saiga 308 trigger removal

[michiganfan]

I have googled everthing and could not find a link that clearly shows how to remove the trigger group form a saiga 308. anybody got a link to a website . been to the saiga forum

 

[wally]

Search youtube for Saiga Conversion videos. There is a very good one that is 18:15 long.

--wally.

 

[Girodin]

Wally I haven't checked but I'll ask on the OPs behalf, is that a video of a .308 or another model. The 308 is different from the others in that it uses a different FCG setup.

You just need to pull the wires holding the FCG out push the pins out and remove it. If you use a retainer plate to install the new FCG you don't need to worry about how bad you mangle the wire either.

 

[kmcintosh78]

Check out the saiga forum. http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?

 

[wally]

The 308 is different from the others in that it uses a different FCG setup

Huh?

The retainer plate you are talking about is is the same for all the AKs including the Saiga 12 shotgun, there are lots of variations in the "Shepard's hook" spring among the AKs, but the trigger setups are all the same except for the single vs, double hook options, and you can put a single hook trigger in a double hook gun with no extra work, and vice-versa if you make the clearance cut in the receiver for the second hammer hook.

The only real difference in doing the .308 is you don't need the bullet guide as it is built into the magazines you'll be buying for it.

The real work in dong the conversion is drilling out the crimped pins that hold the original wishbone trigger, filling the holes and drilling the rivets for the trigger guard and original trigger plate. The video shows the details nicely for a 7.62x39 but its basically the same for all.

--wally.

 

[Girodin]

I just lost a long post so I'm going to rewrite the redacted version. Wally you are wrong on several accounts. You clearly have never done a .308 conversion and I high doubt an S12. I was referring to the stock FCG it is very different on the 308. It does not use the wishbone linkage and there are no crimp pins to remove. Look at the picture below where are the pins?

The only real difference in doing the .308 is you don't need the bullet guide as it is built into the magazines you'll be buying for it.

This is a completely erronious statement. In addition to the above mentioned difference there is also the safety issue. Read here if you like http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=11427

If there is no difference with the 308 why does Dinzag sell a modified G2 for the 308 and why do people buy it? http://www.dinzagarms.com/misc_parts/fcg.html

Doing a 308 conversion is IMO easier but it is definitely different from doing any of the other Saiga's.

The retainer plate you are talking about is is the same for all the AKs including the Saiga 12 shotgun,

This is also wrong. A standard retainer plate will not work with the S12 without modification. That is why they sell a S12 specific one. See below.

For the S12

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=120696

For the others

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=685437

They are in fact different.

 

[wally]

Ah Krebs parts, home of the $1500 AK

I did an S12, but I used Dinzag's hairpin clips he included with my order, I bought a Tapco plate but didn't bother using it.

A few strokes with a file on the retainer plate hardly looks worth the bother of hassling with a second part, I think the Tapco one I've got looks more like the S12 you show making it pretty much universal.

You are right, I've forgotten the .308 wishbone trigger is held in a little differently but once you get rid of it it the standard stuff works with at most minor fitting. If watching the 7.62 get done doesn't make it clear how to deal with the minor differences in the .308, maybe the conversion is a biting off more than they should be doing.

The Tapco trigger kit needs a bit more fitting for the the S12 than the .308 or others. Its easier if you choose to not keep the bolt hold open, but I wanted to keep it on mine.

On the .308 you can keep the stock hammer and disconnecter as the US made mags count as three parts for your 922 count, so yeah, I forgot it is even "easier" than the others for more than the bullet guide.

My S12 was the most difficult as it lacked the pistol grip nut cutout.

Dinzag's stuff is good, but none of the mods to the trigger parts are anything you can't do yourself to the Tapco set. I usually find the Tapco trigger sets at gun shows most any time for $20.

--wally.

 

[Girodin]

A few strokes with a file on the retainer plate hardly looks worth the bother of hassling with a second part,

If you were buying it specifically for an S12 I would order the S12 one since it is a whopping seven dollars and the tapco plate is what $6?. You cannot tell from the pics but one must also bend the plate to work on the s12. They are not difficult modifications and if one had a regular plate on hand they could make it work. The fact is however that they are different. A normal plate will not work without modification.

he standard stuff works with at most minor fitting.

I suppose that depends on one's definition of minor. Most would not consider TIG welding minor.

Dinzag's stuff is good, but none of the mods to the trigger parts are anything you can't do yourself to the Tapco set.

Some people do not weld and still want their safety to work. The Dinzag trigger is the easiest way to deal with ALL the issues associated with the 308. One can do various other fixes to address the individual problems but the Dinzag is easiest for most people. DO you even know what all the issues are?

On the .308 you can keep the stock hammer and disconnecter as the US made mags count as three parts for your 922 count, so yeah, I forgot it is even "easier" than the others for more than the bullet guide.

That has nothing to do with why I think it is easier actually. You would re-install the old one anyways so use of the old one doesn't make much of a difference. I suppose it would save you the trouble of swapping the spring on to a new hammer, and the 8 seconds that it takes to do so.

If one used a stock G2 FCG it could save some effort in grinding and fitting the hammer. There may be other reasons to not mix and match the FGC group parts though.

If watching the 7.62 get done doesn't make it clear how to deal with the minor differences in the .308, maybe the conversion is a biting off more than they should be doing.

It is more that the 7.62x39 (a 308 is a 7.62 as well) requires a different process to remove the FCG someone who has never done it might be looking for a part to drill that doesn't exist, especially when the uniformed are insisting that it is there and there is no difference between the models.

Furthermore the video doesn't do anything to make it clear how to deal with certain issues associated with the 308. You seem not to be even aware of what they are so the video obviously didn't make it clear to you.

You are right, I've forgotten the .308 wishbone trigger is held in a little differently

Look inside a 308 one day they are a completely different set up. The trigger is not even the same part. The rest of the FGC has notable differences as well.


To the OP. It is an easy removal. Take of the dust cover remove the bolt carrier. Look on the left hand side. There is a thin little wire running along the left side of the receiver. It is holding the two axle pins that keep the hammer and the dis-connector/trigger in place. Use some needle nose pliers and pull it out. Now push out the two axle pins holding the FCG parts in. Now pull the FCG parts out as there is nothing left holding them in. Voila, you are done with the FCG removal.