S & W Model 686 6 inch vs. Ruger GP-100 6 inch both in .357 and Taurus

[stinger 327]

Between these three revolvers and I believe the Taurus Model 66 has 7 rounds over the 2 others that are six.
Which revolver is better made, more accurate and highly recommended?

 

[funklord12]

I have a 686 no dash and a GP-100. I never owned a Taurus revolver. My recommendation is to purchase the GP-100.

Both revolvers have the same accuracy in my hand, but I am not a champion shooter.

The factory GP-100 trigger is not as nice as the 686 but it is easily remedied with a reduced power spring kit (costs about $10). The front sight on the GP-100 can be swapped out with a fiber optic sight ($25) in less the than a minute. Both of these modifications improve the Ruger's shooting.

Both revolvers are robust designs but I like how the Ruger has a lockup point on the front of the crane. The GP-100 can be disassembled and tweaked easier than the S&W. I am always worried about deforming S&W side plates and screw heads.

My opinion about the forged S&W frame versus the cast Ruger frame is it is a moot point because both will last a lifetime of magnum loads. Although it does make the 686 a few ounces lighter.

If you're dead set on having a seven shot cylinder get the 686 PLUS, the Ruger is only available with six shots.

Overall buy the GP-100 and save yourself $200. Another option is to be like true revolver lover (like myself) and own both.

 

[MrBorland]

I own and shoot S&Ws, so I obviously like them a lot, but would seriously look at the GP100 as well. Some depends on how you intend to use it and what you'll be shooting out of it. Some depends on how the gun feels in your hand, too, so if you can, check each out at a gun store - one might feel muzzle heavy to you, or the ergonomics better.

As far as the trigger, S&Ws have a reputation for a better factory trigger, but those, too can be greatly improved by a good action job. GP100s respond well to tuning, and one of the smoothest actions I've ever felt was on a well-tuned GP100. Note, though, that a "good action job" on any revolver doesn't mean simply changing springs. Pull weight isn't really that important, so long as the action's smooth, so a well-tuned revolver could still have the same pull weight.

It may not be as svelte or as elegant as the S&W, but the design of the GP100 is excellent. The front lock-up, the easily-changed front sight, an ejector rod that doesn't unscrew or turn as the cylinder turns, and the strength of the frame itself make for a very robust design. If you're going to feed it a steady diet of full-house .357mags, I'd lean even more towards the GP100.

I can't comment on the Taurus, since I've never owned or shot one, but, depending on you application and how the gun feels in your hand, you really can't go wrong with either the Ruger or S&W.

 

[bannockburn]

Based on my own experience with 4" barreled versions of two of these revolvers, I would say that either the Model 686 or the GP100 would serve you well in terms of overall quality, reliability, and accuracy. I have never owned a Taurus revolver so I can't relate any first hand experience with them.

 

[diyj98]

As others have said, either the S&W or Ruger would work. I have a 4" GP100 and a 4" S&W 686+. I've debated selling one, but really can't decide which one I like the best.

 

[MIL-DOT]

I've been gushing for a pre-lock 4" 686 ever since shooting a freind's 686 decades ago, but somehow, have yet to get one.
But, I do love my 6" GP100, as do all of my freinds that have fired it. It's accurate, and has a fantastic trigger (my SP101 desperately needed a lighter hammer spring, but the GP is perfect). Also, if the cyclider lock-up were any tighter, you'd think it was a Python....seriously.
For $200 less, I'd go GP100 all day long, and never look back (ESPECIALLY if we're talking about a newer 686).

 

[Zaydok Allen]

The 686 can be had in a 7 round version called a 686+. That would be my recommendation with a GP100 as a close second. I own 2 686's and both are great. I just like the lines a little better on the Smith. I have no doubt the Smith's will hold up just fine, but if I was planning to feed the gun a steady diet of hot and heavy loads, I'd choose the GP100.

I have never and will never own a Taurus gun. Of the three Taurus revolvers I've ever shot, all three had major problems and had to be returned to the factory. Two of them had major timing and lock up issues. One was so bad that one of the chambers wouldn't fire at all. My tattoo artist had a Taurus 44 that had the same issue. The third one I shot I watched the cylinder fall off of the gun as someone loaded it, and this was a factory new gun on its first range trip.

My sample size is very small, so take it with a grain of salt. Lots of THR members love their Taurus guns. I choose to put my money elsewhere though.

 

[Kleanbore]

Last year a neighbor brought over an old but pristine six inch 586 that had been used years ago by a police cadet friend who retired it upon graduating to a semi-auto. I really liked it.

I had no real need for one at all. None whatsoever. But as I said, I really liked it.

I went out and found a five inch 686 Plus Pro series revolver with a tapered under lug, slept on the idea, and went back out and bought it the next day.

I like the five inch better than four or six, and when I commented to the guy behind the counter, a former policeman from revolver days, that I liked the idea of the seventh shot but that the flute spacing looked strange to me, his response was that you can't have too many rounds.

I suggest looking at one.

Off topic, but the man would not sell his old Detective Special back-up that he was carrying.

I do like Rugers but I have never owned a Ruger revolver. The Smith trigger seems better to me.

 

[Zaydok Allen]

I like the five inch better than four or six,

I agree. Personally I think 5" is the nicest balance for any SA/DA revolver. It just looks right and seems to best balance performance, site radius, and packability. That being said, my two 686's are 3" unfluted on the 686+, and 6" on my Performance Center Competitor.

I liked the idea of the seventh shot but that the flute spacing looked strange to me, his response was that you can't have too many rounds.

I recall a year or two ago that someone here posted a thread about a 4" 686+ SSR that they bought. The flutes were cut wrong and out of proper place, and it resulted in one or two chambers having some really thin chamber walls. He ended up sending it in for a new cylinder if memory serves. It may have even been that the cylinder had been cut with the wrong number of flutes for the number of chambers, and that resulted in the misplacement of them.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I would buy the S&W M686 or M686+ over the other two.

 

[Tallball]

I have owned many Taurus revolvers, and a few Rugers. I haven't owned any S&W, but have fired quite a few. My advice would be to shoot them first, or at least handle them, and see how they feel to you.

I have owned 14 Taurus revolvers and only one has given me problems. Two or three of them had triggers that were stiffer than I like, and the rest were very good. Of my three Rugers, one had a small bolt loosen up after thousands of rounds, so I just used some Loc-Tite. None of the S&W's I have fired malfunctioned, though my experiences are limited.

Funny how people will say, "I have never owned a Taurus, but they are junk."

"I have never eaten pizza, but it looks messy."

"I have never had a girlfriend, but my cousin says they are annoying."

Etc.

And I agree that a five inch barrel is a very nice size for a revolver.

 

[diyj98]

"I have never had a girlfriend, but my cousin says they are annoying."

Your cousin is right. Especially if they find out about your wife.

 

[Zaydok Allen]

Funny how people will say, "I have never owned a Taurus, but they are junk."

I'm not sure if that was aimed at me, but if so, I did not say they were junk. I shared 3 experiences that were all bad, and a 4th story that did not actually happen to me, but from a guy I trust. All 4 have lead me to decide not to buy Taurus guns, and based on my experience shooting them, I do not recommend them.

I also said,

My sample size is very small, so take it with a grain of salt. Lots of THR members love their Taurus guns.

So please don't overstate my post, or put words in anyone's mouth. In fact now that I look through the thread, no one said "they are junk".

 

[Comrade Mike]

The 586/686 is on its own level. For an out of the box gun it's a cut above the GP-100 IMO

 

[stinger 327]

I have a 686 no dash and a GP-100. I never owned a Taurus revolver. My recommendation is to purchase the GP-100.

Both revolvers have the same accuracy in my hand, but I am not a champion shooter.

The factory GP-100 trigger is not as nice as the 686 but it is easily remedied with a reduced power spring kit (costs about $10). The front sight on the GP-100 can be swapped out with a fiber optic sight ($25) in less the than a minute. Both of these modifications improve the Ruger's shooting.

Both revolvers are robust designs but I like how the Ruger has a lockup point on the front of the crane. The GP-100 can be disassembled and tweaked easier than the S&W. I am always worried about deforming S&W side plates and screw heads.

My opinion about the forged S&W frame versus the cast Ruger frame is it is a moot point because both will last a lifetime of magnum loads. Although it does make the 686 a few ounces lighter.

If you're dead set on having a seven shot cylinder get the 686 PLUS, the Ruger is only available with six shots.

Overall buy the GP-100 and save yourself $200. Another option is to be like true revolver lover (like myself) and own both.

That's what I do sometimes if I can't make up my mind get them both. So there is about a $200 difference between the 686 and GP-100 both with 6 inch barrels?

 

[stinger 327]

I have owned many Taurus revolvers, and a few Rugers. I haven't owned any S&W, but have fired quite a few. My advice would be to shoot them first, or at least handle them, and see how they feel to you.

I have owned 14 Taurus revolvers and only one has given me problems. Two or three of them had triggers that were stiffer than I like, and the rest were very good. Of my three Rugers, one had a small bolt loosen up after thousands of rounds, so I just used some Loc-Tite. None of the S&W's I have fired malfunctioned, though my experiences are limited.

Funny how people will say, "I have never owned a Taurus, but they are junk."

"I have never eaten pizza, but it looks messy."

"I have never had a girlfriend, but my cousin says they are annoying."

Etc.

And I agree that a five inch barrel is a very nice size for a revolver.

There is another brand that costs the least and it the Rossi. Maybe Charter Arms is even a cheaper brand.

 

[stinger 327]

The 686 can be had in a 7 round version called a 686+. That would be my recommendation with a GP100 as a close second. I own 2 686's and both are great. I just like the lines a little better on the Smith. I have no doubt the Smith's will hold up just fine, but if I was planning to feed the gun a steady diet of hot and heavy loads, I'd choose the GP100.

I have never and will never own a Taurus gun. Of the three Taurus revolvers I've ever shot, all three had major problems and had to be returned to the factory. Two of them had major timing and lock up issues. One was so bad that one of the chambers wouldn't fire at all. My tattoo artist had a Taurus 44 that had the same issue. The third one I shot I watched the cylinder fall off of the gun as someone loaded it, and this was a factory new gun on its first range trip.

My sample size is very small, so take it with a grain of salt. Lots of THR members love their Taurus guns. I choose to put my money elsewhere though.

Isn't the 686 a heavier gun than the GP-100 so you get less recoil?
Which one has a better warranty?

 

[stinger 327]

I have owned many Taurus revolvers, and a few Rugers. I haven't owned any S&W, but have fired quite a few. My advice would be to shoot them first, or at least handle them, and see how they feel to you.

I have owned 14 Taurus revolvers and only one has given me problems. Two or three of them had triggers that were stiffer than I like, and the rest were very good. Of my three Rugers, one had a small bolt loosen up after thousands of rounds, so I just used some Loc-Tite. None of the S&W's I have fired malfunctioned, though my experiences are limited.

Funny how people will say, "I have never owned a Taurus, but they are junk."

"I have never eaten pizza, but it looks messy."

"I have never had a girlfriend, but my cousin says they are annoying."

Etc.

And I agree that a five inch barrel is a very nice size for a revolver.

Is Rossi junk?

 

[Zaydok Allen]

686+ = 43.9 oz
GP100= 45 oz

S&W has a life time warranty
Ruger I believe had no official warranty policy, but the always take care of problems from what I hear. The warranty is implied, and fulfilled. They are known for their customer service.

Rossi is a subsidiary of Taurus now. Interpret how you like.

 

[stinger 327]

686+ = 43.9 oz
GP100= 45 oz

S&W has a life time warranty
Ruger I believe had no official warranty policy, but the always take care of problems from what I hear. The warranty is implied, and fulfilled. They are known for their customer service.

Rossi is a subsidiary of Taurus now. Interpret how you like.

So then Rossi and Taurus are made in Brazil?

 

[MCgunner]

I kept my unreal accurate Taurus 66 and bought a 3" to go with it. I sold my Ruger Security Six, not that accurate, and sold my M19 Smith as the 4" Taurus is a better shooter with just as good a trigger and I had a K frame forcing cone crack at the flat spot on me. I'm a little off on K frames since then, but still have one. The Taurus is a better shooter and a little beefier around the forcing cone.

The Smith 686 is a good revolver, with preference to pre-Hillary hole models. Your choice, your money. I've made my choice and live happy.

 

[MCgunner]

Is Rossi junk?

The old Interarms stuff had their up and down years. I've owned 'em with gawd awful tooling marks and such I had to polish out after getting tired of lookin' at the flaws. But they all shot well. Had issues with firing pin breakage, though. The fix is to fit a K frame firing pin.

Since Taurus bought 'em out, fit and finish has gone way up and they seem to be decent revolvers, now, especially considering the price. I have a M68 Rossi bought in 1981 that is amazingly well put together and finished. The bad years seem to be around the late 80s, early 90s. This does NOT apply to the little .22s. I've owned 2 of those and they're nice little revolvers. On my second one as the first got stolen.

Would I buy a new Rossi revolver? Sure, if I thought I needed one and wanted one. But, I've got plenty of revolvers at the moment. Taurus vs new production Smith and Wesson? I'll take the Taurus, more gun for the money, let you waste your money on the Hillary hole masterpiece.

 

[JO JO]

i have had s&w and rugers both good guns will serve you well the taurus can
be hit or miss from what I have seen and the smiths and rugers will hold their value and possibly gain value the taurus not so much I had a friend that had
a hard time to sell his taurus their not really sought after

 

[Zaydok Allen]

I'm not sure where Rossi's are made. They are owned by Taurus though. It wasn't meant as a qualifying statement. I was just letting you know.

 

[maxxhavoc]

I can't speak to the Ruger and Smith, because I only own the Taurus 66.

The closest I have had to the other two is a 2.25" SP101. It had sharp edges on the trigger, after 20 rounds of .357, my finger would be bleeding. I developed a flinch with it that didn't go away even after I smoothed out the edges. I traded it off after shooting a friend's Taurus Snubnose Tracker 44 mag, which was more pleasant to shoot, against all reason.

I bought a 4" Taurus 66 used after that, and I have been 100% happy with the purchase. Totally reliable, great accuracy.

Obviously, I am comparing a snub to a 4", so it's not exactly a fair comparison. The Ruger was solidly built and the steel looked like artwork. It was a good gun, but it just didn't work for me. I also prefer my wife's 605 2" to the SP101.

Put your hands on all of them, shoot them if you can, and make your choice. Search for revolver checks - if you check out a revolver before you buy, very little can catch you by surprise.