S&W 642: is this a crack?

[v35]

What is this? I can't feel anything with a toothpick, and if it's just normal soiling I have not been able to remove it with Hoppe's and a brush.

The gun is new and has had exactly 30 rounds through it, all Winchester 130 gr target rounds. They are not +P loads, although the barrel is rated for them.

 

[tark]

I would try the old solvent trick. Soak the area with solvent. Kerosine or even Hoppe's will work. Dry the area thoroughly with a rag and Q-tips and wait a few minutes. If that is a crack, the solvent will seep out of it.

 

[Reloadron]

I really can't tell. If you can't remove it with bore solvent and a bronze brush then something is there. I would suggest as tark mentions. Sort of a poor mans dye penetrate inspection or liquid penetrate inspection. A good penetrate oil is Marvel Mystery Oil or mix some ATF (Automatic Transmission Oil) with acetone. I would just go to any auto parts store or even Walmart and get some Marvel Mystery Oil. Thoroughly clean the area with a final clean of isopropanol alcohol. Using some Q-Tips allow the oil to soak into what you believe to be a crack. Then dry the area completely. I would place the gun in about a 125 - 150 degree oven and pat the area with some flour or baking soda. The flour or baking soda serve as a developer. Give it around 15 min and look for oil wicking out into the developer. I like Marvel Mystery Oil only because it is red and easy to see and penetrates well.

Ron

 

[243winxb]

Aluminum Alloy Frame

Gas Cutting, but on a 38 special, not common?? And so few rounds fired, must be dirt??

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[LUCKYDAWG13]

drag a pin across it see if it dips or if you can feel if it's a crack

 

[ChairborneRanger]

Noticed the same thing on my 642 when it was first fired. JB Bore Paste and Kroil, gently rubbed with a Q-Tip type applicator, removed it.

 

[v35]

Using a toothpick I can't feel even the slightest hint of a crack. No evidence using penetrating oil either. Perhaps it's just typically dirty WWB ammo, but I can't seem to clean it either.



If it is a crack, it'll get worse. If it isn't, it won't. With only 30 rounds through it I suppose I'll find out soon enough

 

[38riverrat]

I have a M642 and see similar in the same area.
This is the Aluminum frame and it has some kind of coating or just paint?
On my revolver, it just seems to be "paint" damage in the area where the gas from the BC gap impacts the frame.

Best,
Rick

 

[Shaq]

Try a brass or bronze toothbrush with brush with solvent. If it's still there, you can gently scrape with a dental pick.

 

[rcmodel]

It's an alloy frame as mentioned.

DO NOT scrape on it with the above mentioned items!!!!

Some solvent and careful rubbing with a wood toothpick, or bambo skewer might get it off.

Otherwise?

Fogadaboutit!!

rc

 

[edmo01]

That looks like carbon stains to me... Not a bad thing and nothing to worry about. It is like the stain your revolver will develop on the front of the cylinder.

As rcmodel mentioned, the 642 has an aluminum frame which has a clear coat over it. Be selective on which solvents you use if you decide to remove the stain. You might find some of the harsher solvents might begin to strip away that clear coat.

For cleaning my 642 I use Ballistol. It works well enough for cleaning and keeps the frame's finish intact.

Edmo

 

[RON in PA]

All revolvers are going to have some powder residue in that spot. Don't worry about it.

 

[v35]

It's an alloy frame as mentioned.

DO NOT scrape on it with the above mentioned items!!!!

No worries, I know enough not to use anything metallic. Only a wooden toothpick as I mentioned, and Hoppe's.

Fogadaboutit!!

That's my plan. If it's a crack (which I doubt) it will become obvious in short order.

 

[MIL-DOT]

As others have mentioned, I tend to think it's unlikely that's a crack, though it does look to be further forward and into the corner than where a typical flamecutting mark would be (compare to the above photo posted by 240winxb), but that could be a misperception from the photo angle.
It's also odd that it's unable to be felt by scraping it it, yet it doesn't come off with Hoppe's and a toothbrush.
I don't blame the OP for at least being concerned, but on the positive side, it's a S&W, so they would almost for sure replace the frame (and pay shipping) if it is a crack.

 

[Zaydok Allen]

I doubt it's a crack. Just fouling. Clean it and don't worry.

If it's a crack, you'll know fairly soon, and Smith with replace it I'm sure.

 

[Jim Watson]

Agreed, just a scorch mark burnt into the surface of the aluminum.

The normal location for an Airweight Crack is the bottom of the receiver ring where it is thinnest over the barrel threads.

 

[Shane in MT]

If there is a clearcoat over the aluminum, it might be some carbon tattoing into the layer of clearcoat.

 

[v35]

... it does look to be further forward and into the corner than where a typical flamecutting mark would be (compare to the above photo posted by 240winxb), but that could be a misperception from the photo angle.

It's not a misperception... it is further forward than I would expect from "flamecutting"... in fact I think it's slightly forward of the barrel. It's also biased to the left, which I thought was odd. However, that might be due to the fact that I'm cleaning it from the right side since the open cylinder interferes with accessing that area from the left (edit: actually it doesn't - it's more likely because I'm right handed).

It's also odd that it's unable to be felt by scraping it it, yet it doesn't come off with Hoppe's and a toothbrush.

That's what I thought. Perhaps whatever coating they used for the alloy is just weaker in that area. It's probably just the coating that's burned, not the alloy (edit: like Shane in MT said).

The normal location for an Airweight Crack is the bottom of the receiver ring where it is thinnest over the barrel threads.

Thanks... I did research THR prior to posting and that's what I determined also. Fortunately I'm not finding any indications of that.

This is my first, one and only revolver, and I have a lot to learn about them Love the 642 though. It's absurdly light. Despite what I've read it's fun to shoot too. Challenging though, but I like that!

I realize the resolution of the photo I uploaded isn't so great. Here's one at a higher resolution:

 

[roval]

Try lead remover cloth.

 

[Erich]

Late to the game, but it doesn't look like a crack. I don't believe I've ever seen a crack at that location. This is a typical Al-frame crack on a J-frame (my long-mourned 38-2):

 

[v35]

S&W examined the photos. Decision: not a crack

They didn't say what it is, but they said what it isn't.

 

[Gary A]

I think it is just a mark from the 30 rounds you fired. Not flame cutting but a discoloration from hot gases where flame cutting would occur. I would not worry about it.

 

[Schwing]

To me it looks like there are some rough tool marks there and the fouling from your first few shots just accentuates it a bit.

 

[buck460XVR]

I have the same crack on all of my revolvers!

 

[mr wack]

Just some powder fouling in the machine marks me thinks.
My wifes 642 has it there also,,, I'm not worried,