S&W sear

[10X]

Numrich shows a #4 sear as standard for a 3rd gen S&W.

Midway advertises a #5 and a#6 sear. What is the difference vs. a #4?

If I have a gun with a stiff single action trigger (DA is fine) would a different sear help or should I just work on the existing sear?

I have had experience with 1911 sears, but not 3rd gen S&W sears.

 

[loose noose]

As far as I know there isn't any difference. If your single action is a bit rough, I'd do a slight polishing job on the one that is already installed. It should smooth out significantly, however don't over do it, or your hammer will be able to be pushed off from the full cock position.

 

[rcmodel]

The sear has nothing to do with SA pull.
The movable sear controls the DA only.

That is entirely determined by the shape of the SA sear which is the trigger I tip.

And that it not arrived at by 'Polishing'!!!
Don't do that!!!

Photos from the S&W Armorers Manual of what is needed.

Weigh minimum SA weight:



SA Too Light = Push Off:


rc

 

[rcmodel]

SA Too Heavy:

 

[BBBBill]

rc, I think he's talking about 3rd gen semi-autos like the 5904, 3913, etc.

 

[loose noose]

rcmodel, I stand corrected, when I mentioned polishing/stoning the sear, I actually meant the bevel of the trigger, as your illustration indicates.

 

[rcmodel]

I think you are right!!

Never mind!

rc

 

[10X]

Absent other input, I will attempt to polish the existing sear.

 

[BBBBill]

Suggest you go to an S&W specific forum to ask. Likely someone there would know specifics for those guns That said, I own 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gen guns. They're all the same, at least for the traditional configuration models. Single action mode is similar to the 1911 which is very misunderstood by most. Changing sear nose angle is almost always a no-no. Polish only. I have had success with stoning in a relief bevel on the back edge to provide a crisp release. If you do that keep it to no more than 30% of the sear face and keep the angle relatively shallow. The old Tom Wilson sear jig instructions for the 1911 sear recommended a 45 degree angle, but that's way too steep as it allows the sear to drop deeper into the hammer hooks. Keep it about 15 degrees. Prep the hammer hooks with a good stone to remove any machining marks, lightly break the edge, and polish. Ron Power made an adapter for his Series I jig. That's the only commercially available jig that I'm aware of. Worth the effort to buy/borrow/rent one if you don't have one already.

 

[rcmodel]

+1

Attempting to 'polish' any sear or hammer notch without to correct jig is a receipt to disaster.

Very few of us have the necessary skill with a stone to maintain the angle perfectly.

If I was even gonna try it?
I would get a replacement sear somewhere and make sure it works before even touching the original one with a stone, and no sear jig.

rc