S&W Pre 27 3.5" (80%) value?

[primalmu]

I've got the opportunity to purchase a S&W Pre 27 .357 Mag revolver with 3.5" barrel thats approximately 80% for what I think is a pretty good price. He wants $425 for it. The condition is perfect, actually, because I'm wanting a revolver to carry snake shot with me while hiking in the desert, so its likely to get banged around pretty good anyway.

 

[bamabiker]

S&W did not nickel the hammer and trigger so that one has been nickeled after it left the factory. That may not matter to you if you just want it for a hiking gun.
I'd check the mechanics good and see if I could talk him down a little more.

 

[Deaf Smith]

S&W did not nickel the hammer and trigger so that one has been nickeled after it left the factory. That may not matter to you if you just want it for a hiking gun.
I'd check the mechanics good and see if I could talk him down a little more.

Correct!

It's a good shooter and that is that.

Deaf

 

[primalmu]

Thanks for the tips. I wouldn't have thought to check the hammer for a refinish job. I figure even if it is refinished, its still a darn good gun for the price. Certainly better than buying a Taurus for the same price.

 

[rcmodel]

Still, if I wanted a gun for only .38 Special snake-shot while hiking?

I'd buy a lighter one then an N-Frame .357 Model 27!!!!

Pick up a nice honest old K-Frame Model 10 or something that hasn't been refinished and Bee Happy it is so much lighter on the way back from the hike!

rc

 

[rs7]

I would run , not walk, away from that revolver. It's been seriously neglected, poorly refinished (notice the rounded flutes, pitting, wear on the barrel, etc.) The stocks are worn and broken. Who knows what's going on inside. How's the cylinder timing, cb gap, cylinder endplay. Don't do it.

 

[primalmu]

rcmodel: I'm buying it for more than just hiking, of course. I've been wanting a big revolver anyway, something my girlfriend can handle the recoil of. I keep my eyes open for a K frame, but revolvers are few and far between around here it seems.

 

[MagnumDweeb]

Four hundred cash. Get new grips. Open it up and clean it out the gunk and dirt, and if it runs right you got a good deal. If don't run right and you have to send it to a smith to get it running right for another $200, you didn't get a bad deal.

The main things are the barrel and the innards. If both of those are 90% that's what matters. Get it as a shooter and nothing more. If I could jump on it for $400 OTD and no paper I would snatch it up.

 

[joed]

I agree that the revolver has been neglected. I would pass, I think you'll find a lot more wrong with it once you start using it.

 

[primalmu]

I might have a lead on a S&W 686 4" for a pretty good price.

 

[Gordon]

I'd pay 300-350 for it as a beater.

 

[rcmodel]

And it's not even close to 80%.

It has been refinished, poorly.
And even that is coming off in places?

I'd call it 50%, Tops!

rc

 

[tipoc]

I'd take it.

tipoc

 

[19-3Ben]

I'd pay 300-350 for it as a beater.

Exactly my feeling.

I'd buy for $300, and then check it out thoroughly, so that, as magnum dweeb points out, I could afford to throw money into fixing what's wrong with it, if anything.
Since the finish is ruined anyway, I also might consider something like a "melt" job, cut and instal for night sights, and hard chrome refinish. As long as it's non-original, may as well do it right!

 

[bikemutt]

I would move on...

 

[hAkron]

I'd probably buy it for $400 and then I'd pay to have it refinished. It would be a sweet gun after that. Other than the crappy nickel or hard chrome or what it's still a 3" pre 27. I mean I would have to see it in person to make sure it wasn't messed up, but it's sinful what I can justify to myself in the $400 range.

 

[788Ham]

Take advantage of the 686 4", walk away from this one, basket case waiting to have monies dumped into it ! Better ones out there, get the 686 !

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

You can determine the condition of the internal parts by working the action very slowly. You don't have to take it apart. Work the action very slowly. Put a little bit of drag on the cylinder with your thumb. Make sure the hand picks up every point on the ratchet tooth star, make sure it engages for every chamber, not slipping past any. Determine if the cylinder locks up simultaneously as the hammer goes to full cock for every chamber. Do this with your thumb putting a little bit of drag on the cylinder. Make sure the stud on the frame that prevents the cylinder from sliding backwards has not been overpolished. Make sure the cylinder does not slip over it when you push the ejector rod in.

These tests will tell you if the internal parts are functioning properly or not. If it fails any of these tests, then you need to consider the cost of repair. If it passes these tests, then consider you are buying a refinished gun that has some wear on the finish.

For what it's worth, in my experience, with S&W revolvers it takes an awful lot of abuse to mess up the lockwork. Generally speaking, most of the beaters I have examined have actually timed and locked up just fine.