I used a vise grips.
Saiga 7.62x39 Conversion Story
- Thread starter ChileRelleno
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I used a vise grips.
Last edited:
Strykervet
member
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- Nov 16, 2010
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That step in the chamber is interesting... Wouldn't that affect accuracy as well? Having something like that happening, the neck expanding, WHILE the bullet is moving from the case, through the lead, and into the rifling?
Just curious. I don't have an AK anymore, I had a few years ago though. The Bulgarian SLR95 I got in the 90's was a very fine rifle that I wish I still had, but I sold it during the ban because those ban AK's just sucked. But this one was not your average AK, all milled with a Steyr barrel, it was more accurate than the Mini14 I had but less accurate than my AR, likely due to the sights, and being able to put a pistol grip on it now would have been the bees knees. I may look for another...
Nice pictures, OP. Good job, I just don't understand why you have to do that much work to them though. I know it has to do with importation laws, but why don't they just send them like they did in the 90's with the thumbhole? That didn't require a conversion, just a parts swap.
Just curious. I don't have an AK anymore, I had a few years ago though. The Bulgarian SLR95 I got in the 90's was a very fine rifle that I wish I still had, but I sold it during the ban because those ban AK's just sucked. But this one was not your average AK, all milled with a Steyr barrel, it was more accurate than the Mini14 I had but less accurate than my AR, likely due to the sights, and being able to put a pistol grip on it now would have been the bees knees. I may look for another...
Nice pictures, OP. Good job, I just don't understand why you have to do that much work to them though. I know it has to do with importation laws, but why don't they just send them like they did in the 90's with the thumbhole? That didn't require a conversion, just a parts swap.
ChileRelleno
Member
Think it through... There is no way it is going to effect accuracy for numerous reasons.
Depth bullet is seated in cartridge and the uniform expansion of cartridge at the neck.
By the time the cartridge expands the bullet is on it's way and the bullet is engaging the lands/rifling, which is what stabilizes the bullet.
So, there isn't anything to deform nor destabilize the bullet.
....................................
You can get them with a thumbhole stock, or at least you could.
I got my Saiga.308-ver.21 with a thumbhole, and MAA used to offer all the Saiga rifles with a wood thumbhole stock as a option.
I love thumbhole stocks.
How far back did you start the cut with the pipecutter? I'm doing this tonight. I ordered the same flash hider as you. Going to be on my way to lowes in about an hour to get the one you suggested.
The bullet guide is in, I'm going to get some locktite and drip it in there, too.
Funny thing is my SAIGA pro-mag magazines work, but I'll have to notch the factory 10 rounders down a bit with a dremel. I plan on possibly using it this deer season.
Also gotta pickup a wirebrush, and some sandpaper for a mossberg barrel project that I royally screwed up.
The bullet guide is in, I'm going to get some locktite and drip it in there, too.
Funny thing is my SAIGA pro-mag magazines work, but I'll have to notch the factory 10 rounders down a bit with a dremel. I plan on possibly using it this deer season.
Also gotta pickup a wirebrush, and some sandpaper for a mossberg barrel project that I royally screwed up.
ChileRelleno
Member
As far back as it'll go... Which should be approx 5/8".
Drip Loctite in? Loctite is just a dab on the threads and let dry.
Ok, so mine is not threaded, and I have cut into the barrel just a hair.
What should I do? Can I thread it myself?
I don't think the barrel is damaged enough to pose a risk, barely just nicked at the surface. If I could thread it, I could cover all this miss up.
What should I do? Can I thread it myself?
I don't think the barrel is damaged enough to pose a risk, barely just nicked at the surface. If I could thread it, I could cover all this miss up.
ChileRelleno
Member
Yeah, thread it.
You'll need the following tools, either buy'em or find someone who'll loan'em.
http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-597/SAIGA-AK47-7.62-TAT/Detail
http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-473/SAIGA-AK47-7.62-THREADING/Detail
http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-459/DIE-STOCK-HANDLE-SAIGA/Detail
Nothing to freak out over... iIf you don't thread it, some paint and it'll won't be noticeable.
You'd have to really have hacked into the barrel for it to be a concern.
You'll need the following tools, either buy'em or find someone who'll loan'em.
http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-597/SAIGA-AK47-7.62-TAT/Detail
http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-473/SAIGA-AK47-7.62-THREADING/Detail
http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-459/DIE-STOCK-HANDLE-SAIGA/Detail
Nothing to freak out over... iIf you don't thread it, some paint and it'll won't be noticeable.
You'd have to really have hacked into the barrel for it to be a concern.
Just wanted to say thanks for all of your help, ChileRelleno.
I smoothed it out as best as I could, and primed it. It looks acceptable now. I ordered the threading tools, I'm sure I can get that crush peel washer to push up against that stuff enough to even it out and make it look alright.
I'll never do that again, though!
I smoothed it out as best as I could, and primed it. It looks acceptable now. I ordered the threading tools, I'm sure I can get that crush peel washer to push up against that stuff enough to even it out and make it look alright.
I'll never do that again, though!
Alright, I got it threaded today, however, I think I need to cut about another 1/16th of an inch off the barrel shroud so that the peel washer can be even, when flipped the right way.
When flipped the wrong way, it all bolts down, but there is a small gap of empty threaded space inside the flash hider. Did you experience this, or think it could affect its performance?
Otherwise, I'm prepared to get a hose clamp and cut some more shroud off.
Weird thing is, my brain seems to be telling me my front sight has "slipped" to not be straight through this whole process. I Dunno though.
When flipped the wrong way, it all bolts down, but there is a small gap of empty threaded space inside the flash hider. Did you experience this, or think it could affect its performance?
Otherwise, I'm prepared to get a hose clamp and cut some more shroud off.
Weird thing is, my brain seems to be telling me my front sight has "slipped" to not be straight through this whole process. I Dunno though.
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ChileRelleno
Member
I wouldn't worry about an 1/16", nor a internal gap between the barrel's crown and FH's base. Been discussed before and the conclusion is that there is no effect on a FH.
If I was going to take a 1/16" off, I'd just pencil the mark and use a flat file.
It is pretty freaking hard to knock a dimpled FSB out of whack
I think you're a worrisome individual.
So true, so true.
So much in fact, that I think I took too much shroud off, and now have a gap in between the fully tightened flash hider, and the peel washer.
Any suggestions?
I was thinking just another peel washer. Ya know.. invert them or something?
Thanks,
Steve
SSN Vet
Member
Random musings on x39 Saiga conversions.....
1.) $249 shipped from Stanley's was the good ol' days of Saiga conversions, but the conversion parts have gone down a lot since then.... almost making the total cost a wash.
2.) 16" barrels have a lot going for them.
3.) I soooooo wish I had a non-stepped chamber... mine is really hard on brass.
4.) Bullet guides can be made from a stub of 3/4 black iron pipe, a hack saw, file and drill bit.
5.) The Russian's use some really hard steel alloys on the trunnions, so save yourself the grief and use a #8 flat head screw, as the #6 taps break way to easy in that hard steel.
6.) I'd rather file the tab on mil. spec. mags than file the hook on the rifle's mag. catch, as I like the 10 round mag for shooting from the bench and prone and am not at all concerned about being compatable with other peoples mags.
7.) In the big scheme of things, x39 is not a hard kicking round and the rifle shoots fine with out a muzzle brake.
8.) I like the stock Saiga hand guard.... especially when it's slotted, which is an easy job on a mill for even a marginally proficient hack like me.
9.) the Nato length stock gives you LOP ~14-1/2".... which is much more comfy to shoot if your tall (or a knuckle dragger).
10.) The stock sights work well enough out to 100 yds.
11.) if you need to count it as a made in the USA part, make sure it says so on the part. Can't hurt to be obvious.
12.) The Tapco single hook G2 actually gives you a pretty darn good trigger pull.
13.) You really don't need the shepherds hook retainer thingy.... just put a couple binder bolts in your receiver holes and re-install the spring so it hooks on the binder bolt and catches back in the pin slots like it's supposed to.
14.) Putting the stock BHO back in isn't worth the effort.
15.) notching the safety give a more reliable and easy to engage BHO.
16.) steel mil. surp. mags make a pretty good improvised blunt force weapon.
and of course.....
** Saiga conversions are a LOT of fun.
1.) $249 shipped from Stanley's was the good ol' days of Saiga conversions, but the conversion parts have gone down a lot since then.... almost making the total cost a wash.
2.) 16" barrels have a lot going for them.
3.) I soooooo wish I had a non-stepped chamber... mine is really hard on brass.
4.) Bullet guides can be made from a stub of 3/4 black iron pipe, a hack saw, file and drill bit.
5.) The Russian's use some really hard steel alloys on the trunnions, so save yourself the grief and use a #8 flat head screw, as the #6 taps break way to easy in that hard steel.
6.) I'd rather file the tab on mil. spec. mags than file the hook on the rifle's mag. catch, as I like the 10 round mag for shooting from the bench and prone and am not at all concerned about being compatable with other peoples mags.
7.) In the big scheme of things, x39 is not a hard kicking round and the rifle shoots fine with out a muzzle brake.
8.) I like the stock Saiga hand guard.... especially when it's slotted, which is an easy job on a mill for even a marginally proficient hack like me.
9.) the Nato length stock gives you LOP ~14-1/2".... which is much more comfy to shoot if your tall (or a knuckle dragger).
10.) The stock sights work well enough out to 100 yds.
11.) if you need to count it as a made in the USA part, make sure it says so on the part. Can't hurt to be obvious.
12.) The Tapco single hook G2 actually gives you a pretty darn good trigger pull.
13.) You really don't need the shepherds hook retainer thingy.... just put a couple binder bolts in your receiver holes and re-install the spring so it hooks on the binder bolt and catches back in the pin slots like it's supposed to.
14.) Putting the stock BHO back in isn't worth the effort.
15.) notching the safety give a more reliable and easy to engage BHO.
16.) steel mil. surp. mags make a pretty good improvised blunt force weapon.
and of course.....
** Saiga conversions are a LOT of fun.
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ChileRelleno
Member
Ideally you should trim the excess barrel length and recrown... Which couldn't hurt.
But the easiest route is two crush washers. I don't care for peel washers.
But the easiest route is two crush washers. I don't care for peel washers.
ChileRelleno
Member
HUGE FREAKING PICS MAN!
Do us all a favor and resize them suckers, please & thank you.
Do us all a favor and resize them suckers, please & thank you.
JHenry
Member
What if you wanted to install a traditonal AK style handguard, i heard the factory saigas arnt compatable out of the box, and i hate the way the sporter looks.
ChileRelleno
Member
Very easy to do.
New gas tube with retaining brackets, http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-405/AK47-Saiga-gas-tube/Detail
Lower hand guard retaining bracket, there are several types, this is just one example.
http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-460/Saiga-Lower-Hand-guard/Detail
Now add standard furniture.
The Sarge
Member
Just FYI...Saiga's in all but 12 and 20 gauge shotguns are $299 at Classic Arms right now. Plenty in stock.
JHenry
Member
Cool, what was the total amount of time and cash you dropped into it?
ChileRelleno
Member
$617.00 and about 1hr each (2hrs) on the conversion and slotting the original forearm.
Rail Driver
Member
Nice job, Chile. Here's a link to the one I just finished:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=618289
I'm into it for a total of $520, 45 mins to 1 hr doing the actual conversion, and ~4 hrs working on the handguard (cut the vent holes and stippled parts of it).
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=618289
I'm into it for a total of $520, 45 mins to 1 hr doing the actual conversion, and ~4 hrs working on the handguard (cut the vent holes and stippled parts of it).
JHenry
Member
very acceptable price range but im looking to get a classic style ak and the wood furniture and slant break seem easily do-able but what about adding in a cleaning rod? classicarms is selling them but can the saiga even hold it?
Ive been hunting around for a MAK-90 and just ordering a stock set from ironwoods and threading the barrel. The final price would probably add up to the same as the saiga conversion with less of a hassle but the saiga will likely have a much prettier fit and finish.
Still this is helpful because i definitly want to do a saiga in .410 or 12(the .410 is very intriguing to me, i just had shoulder surgery and a mag dump of 12 guage sounds painful lol and the .410 is about $300 cheaper) but there is no way around the conversion for the shotties.
Ive been hunting around for a MAK-90 and just ordering a stock set from ironwoods and threading the barrel. The final price would probably add up to the same as the saiga conversion with less of a hassle but the saiga will likely have a much prettier fit and finish.
Still this is helpful because i definitly want to do a saiga in .410 or 12(the .410 is very intriguing to me, i just had shoulder surgery and a mag dump of 12 guage sounds painful lol and the .410 is about $300 cheaper) but there is no way around the conversion for the shotties.
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