Same Caliber, Different Rifle Question

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jwrowland77

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How would you handle this?

I had a Savage Axis .308 22" barrel that I was shooting in FTR competitions. I sold that last night and will be purchasing a Rem 700 SPS Varmint .308 26" barrel to use in comps.

I plan to use my Hornady tool and find the ogive measurement in the new rifle. If the bullets are off the lands from the rounds I have already made and not into the lands I had planned to shoot them and see how they do.

Would it be safe to tryout reloads I made for the Savage in the Rem, as long as they're not in the lands?

My reloads are near max/max per the manuals.

How many fps increase am I looking at possibly gaining with the extra 4" on the barrel? I was thinking around 30-40fps increase.
 
While I am not familiar with the Savage rifles as to the lead my experience with Remington based on my older Remington 700 BDL VSSF in .308 has shown me Remington has a pretty long lead. Case in point is using Sierra 168 gn HPBT match bullets the loading manual suggest a COL of 2.8". Taking a sized case and using the rifle to seat a bullet I get a COL of 2.931. Granted that would be right on the lands but even if I back it up .020" I am still very long.

I would see what the lead is in the new rifle and likely if the loaded rounds chamber I would shoot them. Mainly because the lead allows it. As to the close to maximum loads? They shot in the Savage so they should shoot in the Remington.

Just me but I would shoot the loaded stuff and not worry about it. However, again that is just me. What you decide is your decision and I am sure there will be more feedback. :)

Ron
 
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That's kind of what I was thinking. Savage has a fairly long lead as well. Actually, so long, that if I had loaded to the lands, the bullet would be falling out.

I have a rem 700 BDL in 7mm RM that has a long lead in it and is a pure tack driver.
 
Can I pull the bullets, take decapping pin out, resize in FL sizing die, then neck size them with the expanding ball and then do like I normally would as far as powder workup and bullet?
 
Can I pull the bullets, take decapping pin out, resize in FL sizing die, then neck size them with the expanding ball and then do like I normally would as far as powder workup and bullet?
Yes, you could do that but if they chamber without a problem and you get a smooth bolt closure why?

Ron
 
As long as they chamber fine you should be OK. However, if the Rem chamber is a tad longer to the shoulder, you could find yourself throwing some brass in the scrap bin due to incipient case head separations, and even more so of a concern if the brass has already had some loads run through them.

GS
 
I would go on the safe side and at least drop 2 grains and work up to the max load .5 at a time. At 3 loads each level that is only 9 rounds.
As a bonus, you may find that one of the trial loads is superior in your new rifle.
 
I probably would have given the old brass, both loaded and fired, to the new owner, and started with new brass, but you are likely to be OK shooting them in the new gun.
 
If you FL resize there is no need to neck size. Also no need to take out the decapper, just go slow and careful, then reprime and load as usual. If your loads are on the hot side, try one and look for pressure signs. They might work as is. I would pull, resize and start over, just me.
 
As for me, I'd say pull em and start over. I do have the exact same remmy you plan on buying and can say it does handle hot rounds very well before you start to see common pressure signs I.e. Sticky bolt lift, flat primers, ejector marks etc. If you want to shoot me a PM I can give you some loads that are working very well for me in my rifle.
 
You said you were near the max load. You really should work your way back up. If the load is safe you can just use the ones you already have loaded. It's possible the new rifle will have a tighter chamber or bore though.
 
Even If they fit in the new chamber, they are still max loads - not what I would begin with in a new rifle. Go with Hovercat's suggestion and load up a few at charges ranging from 5%-10% lower, building up to the max loads you have. If you don't get pressure signs at lower levels, your max rounds will be fine to shoot if they fit the new chamber.
 
Awesome. I appreciate all the feedback.

I bought the new rifle tonight. I'm ready to get it sighted in.

I'll probably lower a couple grains and workup to max again with my favorite load if they fit right. The powder I like shoots best on the hot end of stuff (2000-MR). I can't wait to see the results in a better rifle.
 
Ok, I ran all the rounds through to see if bolt would close to begin with. Out of the 300 rounds that are loaded, 200 ran through just fine, bolt closed just fine, which are the ones that were FL resized.

The other 100 that were neck sized only, the bolt would close and open, but very tight and I had to really pull back on the bolt to open it up. Looks like these, I'll have to definitely pull and run through the FL sizer without the decapping pin, or at least back it out enough to not hit the primer. Then run them through the neck sizer.

Or can I just run them through the FL sizer? Of course afterwards, I'd make sure they didn't need trimmed though.
 
It sounds like you have the ammo question already answered. As for the increase in velocity with 4" more barrel, I would guess you might get ~120 fps more.

Please don't forget the range report and a few pics of the new rifle wouldn't hurt either. lol

Congrats on the new toy!
 
It sounds like you have the ammo question already answered. As for the increase in velocity with 4" more barrel, I would guess you might get ~120 fps more.

Please don't forget the range report and a few pics of the new rifle wouldn't hurt either. lol

Congrats on the new toy!


If I can can get around 100fps, that'll put be around 2750fps for my 175gr SMK load. I plan on trying it for 1000yd comp. 120 would have me pushing towards 2770fps.

I will most definitely include a range report with MV and groupings. Oh, and pictures of the new setup once I get it all put together. I had to order a new 20moa base for it tonight. As soon as I get that in I'll be ready to go shoot and get sighted in, and then shoot my test loads. I should have my workup ready to go try out by time it comes in.

I'm itching though to get it out and shoot it. Next will be a new stock to replace the factory stock.
 
I went to 2750+ in a 24" barrel with 168s & RL15, but backed back off to 2700+ to tighten up groups. I did not feel I had enough safety margin left to continue on to another sweet spot, if there was even another one there. I have not loaded any 175s yet. I have them, I just haven't fooled with them. Besides, 2700ish was easier on me the brass and the rifle, so I am good with it. People like long barrels in F Class for a reason. :)
 
Yeah. I see why. The powder I'm using, didn't even start tightening up until the upper end of the scale. I'm sure I could go higher but I'm not going to because I like the groups I'm getting where I'm at. It'll be fun to see what I get on the MagnetoSpeed when I get to shoot it. I'm thinking I should have no problem hitting the 1000yd mark like I want to do this year while keeping it from going sub-sonic.
 
my son just bought a new 700 heavy barrel .308. there is not enough bullet left in the case to set it close to the rifling.
 
If you full length resize, there is no need to neck size. A FL die sizes the neck too. Now is a good time to adjust your dies to your new rifle. Adjust it down on the cases that are too big until they chamber fine. That way you are not over working your brass. The "cam over" is not always the best way to adjust your dies.
 
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