Runout - causes & cures

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ArtP

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Using a Sinclair runout gauge, I've discovered some issues and I can't seem to solve the problem. This is the first time I've ever measured runout.

I've got 100 pieces of Win brass that have been fired three times.
Because I changed rifles, I FL sized all of this brass. Lee FL die.
About 20% of the brass, measured mid-neck has runout of .005 or greater, a handful at .009-.010.
I took the worst pieces and neck sized them with the collet die - absolutely no change.
I took the same worst pieces, with the decapper/expander ball removed and re-sized - FL. Now acceptable runout of .003 or less.
I disassembled and thoroughly cleaned the die, put the expander/decapper back in, re-sized again, runout back to original .009-.010.
I checked the neck thickness for variation, which is difficult to do accurately with standard calipers, and best I can tell there is no more than .001-.0015 variation within the case neck.

Is there a way to correct this brass with unacceptable runout? Is this to be expected with WW/RP/FC brass, that 20% will be beyond .004? Any guesses what is causing the runout on certain cases?

Some other findings... Measuring a different caliber made from Lapua brass, empty cases or loaded cases, the vast majority are .002 or under (only neck-sized with collet). Measuring factory ammo from one manufacturer, most are close to .010, another manufacturer 70% are .04 or less with the rest being between .005-.009.
 
Good morning
Redding makes Bench Rest Quality resizing dies. So do most the other companies. The dies will cost more than most reloaders are willing to pay just to pop off some rounds. But the end results will be a precision centered expander that properly aligns to the precision cut interior of the die.
So having the proper resizer you can outside neck uniform your brass. Sinclair & others sell a handy hand cutter that will uniform the outside of the brass neck to exacting tolerances.
I know some fellers who will shoot all afternoon using just one perfectly fitted case that is properly indexed into a near perfect chamber properly aligned in a near perfect bore. They shoot at a pin pong balls mounted on a board at 300 meters. Case is neck sized only. Deprimed with a special aligned decapping pin and mallet. Reloaded at the bench.
Mike in Peru
 
I purchased a sinclair concentricity guage last year and was amazed at how much run out I had also. Some of my reloads would shoot very good even with a bit of runout which I suppose was due to the fact that they were seated out far enough that the was almost no bullet jump.

I started lubing my necks as I read that the expander may be causing some of the problems. It may have helped a bit , but not as much as I had hoped. After doing much research I purchased a Redding Type S sizing die, a Redding Competition neck sizing die, and their Competition seating die. I also get their neck thickness measuring tool.

The end result was very good. I found that the finished loaded cartridge with a neck deviation of less than .0015 had next to no bullet runout. The smaller this measurement is the less runout I have. After much experimentation, I now chuck all casings with more neck thickness deviation than that. I stopped buying Reminton and Winchester brass and get either Norma or Lapua. I was generally chucking more than half of the Rem and Win brass after checking neck thickness, not to mention the fact that when you square up the necks, most of the time you have trimmed .005 shorter than the trim to length measurement.

The Redding dies are a bit expensive, but my runout problems have for the most part non exisistant now. After firing the brass one time I take the guts out of the FL die and use it as a body die to set the shoulders back .002 followed by checking neck thickness. At that point I can select the right bushing and size the neck down for the right bullet tension. I do that and then trim and end up not using an expander at all. Generally the worst bullet runout that I have may be .002 with an occasional one worse which I mark for foul shots.

As I said these dies are a bit expensive and I bought 3 dies each for 16 calibers. If I were to do it again knowing what I know now, I think some money can be saved buying sets instead of the individual dies although I am a FFL and managed to save a bit of money. I guess the saying that if you want to dance to the music, you have to pay it to the piper, comes into play here. I have no regrets at all going this route

I would recommend checking out the Redding website, reading especially the tech tip section about runout. You will find it very enlightening. Feel free to email me if you have any unanswered questions. You will find that the tech guys at Redding are also very helpfull and patient, as well as being more than happy to answer any questions you may have.

Hope this helps and good luck
 
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I have one Lee 30-06 die that no matter how I adjust it, play with the spindle, the run out is horrible. My Lee .223 and 308 die were excellent.

Still there maybe an aggravating factor, and that is case lube.

I lube the inside of my case necks then tumble my brass, in a can, with a patch saturated with RCBS water soluble case lube. It is an easy way to lube 100 or 200 cases. However the entire case is coated in lube. Sometimes more lube, sometimes less.

I measured case neck run out after sizing, those cases which I had wiped the case lube off the neck/shoulder before sizing had greatly reduced case neck run out. I don’t know why, but it seems to work for my dies. I have Lyman small base, and RCBS small base, and this also worked with the Lee dies in 223 and 308.
 
QuarterMaster:

Thanks for the time spent writing up your experience. I don't think I'm ready to spend the money yet on Redding "S" dies. It's rare I need to FL size, and I've done a fair amount of reading comparing the really cheap Lee collet and the Redding "S". There are a lot of formidable reloaders who prefer the collet, regardless of money. Lots of Redding faithful guys too.

What I'm inclined to try is to turn my Lee FL die into a body sizer by removing the expander, use it, followed by the collet die. That is for those times I need more than a simple neck size. I'm just baffled that I can apparently eliminate runout this way, but then re-create runout with the stem back in the die - this only on specific pieces of brass. Its the "specific pieces of brass" that has me so baffled. If it can be eliminated, why does it come back, only with this brass?

Since my collet die appears to neither add or remove runout, another option is to use a Redding FL sizer with the Lee collet neck sizer. The .243 Lapua brass that measures so nicely has never been FL sized, it's only seen the collet die.
 
I have one Lee 30-06 die that no matter how I adjust it, play with the spindle, the run out is horrible.

If I got consistent bad results with one FL size die, I'd blame the die and move on. I just can't figure out why it apparently works so nicely with one piece of brass then so poorly with another (mostly works effectively).

I am using One-Shot lube, sparingly, just before a FL size, no lube on neck sizing.
 
Where is neck runout to be measured? Is it at the middle, closest to the shoulder or closest to the mouth? I've been measuring at the middle of the neck.

In my mind, with an exaggerated case, the measurement would be different, based on where it's measured.
 
Do you know its Possible to Outside Neck Turn & Still use Standard Dies.

Sinclair-Case Prep Steps to Minimize Run-Out



The first steps that can be taken are in your case prep regiment. One of the first areas to look into with new brass is to check neck wall thickness consistency. You are looking for cases that have case necks that have fairly consistent thickness around the diameter. Using a tool such as the Sinclair Case Neck Sorting Tool (Part # 59-1000) can quickly help you determine the consistency of the thickness of the neck walls. Standard brass may have a thickness variance as much as one to two thousandths of an inch. Higher quality brass will have a more consistent neck wall thickness with little or no variance. Inconsistent neck wall thickness can cause bullet run-out since different pressures are applied to the diameter of the seated bullet. Either sort through and cull your brass for consistent walls or perform a “cleaning cut” by neck turning the difference in consistency off the necks of the entire lot to create common consistency. (Neck turning is a whole other cup of tea and will be discussed in future features).

Other areas of case prep that can make a difference in bullet run-out is to maintain consistent case length and trim when needed, lightly inside chamfer and outside de-burr the case mouths. I prefer the Sinclair 28 degree “VLD” inside case mouth chamfering tool (Part # 26-6250) for most of my rifle and even pistol case prep. Additionally clean out and wipe off the necks of the cases once prep time is finished.

Sizing Steps to Minimize Run-Out

One of the most common steps in the reloading process that contributes to bullet run-out occurs is the sizing operation. If improper techniques are used or there are issues with the sizing die set up, a once perfectly concentric case can become out of whack. By using the proper dies for your application, properly setting up the die/shell holder or floating the de-capping/expander assembly, you can eliminate problems before they happen.

The choice sizing die by many of us on the technical staff is the Redding Type-S series of dies. These are full-Length or neck sizing dies that utilize a removable/changeable neck bushing (sold separately) to size the neck according to your application. These dies are machined with true precision and quality in mind. The Type-S dies come with a standard de-capping assembly with a caliber specific expander ball in place. In addition to this an undersized retainer to hold the de-capping pin is included with the die. In my experience with these dies I use the standard expander ball with new, unfired brass on the initial re-size. I will then use the undersized retainer in place of the expander ball with brass that has been fired. I have found this step crucial in my reloading regiment to minimize bullet run out. The use of the expander ball can cause a few thousandths of run-out when the case is being pulled back out of the sizing die. With the undersized retainer in place the only thing that touches the neck of the case in sizing is the bushing. If you prefer to use an expander ball, Redding offers caliber specific carbide floating expander balls that fit on the de-capping rod. This free floating expander ball will self center on the case neck, and reduce the amount of run-out that can be caused by a standard expander ball.

When setting up a Type-S sizing die, set the neck bushing into the die with the numbers facing down toward the body of the die. Tighten the de-capping assembly until it contacts the bushing and then back it off ¼ of a turn. This allows the bushing to free float in the die. You should be able to hear the bushing rattle if you shake the die. Having the bushing free floating self centers the neck, and again minimizes any run-out that can occur.

If you prefer other brands of sizing dies there are a few tricks that people use to minimize run-out as well. Many reloaders claim that the use of an “O”-ring at the base of the de-capping assembly lock nut will float the assembly and help self center during sizing. Another trick that has been used is to remove the retaining pin on the shell holder slot on the press ram, and use an “O”- ring in its place to hold the shell holder in place. This allows the shell holder to self center during sizing as well.

Seating Steps to Minimize Run-Out

Another common step in the reloading process where bullet run-out can be caused is in the bullet seating process. The first thing you can do is to use a high quality die with a sliding sleeve. The sliding sleeve perfectly aligns the case with the bullet to be seated. Good examples of these dies are the Redding Competition Micrometer bullet seating dies, Forster Ultra Seaters, or RCBS Competition Seating dies. All of these dies utilize a micrometer top to precisely set seating depth. They are all very high quality dies that have tight tolerances to maximize bullet straightness during seating.

Of the many questions we receive most of the callers are trying to seat long pointed bullets such as the Berger VLD or Hornady A-Max. One problem that the reloader faces with longer bullets is that they are so long that the standard seating die stem (the part that pushes the bullet into the case) is not machined deep enough to contact these bullets properly. The point of the bullet is “bottoming out” in the stem and the result is off center seating and/or rings and dents on the bullet nose. What should be done if you plan on using such bullets, is to purchase a “VLD” style seating stem, which is cut to accommodate the longer bullets. The use of this stem results in truer seating of the bullet without leaving a ring or marring the tip of the bullet.

Besides using a traditional press and threaded seating die another great way to get a true bullet seat is by using an arbor press and Wilson chamber type seating die. These dies are cut to very tight tolerances and have proven themselves for years as the main choice for bench rest enthusiasts. The design of the die positively aligns the case with the bullet as they are both captured by the die before the bullet is pushed straight into the case by the stem. These seating dies are available with the standard seating cap and stem or an additional micrometer top can be added for precise adjustment. Wilson also offers a stainless seating die with an integral micrometer seating head. This process is quick, true, and a great way to get the most out of your reloading!

Finally another trick used by many in the seating process is to turn the case while the bullet is being seated. Some people claim this will keep things straight. What they do is raise the ram in increments while seating and rotate the case in the shellholder in increments of 90 degrees from the original starting while the bullet is being seated. Personally I have tried this and have seen no significant difference at all. However you may be the judge of this one. It makes sense, and maybe I should try this a little more before I rule it out.

Bullet Straightening Tools



For those who want to mechanically straighten a loaded round there are a few tools out there that will help you true them up. The Hornady Lock- and- Load Concentricity Gauge (Part #050076) has a straightening feature. The gauge uses a threaded screw that you can tighten down on the bullet and observe how much you have straightened it out on the included dial indicator or how much more adjustment is needed. It can take a little bit of trial and error to get this just right, but it does work. Additionally there are other tools on the market that straighten out bullets. However, one concern that comes up is what are you doing to the neck of the case in terms of neck tension? If any of you have used these types of tool with success please post something on our blog and let your fellow reloaders know. From my experience it is time consuming, and I would rather spend my spare time loading and shooting.
 
The amount of resizing provided by conventional reloading dies has always been dictated by the manufacturing tolerances (SAAMI specifications) of the brass cartridge case itself. Reloading die manufacturers have been forced to design the neck diameter of their dies small enough to accommodate the thinnest possible brass.

This may be as much as .008" - .010" smaller than the maximum cartridge dimensions typically shown in most reloading manuals.

Since the majority of cases that the reloader is likely to encounter in the field are thicker than the minimum specifications that the dies were designed for, case necks are often resized excessively.

It can be easily demonstrated that excessive resizing of the cartridge case quickly leads to stress distortion and concentricity problems. When sizing the neck down more than .008" using bushing, sizing must be done in 2 steps.
 
The amount of resizing provided by conventional reloading dies has always been dictated by the manufacturing tolerances (SAAMI specifications) of the brass cartridge case itself. Reloading die manufacturers have been forced to design the neck diameter of their dies small enough to accommodate the thinnest possible brass.

This may be as much as .008" - .010" smaller than the maximum cartridge dimensions typically shown in most reloading manuals.

Since the majority of cases that the reloader is likely to encounter in the field are thicker than the minimum specifications that the dies were designed for, case necks are often resized excessively.

It can be easily demonstrated that excessive resizing of the cartridge case quickly leads to stress distortion and concentricity problems. When sizing the neck down more than .008" using bushing, sizing must be done in 2 steps.



I think I remember reading what you posted on the Redding site. But thanks for the reminder.

I'm trying to do the best job possible with the tools I currently have. It could change, but today, I'm not interested in buying Redding dies.
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That is where it came from, saves me from typing it over & over & over again. I use Redding bushing dies for the 243win with neck turning. My standard RCBS 243 dies work the brass way to much.
 
In my number nine Speer reloading manual there is a chapter called "Modern Benchrest Reloading Techniques". You have found your problem but the light bulb did not go off.

From "Modern Benchrest Reloading Techniques"

More inaccurate ammunition is reloaded due to the fact that the expander button pulls the necks off center with the axis of the bore. The act of tightening the lock nut on the decaping rod can cause it to be moved off center and thus inducing neck runout.

There are two cures.

1. Leave the jam nut loose on the decaping rod and with a case in the die allow the press handle with light pressure to just start to enter the base of the neck. This will center the decaping rod with the case and "then" tighten the lock nut with light centering force applied.

2. Place rubber o-rings under the die lock ring and under the decaping rod lock nut finger tight, the rubber o-ring allows the die to "float" and be self centering along with the decaping rod.

NOTE: if the cartridge case has unequal case wall thickness when the case is fired it will expand more on one side. When this case is full length resized compressing the case pushes the base of the case off center and it is no longer 90 degrees to the axis of the bore. These cases are referred to as banana shaped and the run out must be checked at the base of the case. This is a bad problem when firing commercial cases in long fat military chambers where the brass has more room to stretch and warp.
 
The best thing to do is not use the pull through expander type dies for serious target ammo. Even for regular ammo in guns that could never hope to shoot a half MOA group, I use carbide expander buttons to reduce the drag. Between them and using a brush lightly lubed (roll it over a lube pad) it is pretty easy on the necks.

If you insist on using regular expanders, bigedp51 had some good suggestions.
 
In my number nine Speer reloading manual there is a chapter called "Modern Benchrest Reloading Techniques". You have found your problem but the light bulb did not go off.

From "Modern Benchrest Reloading Techniques"

Ahhhhh!!

What you just described sounds very plausible. When I FL size, even with consistent lubing, the effort to bring the case out of the die varies. I've never felt comfortable with that, knowing I could be stretching, misshaping or bending my cases.

I took some of the worst brass .007-.009, body sized (no expander), got runout down to .001 (!) but of course the necks are too small to go into the collet die decapper without so much force that I feel I'm causing more damage (even with lube). After the collet size, runout is back to .005. This is certainly not a method worth perusing as it's working the brass way too much for very little gain.

I'm going to cull the worst pieces. I'm also going to take your advice for how to center the expander button. I also think it might be prudent to accept these results knowing the right combination of off-center expander and case neck thickness is probably the root of the problem.

Thanks for your thoughts bigedp51! Learning more in depth techniques is as much fun as shooting the finished product.
 
Another question if I may

I'm not exactly sure how to measure. In your mind, if you can imagine a case with exaggerated runout, as it spins in the gauge, I get a low and high reading. It would seem to me the difference should be divided by two to get the runout from the center-line axis. If this doesn't make sense I can draw it, scan and post. The runout numbers I've been posting are the variance between low and high, not necessarily the variance between high and center-line.

In the instruction pamphlet that came with the tool, it suggests runout should be no more than .003 or .004. After setting aside the worst 15 cases of 100, the median runout is about .004, measuring from high to low.
 
http://www.accurateshooter.com/ has some very good technical articles on loading for accuracy and you can pick the brains of some noted competitive shooters in the forum.

http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/reloading/o-rings-on-dies-may-reduce-run-out/

http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/reloading/how-to-load-more-concentric-ammo/

http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/reloading/complete-precision-case-prep/

Cheap accuracy, Lee Collet dies. ;)

Even cheaper accuracy, a Lee Loader and a plastic hammer. :banghead:
(if you break wind and it sounds like a silent dog whistle you know your really cheap) :D

When these two dies above give you less run-out than FL dies with a expander button you know your doing something wrong. ;)

NOTE: Factory loaded ammunition can have as much as .010 to .015 run-out, sometimes reloaded ammunition can be even more, and .001 or less run-out is considered to be needed for bench rest accuracy.

Comparison of the Lee Collet neck die and the Hornady neck die with a decaping rod and expander button.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZEas38vkKg
 
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ArtP

When I started to measure run out I questioned the Sierra tech guys about how to measue it. It always seemed to me that you should divide the differnece by 2 also, but they told me that the industry standard was the difference.

Run out is very frustrating as you pretty much know in advance that you are not going to shoot as good as you'd like after doing all the work prepping. I don't blame you for not wanting to spend the $ on Redding. If in fact, some of your cases turn out good and some come out lousy, I would think possibly part of your problem may be due to neck thickness variation which can definately attribute to runout. I have been working on some 7 Mag Remington cases that I have had laying around for quite a few years. Upon checking the neck thickness deviation some of them varied as much as .0035 in one casing. I actually called Remington about this and they told me to return them so that they could check the situation out. Out of the 100 I started with, I ended up with less than 1/2 and disguarded the rest. I must admit that I have had some very good batches of Reminton and Winchester brass also. I guess what you get is kind of the luck of the draw, although now I am only buying Norma brass. Pricewise, it might be a bit more, but I get to use them all.

I never hesitate to call tech guys from various manufacturers. The Redding guys tell me that they no longer recommend outside neck turning as they feel that if the neck thickness is off, that they feel it generally runs up through the whole case. Reloading has so many variables. I guess you have to figure things out yourself and do the best you can with what you have. I have been doing it for a long, long time and still learning.

I wish you good luck
 
I disassembled and thoroughly cleaned the die, put the expander/decapper back in, re-sized again, runout back to original .009-.010.

Now you know why so many of us have eliminated the expander ball. My routine is as follows: Deprime with a Universal Decapping die, bump the shoulder back with a body die, and resize the neck for the amount of neck tension I want with a bushing die.

Don
 
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