S&W 686 No-Lock Good Deal?

Buy the 686 at $630 OTD?

  • Yes, just too good to pass up.

    Votes: 18 36.7%

  • Just wait to find a better price or buy a new GP100 for $100 + less!

    Votes: 31 63.3%
  • Total voters
    49
  • Poll closed .
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E

EVIL

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Last night, I found a very nice condition, 6" - S&W 686 no-lock, talked the guy at the LGS down to $630 OTD ... is this a good deal? It seems like equivalents are going for about $750 + on Gunbroker.

To be fair, I had been leaning more towards the GP100 in 6" for my .357 range/load-testing gun. But I don't like to pass up a good opportunity, as my father in law has a 686 and I love to shoot it. I like (& own) both Rugers & Smiths ...so this is not a Ruger vs. Smith thread...mainly I want to know if I should snap it up at this price point.

Should I head over there and buy it? :confused:

Thanks for the help in advance.
 
In my area, I've not seen a used pre-lock 686 for less than $550 (before tax) in over two years. Most are fetching $600 - $650.

It's a good price, assuming good overall condition.
 
I guess it depends on how much not having the lock is worth to you. New 686s around here go for around $675. To me, the lock is a non-issue as compared to having a new gun and a guaranteed lifetime warranty for only $45 more. If it's a 686-5, it still has the "dreaded" MIM parts:rolleyes:, even tho it has no lock. BTW...MIM parts are a non-issue to me also.
 
mainly I want to know if I should snap it up at this price point.
Click to expand...

I would say no to "snap it up".

The condition would have to be great...and even then...

GP100's are 100$ less NEW in my area, never can go wrong with a new gun, used can be slightly risky at times.

Hmmm.. OTD that isn't bad. might not be a bad choice!
 
I wouldn't use Gunbroker as a price guide. The prices there always seem to be too high.

I guess $650 OTD isn't all that bad even though around here the same gun would go for ~$75-$100 less. I would rather have a no-lock M686 than a GP100 but that's only my opinion since there is nothing at all wrong with the Ruger...
 
EVIL said:
Last night, I found a very nice condition, 6" - S&W 686 no-lock, talked the guy at the LGS down to $630 OTD ... is this a good deal? It seems like equivalents are going for about $750 + on Gunbroker.

To be fair, I had been leaning more towards the GP100 in 6" for my .357 range/load-testing gun. But I don't like to pass up a good opportunity, as my father in law has a 686 and I love to shoot it. I like (& own) both Rugers & Smiths ...so this is not a Ruger vs. Smith thread...mainly I want to know if I should snap it up at this price point.

Should I head over there and buy it? :confused:

Thanks for the help in advance.
Click to expand...
Only if it has SEVEN-shot cylinder. I prefer 'King Cobra' to both S&W and Ruger it's the KOOL name thing.
 
the "Colt" name all by itself was plenty cool enough, methinks !
the logo, too
(others went & ruined the trendy 'KOOL naming' thing for me, I guess)

but as to OP question, if very means what I guess it means and if OTD means what I guess it means, yes, I would do the 686 for $630

by the way, what are very nice Cobra's going for these days "OTD" ?
(they be scarce as hen's teeth, locally)
 
I haven't been shopping for L-frames for a couple of years and am a little shocked by the prices mentioned in this thread. Things have changed a lot in a short time.

I think that internet forums tend to reinforce "bird in the hand" impulse buying at the cost of comparison shopping. It's easy for us to spend your money and talk about each individual gun as if it were personally crafted for you.

The 686 is an excellent revolver but it is not rare--it's been in continuous production for 30 years. There are tons of them out there, the majority "pre lock" and "pre MIM" if that's important to you. The gun you're describing is not new in the box nor does it have one of the more desirable barrel lengths. I am confident that with a little patience you can still find a 686 for less.

Besides, if $630 is genuinely what these things actually sell for now than, no, you're not getting a good deal. You're just paying the going rate.
 
Last edited:
If it is in close to like new condition and wearing the original grips, I would call it a fair deal....I was recently offered a 6" 686 for $500. I thought it was a decent price, but am not a S&W guy so I let it pass by.
 
setting prices is a subjective thing, best thing to do is see what others are going for. As much as possible "all things equal". the following auction is half way through at 500.00;

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=278586140

The bottom line ends up being what are you willing to pay for the "bird in the hand".

P.S I personally would value the 686 no lock above a GP100, not all would do the same.
 
How can you tell if a S&W has a lock or if it is prelock?
Click to expand...

If you look at the photo posted by cemjr (directly above your post), you will see a small dark circular hole (cut into the frame) directly above the revolver's cylinder release thumb latch . That hole is for insertion of a key to lock/unlock modern S&W lock equipped revolvers.

A hole above the thumb latch = Lock Equipped

No hole = Pre-Lock
 
maskedman504 said:
How can you tell if a S&W has a lock or if it is prelock?
Click to expand...

The pimple hole on the sideplate just above the cylinder release. I don't remember the exact year of introduction, but most S&Ws made in the past 10 years (less I believe) have this "feature".

As to the OP's question, I went to $500 OTD for my 4" 586 no-dash a few weeks ago. Prices on used anything have gone absolutely crazy lately. I still shake my head at the prices I see on used Model 10s with the "pinned" barrel. Never mind there are millions of them in circulation. And N-frames? Insanity ensues; last gunshow I was at I saw a 4" M-28 marked at $699.99! :what:

I might go $575-600 OTD for a clean 686, just because the stainless steel models tend to grab more money than the blued versions. $630 might not be horrible in your area. I like the phrase I've seen, "It's not overpriced, just purchased too soon."

(Still holding out for a 4" pencil barrel M-10, an M-15 and an M-36 or 37. And an affordable N-frame .357. Kicking myself over a 6.5" M-27 for $550 and a clean-looking M-37 at $325. And the M-15 I saw a few years ago also at $325. Or the M-28 at $499. Okay, decent deals ARE out there, you just have to be ready to grab them when you spot them.)
 
Thanks for all the responses guys, I think I am going to "let this one go." Some really good insights here, so I am glad it slept on it, rather than running to the ATM to get the extra few bucks he wanted. (I called yesterday to see if it had sold...it hadn't and he isn't open today.) If I could have talked him down below $590 (tax included) I think I would have bit...but he wanted $590 + tax.

OBTW, It did not have original grips - it had after market ones (looked like Hogue). I almost always re-grip all my revolvers to "grip contoured wood" anyways - I just like that style - so the grips weren't a deal-breaker for me. The bore & cylinders were immaculate, and the finish was probably close to 98% - I wish I had snapped a picture.

I think I am just going to wait and spot a GP-100 when I find a good deal locally - though these are hard(er) to find in the 6" length. I already have a .357 SP 101 so I am not hard pressed.
 
When you consider that the current production 686's are going for around $700.......the asking price of $590, for a pre lock 686, is not bad at all IMO.

If you like that pre lock 686, buy it. With the current production guns driving up the price of the older superior revolvers, its not likely you will find a pre lock 686 for much less than $550 anytime soon.

Good luck with your decision! :) TJ
 
To me, if you were willing to pay $590, what is another $40 if this is the gun configuration you are really after. A little more than a box of ammo and you are at the higher number. I am all for getting a good deal, but I don't see used 686 around here very often. I think I payed $620 for a non-lock 629-4 and am happy paying that much for a gun like that in very good condition. I know N-frames go for more when new, but they are really worth about the same to me once I have them (hard to pick a favorite).
 
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