S&W K-22 / Model 17 - what a sweet shooter!

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jad0110

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I recently purchased from Gunbroker a pinned and recessed 4 screw S&W K-22 Target Masterpiece, Model 17 no dash manufactured in 1959. What a sweet gun! This gun is far and away many times better than my previous 22 LR, a Taurus 94. I think this is the most fun gun to shoot that I own. The finishing is extremely good, with only a light scratch on the backstrap and wear of the blueing on the ejector rod and cylinder face. The grips appear to be original, though I have not removed them yet. The trigger is as slick as silk, probably one of the nicest I've ever felt. Lockup is very tight. And the accuracy is astounding! I only practiced at 7 yds tonight, but I could probably hit a golf ball with it a good percentage of the time in slow fire DA. This gun is going to spoil me rotten! It and my model 14 are going to be great companions.

Only two glitches, both of them minor I believe. Perhaps you guys and gals can offer some advice:

1) Spent cases are difficult to extract from two of the charge holes. With one brand of ammo I would have to lightly tap the ejector rod with the butt of a screwdriver. With a different brand I just had to push the ejector rod a little harder than I would with my other revolvers to get the cases out. Is this an indication that the charge holes may need a little bit of chamfering?

2) Failure to Fire: I got a few FTFs over the course of 250 rounds. The timing is spot on, so I know that's not it. I'm wondering if a previous owner messed with the tension screw to lighten the pull. Which way do I turn the screw to increase the tension (clockwise or counter)? Is there anything else that could cause this problem?

Despite the 2 aforementioned glitches, I think this K-22 is a keeper!

I'll try to post some pictures one day.
 
Jad, welcome to the K-22 club - I see your K-Frame addiction is progressing nicely :evil: . Time for a sig line update too; I'm sure having it is way better than awaiting it ;) . Glad to hear it shoots well. I'll let Da Fuff and the other experts here tell you how to fix the sticky extraction issues. Keep enjoyin that new old K-22.
 
.22 revolvers in my experience are very finicky about ammo. I have a Ruger SP-101 that, even after a trip to the gunsmith to have the chambers polished, absolutely refuses to shoot CCI Blazer ammo without them being very sticky and hard to extract. Since the polish job, CCI Mini-Mags practically fall out, as does every other load I've tried, but the Blazers continue to stick. Long ago, I had a Diamondback .22 that hated Remington ammo.

I had an 8 3/8" K-22 some years ago, before a burglar absconded with it. I still have a number of 25 yard targets sporting sub one inch six shot groups fired by it and my twenty two year old eyes. I hunted squirrels with it one season, and did as well as I had done the season before with a scoped .22 rifle.

If I ever run across a nice 8 3/8 Model 17 for sale with target hammer, trigger, and grips, it will be mine. There will be no petty concern about the cost, though I will of course check the serial number.:)
 
Years ago I won this old model 17 in a raffle at work. Been told it was made in 1959. A bit beat up, worn bluing etc. Apparently the grip frame has bent some because regular grips won't fit it exactly right. I cleaned it up and have been shooting it as is for a lot of years. Beauty part is, this old gun still shoots better than I can hold it. Sticky extraction is pretty common in a lot of model 17s. I polished the cylinders pretty good but some ammo still sticks a bit. My wife's favorite revolver.
Picture283.jpg
 
Sweet. I have a model 14 that needs company also. Maybe I'll find one one day.
 
Jubjub,

Mine didn't like the Remington either. The Federal stuff from Wallie World worked better, but they still stuck a bit. Not a huge problem, but something I'd like to look into getting corrected.

bakert,

How did you polish the charge holes yourself? What tools did you use?

Also, has anyone ever sent a gun like this back to S&W for work/checkup? How was the experience?

BTW, while at the range I introduced two brand new shooters to the K-22. One was starting on a Ruger P89 9mm and the other was starting on a Springer XD40. The shooter of the XD40 did NOT like the snap of the 40 cal very much, so I let her shoot my K-22. In her words, "I like this one much better!"

It really is something special. I get all warm and toasty inside just thinking about it! :p
 
Polishing charge holes...........I purchased a .22 caliber Tornado brush and chucked it in the old Dremel. Oil it. Insert it in hole, turn on motor. Do not over do it. It is far better to simply brush and clean them with a bit of bore solvent. A lot of times, the charge holes never get cleaned.

To adjust the mainspring tension (strain) screw, screw it in clockwise, like any other screw. Some people will grind a bit off the other end of the screw, effectively shortening it, so they do not have a loose screw. If this has been done to your's, replacement is the way to go. Compare it's length to your Model 14's strain screw. They should be identical. The FTFs could also be from a crudded up firing pin. Check to make certain it moves smartly. The firing pin spring should give it some tension.

Congrats on your new prize! A Model 17 is a joy, sheer joy. Here's mine.

SmithWessonModel17-3.gif
 
Compare it's length to your Model 14's strain screw. They should be identical. The FTFs could also be from a crudded up firing pin. Check to make certain it moves smartly.

I checked the firing pin by putting the gun into full lockup and the rocking the hammer back and forth with my thumb (no dry firing). The pin moved back and forth as it should, with good tension.

Edited: I did get my mainspring back in moments ago, so ignore the following paragraph. Oh yes, and the serial number on the grips do match the gun, happy dance! :neener:

Of course the mainspring fell out of my 14 and I don't know how to put it back in :eek: :banghead: . I am a moron when it comes to gun mechanics. I already PM'd some other folks, but maybe you guys can help me out with putting it back in. An exploded diagram might be helpful.

The strain screw on the 14 and 17 appeared to be the same length, though the blueing was worn off the 17. So perhaps I should order a new one. Could the mainspring be weakened? It is afterall nearly 50 years old. And if I'm going to replace the mainspring and strain screw, should I use S&W parts (to keep the trigger feel the same as my 14)?
 
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