Ruger MkII: sharp ejection port! Can I sand it down?

[MatthewVanitas]

I recently purchased a lightly-used Ruger MkII to replace the Ruger 22/45 I sold. I love the Ruger format, but hated the 22/45 grip, though I love the real 1911. Go figure.

I've noticed that if it gets even slightly dirty I get a bunch of FTFs and FTEs. I'm starting to think that there's some chamber buildup. I try to clean .22LR mostly with patches, to avoid over-brushing the bore. I'm thinking that there's gunk in the chamber that patch-cleaning is missing. Perhaps I can wrap a patch around a brush and swab the chamber a bit?

But the real problem: on a couple occasions when I've tried reaching into the chamber to dislodge a round or brass (pointed safe direction, safety on, bolt locked back), I've cut the heck out of my trigger finger on the ejection port!

Can I take some 220-grit and lightly brush around the sharp edge of the ejection port, or will that impede proper functioning? I figure I'd stroke perpindicular to the "blade", and stroke outwards so that any "grain" is moving towards the outside of the receiver.

I realize that some folks on the board are comfortable doing all kinds of crazy things, doing full melts on an SP101 over the weekend, etc. But I'm a little paranoid as to removing metal, however little, and just wanted to make sure that having a freaking razorblade around the ejection port wasn't part of Sturm/Ruger's masterplan.

It's a great gun, scary accurate. Thanks much, -MV

 

[StrikeEagle]

Well... years ago I had an FIE .380 that lacerated my fingertips like razorblades when I drew the slide back. I very VERY lightly broke the sharp edges of the striations with some fine sandpaper. Hated doing that but had to... the piece was unusable otherwise.

It wasn't a collectable (though I wish I still had it) and neither is the Ruger. I'd say do what ya gotta do. Just use extreme care, it's easier to take metal off than blahblah blah etc.

StrikeEagle

 

[model 649]

Go for it. Knock all the sharp edges off all the areas you need to. Life is far too short to put up with finger-eating pistols. I generally use stones to break edges. I keep a selection of small, flat or semi-round emery stones which are followed by hard arkansas. Look ma, no blood! Unless the pistol is purely a "collector", or "safe-queen", make it useable for yourself. BTW, a bronze brush will not only remove lead fouling, unlike a patch, it won't hurt your barrel either. What is "over-brushing"?
Josh

 

[shooter1]

I would remove the sharp edges for sure! All I uae to clean bores on rimfires are bore snakes. I use a .30 bore snake for my .22s. Gets um twice as clean, five times faster!
str1

 

[MatthewVanitas]

Good deal, I broke down the edge; took about two minutes with some 220-grit, and now it feels crisp but not sharp.

Before I did that, all it took was brushing against the port edges while clearing a jam, and I'd get blood running down my finger.

I'm pretty sure that the sanding will have no mechanical effect, but I'll see next time I shoot it. Even if the upper receiver spontaneously combusted, I'd at least have a good excuse to buy a Pac-Lite upper.

IRT "overbrushing", I had heard the adage about many folks wearing out their guns through overcleaning more than overshooting. I was under the impression that scrubbing the heck out of the bore would wear the rifling away faster. I suppose brass is softer than steel, so the brush would wear out first... How do folks damage by overcleaning?

Thanks for the reassurance, -MV

 

[Vern Humphrey]

How do folks damage by overcleaning?

Three ways:

1. By "funneling" the breech and muzzle (very common on weapons that must be cleaned from the muzzle.)

2. By dragging grit into the bore enbedded in the cleaning rod.

3. By constant stripping and re-assembling (wear on parts is accelerated.)