Ruger No. 1 Falling Block - Farquharson

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labnoti

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I know there are some Ruger No. 1 threads out there, but I had a hard time finding them since Ruger, No, and 1 are not specific enough search terms. I tried some of the other terms in the thread title but didn't get good results.

There is good information around the web about the variants, 1A, 1B, 1AH, 1S etc., but I'm wanting to know more about first-hand experiences. Unfortunately, I'm not likely to be able to handle many or perhaps none at all unless I order one.

Watching this video:

My curiosity was piqued at 2:54 when he describes the handling characteristics of the 1A with a 24" barrel.

The issue of accuracy seems to be a perennial one with Ruger No. 1's, and from what I've read it seems the light barrels are most likely to have problems. Other people blame the two-piece stock, even though the barrel is full floating and the forestock doesn't touch it. So if I were to believe internet rumors, presumably a 1B would be more likely to be accurate. But I haven't actually read anyone vouching that 1B's are more accurate, just that light barrels (presumably 1A's) are less likely to be. I certainly want to avoid an inaccurate rifle, but the weight and handling are one of the things that attract me to a single-shot rifle to begin with.

So I'm curious about the handling of 1A's with 22" and 24" barrels with and without scopes. My particular interest is in a hunting rifle. I'm not interested in collecting rare No. 1's like the guy in the video. I suppose I'm something of a minimalist when it comes to hunting. I like a light, simple, handy rifle. The rifles I have now are bolt action, and one of them is a nifty micro-action so I get a 24" barrel in a 42.5" rifle. I don't need a magazine on a hunting rifle for non-dangerous game, so the advantages of an even shorter action appeal to me. I also need more rifles because I now have more hunters in the household and not enough guns.

With respect to the Ruger No. 1, I think what appeals to me would be an open-sighted rifle without an optic. I hunt in open country so I've got to be able to make shots that are 200 yards or more. Because of that, I'm probably not into the big-bore 1S models chambered for a cartridge with which I'd have to endure too much recoil. There is a 24" 1AH in 6.5 CM but it has no sights. So current new stock 1A's with sights include a 24" 250 Savage, and 22" 30-30, .308, and .30-06. I probably prefer the 30-30 but any of those chamberings could work fine for me. On the other hand, I could be persuaded concerning one of the 1B's or a 1S in .35 Whelen. I'd like to hear more personal experiences.

The guys in the video talk-up the 24" 1A's but I'm not sure I understand why those would balance or handle better than a 22". I'm guessing that all 1A's have the same taper and the longer barrels get thinner at the muzzle.

I'm also interested in what options there are for Ruger No. 1 stocks. It looks like most of the models come with premium wood, a few with laminated stocks. I'd probably make them fit my longer length of pull with a fat recoil pad and if I used only the open sights I wouldn't need to be concerned with raising the comb. But I wasn't able to find any options for inexpensive stocks that could be cut down to shorter lengths of pull for kids. A 30-30 No. 1 could be a great kids rifle, but the one I have in mind needs a 12.5" LOP. I searched Brownells, Ruger, and Boyds for replacement stocks but didn't find anything. Elsewhere I found semi-inlet custom stocks but they were all high-dollar stuff. I'd want an optic on the kid's hunting rifle anyway. The one they have now has a Boyd's At-One adjustable stock and a good Leupold scope and I think that gives them more confidence because sub-100 yard shots might not be what's available where we hunt. I need another rifle like that, but I could also use a No. 1 for myself.
 
I had a Ruger No 1 International in .270 back in the '80s. Mine had the barrel length stock. I remember it being very accurate and it held up well for me as I hunted mule deer on the Llano Estacodo. Horse, Iron sights, leather scabbard, and binoculars.

The falling block action it what attracted me to the rifle in a quaint Sharps kind of nostalgic way. It was also the action that caused me to sell the rifle later on as I became interested in more active varmint hunts. Shooting from the prone position is cumbersome since the rifle has to be canted to the side to work the action. Eyes and rifle are forced off target.

In those days getting anything custom done to a rifle was hard to find and super expensive. Most of the time custom work was way out of my price range and just didn't happen. Thinking about those hunts caused me to look these up a while back and I was shocked at the cost of these rifles today. There are better values out there for the dollar and much easier ways to change LOP, comb, and mount optics.

Just my .02

.40
 
Had 2 No 1 rifles. One 45/70 That was quite accurate with many loads. A 7x57 that had a throat so long that even 175 grain Hornady spire points were .075 from the rifling when seated as far out as possible. That one shot 2.5 to 4 inches depending on the bullet used. The 45 70 required a bit of forearm work.

Light barrels are not necessarily less accurate than heavier barrels. The do heat up faster and the groups may open up as they get hot. Long shot strings for large game is not generally an issue . Really shouldn't be an issue with single shot.

You state you may need to take longer shots. Not sure why you want to go without any optics. Is the area so open the game stands broadside in broad daylight against contrasting backgrounds? Wondering bout your preference for 30 30 also. It is a good cartridge , but, trajectory really starts to fade after 150 to 200 yards depending on the bullet. Maybe you need to define what you are looking for a bit better. Not an insult just a suggestion.
 
I have few #1 and I would suggest you handle one before buying. I have #1 that has 24" barrel, stock is factory and its 40.5" long and you get shorter barrel, I be concern about muzzle blast.

When you open lever you need at least 4 1/2" . Mine are older models and have been worked on. There is Ruger forum might get better feed back on newer models.
 
I love them and they are really nice rifles they just have little things about them. One is getting the right scope/mount setup for the correct eye relief.

What you may have read regarding accuracy, sometimes an issue with accuracy is because the front tab that holds the forearm is lightweight and in my opinion should have been stronger with less flex so that the forearm stays full floating in all shooting positions a person may encounter.

I have never done it myself but for guns with this issue I have heard and read where guys had good results by putting a pressure point screw in the forearm tab against the barrel.
 
I currently own one Ruger No. 1, originally a 1B in .270 Winchester, which I recently remodeled extensively and had rebarreled to 32-40. I can offer two moderately intelligent comments for this thread.

First, scoping a No.1 using the factory rib and rings is tricky. My rifle left the factory in 1974, so things have probably changed since, but the rib on mine had exactly two ring mounting positions -- that lack of flexibility means that finding a scope you like that will fit _and_ have correct eye-relief for your eyes is a real challenge. There are bolt-on workarounds, but I finally gave up and went with iron sights when I rebarreled mine (Pac-Nor, in my case).

Second, the aftermarket for Ruger No.1 stocks is slim and expensive. My original stock was cracked, so I searched a very long time by Internet standards before locating an overpriced, used factory laminated stock for sale. Even with this factory stock some fitting was required. Buying a semi-finished and fitting it properly yourself is more difficult than it looks -- the inletting around the tang needs to fit just right or it will look all wrong. If you have the money, get a pro to do the work for you.

RugerNo1.jpg
 
That's helpful. The first point means it will probably never work for my kids because besides getting the right length of pull for them, I'd also need to get the corresponding unusual eye relief. I hadn't thought of that, but with the Ruger rings I can see how inflexible it would be. The second point is one I found myself when trying to solve the length of pull issue itself. Without a inexpensive machine-inletted stock, I simply won't attempt it because it's not worth the expense and effort for what will be a temporary fit until the boys grow bigger. But I am certainly still interested in the No. 1 for myself.
 
I've got the No 1 RSI in .243 and definitely had it scoped, as I plan on using it for pronghorn, so far I've found it to be very accurate using the Sierra 100grn. BT SP as it will shoot less than a MOA out to 300 yards, however I don't plan on shooting out to 300 yards it is nice to know I could if worse came to worse for a trophy. I've used the Ruger mounts and a Leopold Rifleman scope and it gives me plenty of eye relief.
 
You state you may need to take longer shots. Not sure why you want to go without any optics. Is the area so open the game stands broadside in broad daylight against contrasting backgrounds? Wondering bout your preference for 30 30 also. It is a good cartridge , but, trajectory really starts to fade after 150 to 200 yards depending on the bullet. Maybe you need to define what you are looking for a bit better. Not an insult just a suggestion.

That's true with typical tube-magazine loads. But the single-shot is not limited to flat nosed bullets or by magazine length. The 30-30 case can fit over 30 grains of powder and with 168 gr. TTSX I believe it could be loaded to a MV of at least 2200 fps and still be within the low SAAMI pressure limits for 30-30, which I do not believe the No. 1 is limited to (why would the .30-30 be any weaker than the -06?). At my altitude with a 100 yard zero, it would drop less than 7 inches at 200 yards and 18 inches at 275 yards. Not bad at all. And that bullets expands at 1800 fps which would make it good for 275 yards. But I wouldn't shoot at game that far with open sights. At 200 yards, the ballistics are solid.

A 30-40 Krag, .308, or .30-06 would offer more range indeed but I'm not likely to use it with open sights and like I wrote, I'm something of a minimalist. I have scoped rifles, but the austerity of the No. 1 is what's appealing.
 
I'd also need to get the corresponding unusual eye relief. I hadn't thought of that, but with the Ruger rings I can see how inflexible it would be.
It's not the ring setup that makes it hard - it's the fact that the falling block design has no rear receiver ring onto which you can mount an optic ring. The result is that the optics mount winds up being further forward than on most any other style of rifle, and you either need to find a really long scope or a scope with above-average eye relief.

I actually ran my #1 in 30-06 with an IER / scout scope for a while, until I got tired of not being able to get either a proper cheek weld nor a replacement buttstock that didn't cost as much as the gun and simply sold it to someone who would love it more than I did.
 
Good grief, you’re all over the place with your reasoning. I’m a No.1 owner and shooter and the first thing I would tell you is stop looking at replacing a stock or cutting down a stock. The No.1 is a classic rifle that has bee flirting with being completely eliminated for several years now due to poor sales. Don’t chop up a perfectly good No.1 stock. Just don’t do it!

Secondly, you seem overly worried about accuracy of various models and then say that you’ll likely be shooting open sights. The accuracy concern is a moot point in that case because the biggest limiting factor will be your open sights on the gun and not the accuracy of the gun itself. Any No.1 will shoot better than you, while using open sights.

Thirdly, if you’re looking for a short length of pull, or a short overall length handy rifle, you need to be looking at a TC Contender Carbine or TC Encore rifle. Perfect for young shooters and a lot cheaper than a No.1.
 
FWIW

Ruger makes offset rings that allow the scope to be positioned back a bit.
EGW makes picatinny rail that replaces the quarter rib.
EABCO sells an adapter for the quarter rib (picatinny that goes on top of quarter rib).

There used to be a 2 pc base that went back a bit, replaced the quarter rib (hard to find).

I have not tried the EGW or EABCO. I think the EABCO to not be very good looking.
Dunno how the multi slot of the EGW would hurt the looks of the #1.

The old quarter rib ring spacing worked well with older scopes.
I had a #1B from the 70's and ran a Leupold 3-9XAO in reg rings.

Had a #1 RSI and had to use a rear offset ring when using an old Leupold M8 4X.

Not much, just a tiny bit back.......but when wearing a coat hunting in the cold......a little less stock crawling was nice on my old aching neck.

Reportedly the old red pad #1's could be spotty on accuracy.
My 70's era B model .243 was sub .5 MOA.
My 85 RSI also in .243 cloverleafed them at 75 yards ( hey it only had a 4X).

Supposedly the newer models have better barrels (Ruger made).
Back in the old days the varmint and heavy hitters seemed to be the safer bets.
Standard deer cartridge offerings seemed to be the more risky buy.

Some shot well. Some did not..........even after much handload testing.
My poor coworker got a couple of lemons.

This was before the Hicks accurizer. And no, the barrels are not freefloating.
Never have been.
One supposedly can mod them for lesser forend pressure, maybe even freefloat.

Know some folks with $ and they had their problematic #1's rebarrelled w premium stuff from top builders.
And they were happy with the results.
Sub MOA hunting rifles they had.

On the shortened #1..............one can occassionally find used buttstocks for sale.
My dad got one for his #3...........at a semi local gun show. one ding, not horrible, complete..........$150.
Not the most figuring, but actually a couple of nice stripes.

Seen similar fetch 250 on some auction sites.
 
Not the most horrible looking rifle.
I sold it.
For a couple of reasons.

The RSI has a 20" bbl. Blast was a bit annoying.
Think the rifle looks better w a 22" bbl (and in "A" config vs "RSI")
Personally I don't like the looks of the longer 24" A models, or the even longer intermediate sporters.
The .44 mag and .460 stuff, have 20" bbls, and A style forends.........look too stumpy to my eyes.

Like the looks of the 26" B models though, best looking IMHO.

Really like a falling block on a deer rifle, had a TC Contender Carbine before the #1 and while it worked
fine, just don't like a break open rifle for deer.

Hunted the following year and the opening weekend was a monsoon. Not the best time to be afield with a
full stock walnut rifle. Our little deer spot also has a nasty creek bottom, and doing a push, or trying to sneak
in it........puts a nice stock at some risk of ding and dent.

I really wanted another #1, spoke of it several times on this forum.............but went w a synth bolt gun.
Still love the #1...........just have gotten too practical and too accident prone to take a nicer rifle afield.

OK, 3rd reason I sold that #1 RSI...............look at how bland that stock is.
Worst one I ever saw on a #1...............zero figure LOL

View attachment 839907
 
From the pic you'll see the turret body just slighty back into the offset.
The following yr I moved it back even more.
Maybe 1/8" or so.
Usable obviously in the position I had it (in the pic)........but coyote hunting one day, bundled..............and looking hard turn.........it was painful to get an image. Really had to crane my neck.
And I have a bad neck.
So yeah, just a little shift in position can make quite a diff in comfort.
 
The angle of the #1 grip gives the rifle a different feel than most bolt action folks are used to.
I like it.
The wrist is thin too.
Kind of shotgun like.

Definitely handle one before buying.
One can get used to a different feel.............sometimes.

I just put my target 10/22 up for sale at my LGS due to the Victor Titan stock (nice stock).........having a vertical grip that i could not warm up to.
Tolerated off the bench, but carrying/hunting...................HATED it.

Like me a #1 stock's grip very much.

CZ bolt rig..........handled at LGS today.............hated the wrist of that stock.
 
#3 doesn't have the quarter rib with two spaces for proprietary Ruger rings.

Weaver bases for #3 nowadays might not be too common, but offset rings for them (if needed) are.

Offset rings for Rugers........even my pretty high volume LGS didn't have them in stock, had to order them.

Note: the new torx style rings are slightly wider at the ring "ears" than the old slotted screw rings.
While the heights are the same, safe to mix and match old/newer..............if you have OCD you'll want to run either slotted pair, or torx pair.
 
I don't know what base types available for the #3. All I saw were single slotted, took two pcs and were not offset.
Gunsmith could make an offset base easier for a #3 than a quarter rib for #1.
Way cheaper too.
 
My shooting partner and I together have five Number One's. There is not a cull in the bunch. All are good shooters. The most finicky in the lot is my Number One A. To me,the real problem with Number One's has to do with having to crawl the stock using using factory rings. This can be a serious problem with my Number One H in 375 H&H. Unless there has been a change factory offsets are not much help. I'm tempted to be skeptical about some of the accuracy problems described on the net. The problem mounting some, not all scopes is real.

Addendum: The main offender in the day was Leupold. The location of the turrets located the scope too far forward on the Number One. Hence, the offset factory rear ring allowed the scope to be drawn further to the rear. I have personally had this problem with several generations of Leupold and one older Burris. These problems have to do with eye relief and where the turrets are located. The problem is more noticeable shooting off hand than from a rest.
 
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My dad was a Ruger Collector.
His is the second owner of a B model (first version).
The original owner had it sent back to Ruger because it would not shoot, Ruger rebarreled it.
Factory ammo was not good.
Didn't take much work to find a load it liked.

Buddy had the two lemons, IIRC one was a B in .280 rem.
Due to the laws of discussion and time, one bad thing can morph into several.

I've had two #1's. Both in .243 and both good shooters.

There were bad shooters out there. Maybe not all of that due to barrel issues.
Dunno how many had other problems thought to be bad barrel.

Another bud got an A model and sent it off for "timing" of the trigger system.
Said it was a one holer after that.

Redpads the ones I've heard to be a roll of the dice.
No bad reports on blackpads.

Unfortunately, the wood color on the blackpads doesn't have the reddish/amber tones.
To me THAT is part of being a #1.

Custom dark stocks, or factory new mudwater colors..........even if of outstanding figure..........just don't look right.
 
My RSI had no red/gold.......and was straight grained and red pad.
Proly why I got a good deal on it.

I'd still like a redpad w good wood, A model, in .243 win.
Unless it's a known shooter I won't buy it.
For deer, not chucks.............don't need .5 MOA.
 
I saw a like new B in .243 win with killer figure fore and aft.
But it was a blackpad and looked like muddy coffee in color.
What a shame.
 
i've owned numerous Ruger #1 rifles since they came on the market. In days gone by i had trouble scoping those rifles. The scopes back then were shorter or something. Have not had trouble scoping a #1 rifle in many years.

Currently own three Ruger #1 rifles. This is my 9.3X62 mm with a Leupold VX-3 with 40mm lens.

<a href="https://imgur.com/B9n5Jxz"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/B9n5Jxz.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>



The other two rifles wear Leupold FX-3 six power scopes.
 
On the scope issue, one of mine has a Burris scope with the turret offset that works really good and is a good quality scope. I don't think they make them like that anymore though, I probably set that up 20 years ago.
 
I have had scope mounting problems related to mounting both Leupold's and an older Burris 50mm 3-9x50. A shooting partner of mine set up a Number One using a Leupold base and rings for the Number One. Might be worth checking out. I'm not crazy about the factory rear off set ring. I had to use Burris rings for the Number One B for that 50mm Burris scope. This scope deal does not discourage me from considering another Number One.

Handling: It's hard to tell somebody how a rifle feels. I would be great for OP to be able to handle one of the rifles. For me, the rifles including the 375 H&H to feel and point well. The Number One A is the best of the lot. That's subjective, of course, an may not be in any way useful or helpful in making a choice.
 
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