S & B brass- hard to decap!

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Catpop

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I was sizing/decaping some 45acp brass last night and every time I hit a S & B case I was step stopped cold. I had tap on the Lee decapping rod to get the primer out and put the rod back in place. Anyone else have this problem? By the way its great not to break the decap ping pin in the Lee dies when this happens!
 
On the Lee die, tighten the pin collet a little bit more. You may have to tighten a few times, just go a little each time. Wait till you go to reprime those S&B's! I run 'em through a pocket swager first.
 
I like S&B brass because of the tight pockets. Once I started paying attention I realized I got more reloads from S&B brass. Most of the cases I could no longer reload was because the pockets got sloppy and wouldn't hold a primer....not S&B
 
I like S&B brass because of the tight pockets. Once I started paying attention I realized I got more reloads from S&B brass. Most of the cases I could no longer reload was because the pockets got sloppy and wouldn't hold a primer....not S&B

I don't think its possible to wear out S&B 38special brass. Its the least prone to cracking too. If you use a mild roll or a taper crimp like I do on my DEWC they will go about forever.
 
HUUUUUUUUUUUUGE, NO CRIMP!!! Ok, we'll I guess a trip to Grafs is in order for more 230 Rainier Plated LRN. Not that that was holding it up, but I'm more inclined to do another 2,000 knowing one step is now eliminated.
 
That's why we are talking about S&B brass and not S&B steel. That would be a different topic.

The only reason I made the comment is that steel looks identical to the brass. It's brass plated and can have the same head stamp as the true brass cases. The only way to tell is with a magnet or by the clink sound when dropped or rattled.
 
S&B has good brass with tight tolerances. Sometimes its a "booger" to deprime, sometimes tough to seat the primer; but it works. Isn't it great that every thing is not quite the same :banghead: -keeps us alert.

regards,

:):):)
 
I have noticed that in most calibers they square cut the primer cavity. No chamfer at all around the entrance. They really suck to re-prime.
Yep, I've had to chamfer the mouths of the primer pockets on S&B bras to make primer seating easier...
 
Yep, S&B brass definitely has tight pockets. But I would rather deal with tight pockets that last a bit longer, any day!

GS
 
Yes, S&B primers have a red sealant, no crimp, in all calibers I've seen.

For priming, I like using a Lee Autoprime. They go in quick and easy. No swaging or other stuff needed.

big nugget, What caliber and when did you see steel S&B cases? I've never seen any. Never seen brass plated steel cases in any brand or caliber. Curious.
 
Only S&B brass I reload is 223. Goes thru the decapping process like any other stuff and takes primers just like the others also. I use the Lee priming tool.
 
Yes, S&B primers have a red sealant, no crimp, in all calibers I've seen.

For priming, I like using a Lee Autoprime. They go in quick and easy. No swaging or other stuff needed.

big nugget, What caliber and when did you see steel S&B cases? I've never seen any. Never seen brass plated steel cases in any brand or caliber. Curious.
Only time I've seen brass plated is on 7.62x39. I got so excited at the range picking it up till it looked like it was rusting. Didn't have magnet but had to be coated :(
 
Only time I've seen brass plated is on 7.62x39. I got so excited at the range picking it up till it looked like it was rusting. Didn't have magnet but had to be coated

I have come across lots of S&B 38 special brass that is plated steel. I reload it anyway.
 
I have had good longevity out of S&B brass, primer pockets have always been a hassle. I segregate them and deprime on my Lee Universal decapper, then run through the swager.

Do it once and never have to do it again.
 
Wanna real pain in the butt?

Try priming those tight pockets with Tula primers :eek:
I have to chamfer 'em, but then they last a lllooonnggg time.
 
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