder, you can easily check. If it fits the frame and b-c gap and headspace are OK, no problem.
In addition you should range rod it to see if the bolt stops align the chambers with the barrel on each hole.

But the cylinder won't fit anyway, so, no need.

Cylinder turn rings on old traditional SA's are most often caused by operator error.

Any time the hammer comes back to half cock for loading?

Finish cocking it before lowering the hammer again.

Otherwise, the bolt will be pressed tight into the cylinder by the hammer cam when you lower the hammer and rotate the cylinder until you find a locking notch for it to click into.

It takes the load off and snaps in place without dragging when cocked and lowered.

It can't when lowered from half-cock and drags on the cylinder under hammer cam pressure as you rotate it to find a bolt stop cut.

rc
 
I wouldn't "Fix" the turn line on any revolver. The only way to prevent that is to never cock the hammer - which would be fine on a valuable collector gun that you'd never fire & only touch with gloves on.
 
The Colt SAA, most of its clones, and many Rugers have a cylinder stop/bolt spring that is entirely too strong and does unnecessary damage to the cylinder no matter where it contacts the cylinder. It won't "cut through" or weaken the cylinder, but it will gouge it. If that is of concern, feathering that spring or replacing it will help.

Jim
 
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