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http://www.rimfiresports.com/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=RSC&Category_Code=VC2
good prices here for ruger/Volquartsen stuff fyi
good prices here for ruger/Volquartsen stuff fyi
I used a couple stainless steel washers from Ace Hardware on the Mk III bushing. Runs like a top too. That dang mag safety was the first thing to go, and Bullseye57's sight was all I needed to find my way around this pistol.I bought the Mark II bushing (at least I think it is the right part) doesn't seem to work right.
This is a big reason why I got the clark and put up with the headache of installing it. I tried the washer method but trigger creep was way worse afterward. The outer diameter of the clark hammer bushing spaces the sear properly.Once thing the Clark bushing does that the std bushing does not is limit the sear engagement.
Field stripping is a piece of cake once you learn the positions the hammer and hammer strut have to be in for the gun to go back together. I've never timed myself, but bet I can strip and reassemble one in under 2 minutes....They really are simple guns."RE-assembly" is a common complaint of Mk.III owners. I understand a Ph.D. in Mechanical Engineering helps.
That said, I plan on just using a LOTTA q-tips and cleaning the bore, until I feel the need to remove the grips and finally soak it in "something." And PRAY that that works!
What problems are you having, War Wagon?
Then i did the unthinkable...looked at the manual and five minutes later it was good to go.
What about Mark II bushing with Mark III Hammer?
see the middle example. MKIII hammer with the clark MKII bushing. The factory MKII bushing will also work on MKIII hammers.What about Mark II bushing with Mark III Hammer?
So that's it, just leave all the other crap out and stuff it in there?see the middle example. MKIII hammer with the clark MKII bushing. The factory MKII bushing will also work on MKIII hammers.