Ruger Mk II problem

[bernie]

I have shot Ruger Mk II pistols for years and they are my favorite mark of the Ruger pistols. I recently sent one off to be drilled and tapped. Actually, I just sent the barreled receiver. I got it back today and was excited to get it put back together and mount the pic rail on it with the red dot that I had purchased. However, when I slid the bolt back in I noticed it had some "drag". When I got it all put back together I pulled the bolt back to function check the pistol, and the bolt is stuck in the rearward position. I cannot get anything to happen. The bolt catch is not engaged, but it won't move. I cannot remove the mainspring with it locked open. What do I do?

 

[1911JAS]

There might be a burr on the hole in side of the receiver. Can you gently tap the bolt forward? Can you look in side the receiver from the ejection port and see the taped holes? A picture would help.

 

[1911JAS]

I took my standard apart to look at the top of the bolt. Depending on where the holes are drilled and taped, it could be hanging up on the recoil spring guide.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

Take the grips off, knock the pins out to let all the parts fall out the grip. That should take upward pressure off the bolt and let you remove it. Then, look for a burr at your new holes.

 

[rabid wombat]

Could it be something as simple as one of the rail screws set too deep / long? Try backing out any screw over the bolt...see if that helps

 

[bernie]

It pushed back in with gentle pressure. It was not the screws as they were not in the receiver yet. I will drop an update once I figure it out.

 

[film495]

reach up throught the magwell or through the ejection port and see if you can maybe wiggle the bolt a bit and get it to let go and come forward. maybe see if you can apply some downward force to the front while you give it a firm tap on the back of the bolt. is the bolt all the way back and stuck hard or does it still have some play in it a bit, but just won't move forward?

I've never done it on my MK2, but can you pull the bolt stop out like you were going to strip it at that point, and just pull the bolt out the back?

 

[beag_nut]

It pushed back in with gentle pressure. It was not the screws as they were not in the receiver yet. I will drop an update once I figure it out.

I would then strongly suspect a burr on the inside. Not the easiest thing to remove, and the entity which did the hole may have neglected to check for/remove the burr.

 

[JohnB-40]

Could it be something as simple as one of the rail screws set too deep / long? Try backing out any screw over the bolt...see if that helps

I would try this also before taking anything else apart.

 

[243winxb]

Recoil Spring Assembly or slop in the ejector, binding. My guess.

 

[beag_nut]

In the post #6, the OP says that the screws were not in place when the problem appeared.
He did not say that the problem appeared before the drilling and tapping, which pretty much eliminates a spring or sloppy ejector.
My money is on a burr or "dingle-berry" hanging down.

 

[1KPerDay]

In the post #6, the OP says that the screws were not in place when the problem appeared.
He did not say that the problem appeared before the drilling and tapping, which pretty much eliminates a spring or sloppy ejector.

unless the Smith bumped the ejector against something while working on the gun.

 

[beag_nut]

unless the Smith bumped the ejector against something while working on the gun.

True enough, though I hope not.
My decades of metalworking are hoping that a (fairly simple) blind deburring is all that is needed. They even make tools for that!

 

[beag_nut]

unless the Smith bumped the ejector against something while working on the gun.

Except that the OP only sent the barreled receiver to be altered.
Any further input from the OP ("bernie")?

 

[Kp321]

Except that the OP only sent the barreled receiver to be altered.
Any further input from the OP ("bernie")?

The ejector is in the barreled receiver.
That was my first thought on what the problem was.

 

[bernie]

I finally found the time to get into it. There was one loose metal chip that had it bound up.

 

[beag_nut]

Thank you for the update.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

Some drag on the bolt just might mean that the rear base hole (through hole) has the screw poking through and into the receiver slightly. That's the only thing that might cause the dragging, especially if there wasn't any dragging previously.
If the ejector rivet has loosened (doubtful) you would have experienced movement before the D/T was done. I've D/T tons of the Mark I & II receivers and can't see how the ejector could get loosened up, but I suppose anything is possible.
First thing I'd recommend, is to grind a thread or two off the rear base mounting screws end.

 

[beag_nut]

Again, please look at my post, #11, and the OP's at #6. Screw length not the problem.
And in #16 the OP tells us about the metal chip.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

Interesting. As was mentioned, the only through hole for the D/T is the rear hole, so, that may have been where the drilling burr broke off of. If the "hammer strut" was not properly installed into the mainspring housing spring follower, the bolt will not retract at all. And, it seems the issue came after the D/T.
Yes, the ejector, at least on all of the Ruger Mark pistols I've worked on over the years, has always been riveted in place in the receiver, but it will take much more than a "bump" to move that sucker.
I'd like to have seen the size of that "chip" causing the grief.