S&W from 70s

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robert45

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Hello,

In my country 99% we shoot semi autos... however a friend of mine recently bought an old S&W revolver for a few bucks ... I was immedietly impresed by quality of the product, which could be easily compared with semi coustom pistols costing 3000€....

The point is that with older hunters passing away.... there are a lot of these revolvers that can be found very cheap...

so I am in the market for an S&W from 70s, having no clue abot revolvers, I would appriciate any input on which models to look for?

thanks
 
Greetings and welcome. :)

That's a terrific but really open ended question -- so many great revolvers to consider.

Personally, I'd look for: Model 10 and 64 heavy barrels in the 2, 3, and 4" inch varieties; Model 19 and 66 2.5"; and Model 27 3.5"...but there are an incredible number of potential suggestions.

What would be your intended use? That'll help narrow suggestions down...
 
Another consideration is the Ammo avalibility for the revolver you are considering.
In some countries, you cant find Revolver ammo except .32 Long
 
The Model 14 Smith and Wesson was, at one time, dominant in bullseye shooting. They have 6 inch barrels (usually) and adjustable sights. The pre-model name for this gun was the K-38 Masterpiece, and it was often referred to this even after it was called the Model 14. It's in .38 Special, and usually very accurate, if in good condition. Prices have gone up, but you might find one cheap. Even at realistic prices they aren't too bad. If you want one with a 4 inch barrel, get a model 15. Both of these guns are sometimes called the best .38 revolvers S&W ever made.

As the other post said, you might have more luck finding a model 10. Go to the sticky on this forum or to the S&W forum for details, but well used/carried guns are often still very good shooters. Look at lockup and cylinder gap and bore for the guns condition rather than finish or scratches. But don't pay a lot for a scratched up gun. Good luck.
 
There are certainly many choices. What will be the primary use of the revolver as this would dictate what I would buy?
 
You don’t say what country you’re in, so as far as any Smith & Wesson revolver is concerned, there are only two things to consider; 1, the condition of the gun, and 2. A caliber for which ammunition is available. Other than that, any Smith & Wesson revolver is good to go.
 
thank you guys for your input....

I am buying the gun for range shooting

ammo is not an issue

older revolvers being quite rare and me being quite young (early 30s) I was very surprised, when I have seen this revo, I think it is model 27, it had perfect finish .....astonishing blued revolver

work related I am a lot in Germany... generaly speaking ... here in EU we pay almost twice as much for guns compared to US... however in germany this revolvers are being sold for 300€ in excelent condition, 350 with original box

so you are saying 14, 27, K-38... so far I have seen only 27

generally speaking I dont buy a lot of stuf but when I do I buy top end... my filosofy is beter having one gun for 3000 rather than 3 for 1000
 
You have an excellent philosophy.

As for which one to buy, let's break it down a little.
The J frame S&Ws are the small frames. They are lighter, smaller, and only hold 5 shots (in .38spl and .357mag). They are great for concealed carry, and can even be fun at the range but they are not really range guns.

K frames are the "duty" sized frame. They were carried by cops starting with the pre-model 10s (.38 hand ejector) that came out in 1899 and going all the way until most police agencies changed over to semi-auto in the 1980s and 90s. There is a reason they were the standard. They carry nicely, are heavy enough to be recoil friendly at the range, tend to be very accurate, and are overall nicely proportioned guns.
You could do a LOT worse than a K frame for a range gun. For range use, i'd think .38spl and adjustable sights might be nice, so I'd look for a Model 15 (blued), or Model 67(stainless). You can shoot .38spl in a .357mag, so also consider the Model 66 (stainless) and model 19 (blued). I have a model 19 that I adore. Probably not an issue for range usage, but don't shoot too many .357magnum loads with light bullets in any .357mag k frames. They aren't built for it and you can crack forcing cones. They will take endless amounts of .38spl though, and you're not likely to shoot much .357magnum for range use anyway so it's a non-issue, and do not take this to mean that K frames are weak. They are not. They can handle heavy bullet .357mag just fine.

The fix to the magnum issue (if you even want to call it that) in K frames, was the L frame. It's slightly beefier, and has many of the advantages of the K frame, but in a slightly stronger frame. They are newer, having been introduced in the 1980s, so you won't find one from the era that you're looking for, but if you see a nice older model 586 or 686, it's worth a good look. They are fantastic range and duty guns.

Next up, we have the N frames. They are the large frames. They are built for cartridges like the .44magnum and .45LC. Big thumper rounds. They are overbuilt for a .38//357.
The model 27 you saw fits into this category. The up side of them is that even with a diet of heavy loads, they will outlast you and your grandchildren. The weight also keeps recoil very minimal. The down side is that holding out all the weight in front of you can fatigue you during extended range sessions, and I find that they aren't as nimble or quick to the target as the K/L frame guns because of their weight. The weight is very steady, but the tradeoff is speed (at least for me).

Ultimately, it's really up to you obviously, but this is a very very basic primer. There are LOTS of models i did not mention and lots of info about each frame size that I left out. This is only the most basic of info to give you a springboard for your research. Get out there and snag a classic revolver, and when you do, take pictures, come back here, and brag about it. We want to hear how you do!
 
19-3Ben thank you very much for your detailed post

from the photos, indeed I like very much the 19 .... it's a harmonious, not too bulky revolver.... however browsing the web I found that it doesent handle very good powerful magnum cartridges ( as you also mentioned).... this is for me a non issue as I will use revolver for the load it was designed for, however I woudnt like to buy 357 gun and being limited to 38 sp... what do you feed it with?
 
I would add that for range use, a model 14 in 38spl (a K-frame) is the centerfire revolver I would recommend. It came in 6 inch and 8 inch barrels, with adjustable sights. The model 15 is much the same, but with a shorter barrel.

On the other hand, I love the large frame (N-frame) revolvers. A few years ago, a model 28 could be had for very cheap. However, all the N-frame revolvers are expensive now, although not much more than the k-frames.

It is a great time to collect S&W revolvers. A large pool of ex-police revolvers have recently (last fifteen years) been sold on the open market. If you don't mind some external wear, excellent range guns can be had for under $500 US. In addition, many countries in South America and some European countries made copies of the S&W revolvers.
 
from the photos, indeed I like very much the 19 .... it's a harmonious, not too bulky revolver.... however browsing the web I found that it doesent handle very good powerful magnum cartridges ( as you also mentioned).... this is for me a non issue as I will use revolver for the load it was designed for, however I woudnt like to buy 357 gun and being limited to 38 sp... what do you feed it with?

The K-frame magnums (models 13, 19, 65, and 66) were designed for heavy bullet 357 loads. If you stick with 158gr projectiles and don't over-presure your handloads, any should last a lifetime.

As my last post, however, I would suggest a medium frame dedicated 38spl revolver for range use (e.g. models 10, 14, 15, 64, and 67).
 
To repeat what has already been expressed,

It is not powerful .357 loads that are to be avoided with the model 19. It is light bullet (125 gr., 110 gr.) high velocity loads that are to be avoided. They were not in use when the 19 was designed and they are almost always at least semi copper jacketed rounds.

Police officers equipped with the 19 commonly practiced with lead rounds and were not always good at keeping the gun free from lead build up. Light high velocity semi-jacketed rounds not only ploughed up the residual lead in front of these rounds increasing pressure, but were also given more hot expanding gas at the same time. The timing and dimensions of these rounds gives more hot gas than the older 158 gr. and above rounds regardless of total energy.

These factors combined to result in police duty weapons experiencing a rash of cracked forcing cones. The forcing cones on Model 19's are also unique in the fact that the bottom part of the cone on the outside edge is "trimmed" (truncated, cut off) to allow it to fit in the smaller "K frame". It was (the forcing cone) originally found in the much larger "N frame". You can shoot high power loads (within reason) with 158 gr. and above bullet weights with confidence (I do). I also religiously clean and de-lead my revolvers.
 
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The K-frame magnums (models 13, 19, 65, and 66) were designed for heavy bullet 357 loads. If you stick with 158gr projectiles and don't over-presure your handloads, any should last a lifetime.

Exactly. You're not buying a .357mag gun that can only shoot .38spl. You'd be buying a .357mag revolver that should shoot heavier weight bullets in .357mag. That being said, for range use, you'll end up using almost all .38spl anyway. We all do. And a few 125gr. loads here and there likely won't hurt anything.

The 19 was called the Combat Magnum, and was designed in part, by Bill Jordan, one of the great legendary Border Patrol agents. There are very few people who have "been there and done that" like he did. If you're curious about the model, you can read a little more about it from a late member of our forum here, Mr. Stephen Camp.

Edit to add:
In fact, Mr. Camp also had another great overview of the different models and sizes of S&W revolvers available in his piece on frame comparisons. It has great detailed descriptions and it even has pictures for us illiterate folk! (Man do I miss having him around…)
 
Amen to the Bill Jordan reference!

He was an American handgunner worthy of respect. The Model 19 was his "perfect combat handgun", and it hasn't changed. The ammunition the unwary might feed it has.
 
a 14,15,16,17,18,19,25,27,28,29,or a 57 in good condition would be great as lonfg as you can get ammo...
 
A Model 10-7 .38spl. manufactured late 70s would be a good start.

It's a K-frame, 6 shot that comes in different barrel lengths and can handle +P ammo. Great trigger and known for its accuracy.
 
www.egun.de is a wonderful resource.

For competition 'bullseye' type target shooting, the .38 Special Model 14 K38 Target Masterpiece was the preferred gun for many years. The .22lr Model 17 K22 Target Masterpiece was its companion piece and is highly sort after today as a perfect training, plinking, hunting and casual target shooting firearm.

The Model 27 .357 Magnum is a fine firearm, I have the service grade version, the Model 28, manufactured in 1968, it is a wonder of fit and finish compared to modern firearms. I much prefer it over the K frames, of which I have owned several. The Model 27 will have better polish and a checkered top strap.

If you don't limit yourself to .357/.38 then then Model 29 is considered a classic. Be warned that the Model 29, 29-1 & 29-2 may suffer timing issues if shot constantly with magnum ammunition. Like the Model 19 the Model 29 was scaled up from the original .44 special and the effects of the more powerful ammunition were not addressed until the 1980s.

The Model 686 & 586 Distinguished Combat Magnums are again from the 1980s. these also suffered some issues, in the early guns, guns marked 586, 586-1, 686 & 686-1 require modification to prevent soft primers flowing back into the firing pin bushing and locking up the gun.

My personal preference? Any N frame (.357 or .44 magnum) with a 5 inch barrel.
 
so far I like 14 K38 Target, 19, 27 the most,

are there any particular series that should I look for?
 
Robert, if you go looking for a Model 14, there are a couple of things to keep in mind.

If you find one from, say, the 1960's, it's possible that it may have been used in competitive shooting, and if so, it may have had some alterations or modifications performed internally. This may include trigger work, a different rebound spring, etc. I'm NOT saying this is bad, just something you should be aware of.

My late 1950's 14 has a much easier double and single action trigger pull than my mid 70's 14. It has a modified trigger. My mid 70's 14 is probably just as it left the factory. This likely was because by the later 1970's the model 14 wasn't quite as common in competitive shooting, and so mods in 70's 14's were maybe a little less common. Quality wise, though, the two guns are just about equivalent, IMO.

I had to do a little smithing when I got my 50's 14 because the light trigger had affected some other components. Not a big deal, but some aftermarket trigger work may have been performed better than other trigger work.

Also, some Model 14's are single action only for competitive shooting. They came that way from the factory. Simpson's LTD. has a bunch of 14's that they say were made SAO by the owner, not the factory. I don't know if they're mistaken or what, but that's what they say. Regardless, I'd stay away from the SAO versions.

I think the 1970's is a good era to look in - the quality is good, but the prices are more reasonable. A quick and easy (but not foolproof) trick to see how much a gun has been used over the years is to look at the finish wear on the ejector rod. This doesn't apply if the gun has been refinished or the rod replaced. Good luck.
 
With the N frames an S prefix to the serial number will mean a gun from the 1950s or 1960s. An N prefix will mean a gun from the 1970s.
Collectors tend to prefer the older guns, In my opinion the quality control was higher before S&W became a part of a corporate conglomerate in the late 1960s.

The adjustable sight K frame gun will have a K prefix to the serial number, later guns will have a serial number 1Kxxxxx, 2Kxxxxx etc as they moved the K to create a new serial range.
 
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