Savage Model 110C question

[airedaleman]

Recently picked up a Model 110C Series H 25-06 (factory 24" s/s barrel, thank God!). S/N is A593XXX and have been told it was manufactured in 1970.Metal and bore are in top-notch shape, but the wood is banged up a bit. Wears a nice Balvar5 scope. Rig cost me $262.62, so I'm a pretty happy old man. Here's the question:
I never handled a 110 before (am familiar with a raft of other bolt actions, though), and the bolt lift seems very stiff when cocking the rifle. Is there something going on here or is this characteristic of the 110 design?

 

[Cee Zee]

A 110 is not the smoothest rifle on earth but they're accurate and durable. I bought an early 90's 110 for $225 a few years back. I'm sure it would cost more now. Someone had monkeyed with the barrel cutting it down and re-crowning it. I had a trial period though and it shoots fine so I kept it. They also mounted scout type iron sights. It makes a great scout type rifle in it's current form. Some day I'll buy another barrel and put a better trigger in it. But the walnut stock on that rifle warped after I had it a few months. I suspect it was warped before and someone straightened it and it didn't hold. I put another stock on it. I still think I came out way ahead. It even had a scope on it although it was fairly cheap. I got some cash out of it when I sold that scope. I don't remember how much. It's been too long ago. it was about $25 though so really I paid about $200 for the rifle. Not a bad deal at all considering how easy it is to fix up a 110.

 

[savanahsdad]

stiff to cock , or hard to lift after it is cocked ? , in other words, if you lift the bolt and cock the gun , then close the bolt ,is it hard to lift after it is cocked ? hard bolt lift after the gun is cocked could be dirty, dry,or maybe rusty bolt lugs , if it's only stiff when cocking , remove the bolt , you will see what looks like a black button just in front of the bolt handle , make sure it is clean and lubed

I own 4 Savage bolt actions , there very easy to work on and tune up

 

[dodge]

Also check the action screws to see if they're too long. Loosen the front one and see if thee is any difference in how smoothly the bolt works. With the rifle being an older one the wood may have shrunk allowing the screw to bind on the bolt. I've had this happen to me a couple of different times and you need to just grind the screw just enough to allow the bolt to work freer.

 

[airedaleman]

Savanahsdad, thanks for the tip about the bolt. The button was gunked up a bit. I think a thorough cleaning of the bolt will help too. How do you disassemble it?

 

[savanahsdad]

Savanahsdad, thanks for the tip about the bolt. The button was gunked up a bit. I think a thorough cleaning of the bolt will help too. How do you disassemble it?

remove bolt from gun , push the button up , it's stiff , I just use a rag and push with my thumb . some guys use a small wood block , I guess this depends on how strong your thumbs are , it will snap up and forward , when I say up I don't mean out, , you are going to push the button so it follows the cut-out on the bolt , the button dose not come out at this point , this uncocks the firing pin , now the spring is not full cocked, and you can remove the screw from the rear of the bolt ,(flat blade on old ones & hex head on newer guns ) it is a standard right hand thread ( rightie tighty , lefty lossie ) after screw is removed , bolt handle will slide off , if it is gummed up or rusted you may need to lightly tap it , now there is a sleeve with a slot that has a hole at one end this has to be slid so the hole is under the button , now just left the button out , and the firing pin will now come out with the sleeve , at this point with the firing out if you want you can slid out the pin in back of the bolt lugs and remove them to for a good cleaning and lube (I use gun grease on the lugs) make sure you lay out everything the way you took in apart , now after you have it back together you will need to re-cock the firing pin by pushing the button back and down , , again I just use a rag and my thumb , however I have done this many , many times , you may want to use a wood block or a brass pin , how ever you do it, is up to you, but it has to be cocked before it can go back in the action ,

Now.. I don't know if you're a nuts a bolts kind of guy , I do know I'm no teacher or writer , so if this is not clear enough for you , please ask before you start , what's easy for me may not be for others , I'm starting to think I'm the only one on here that can run a Lee LoadMaster press LOL..

 

[savanahsdad]

Airedale man : did you get the bolt apart ? more importantly did you get it back together ?

 

[airedaleman]

Savanahsdad, thanks again; your explanation is good and clear. One question, though. This gun's bolt cap has the slotted head. Big coin good enough enough to break it loose?

Also, apologize for taking so long to respond. Been sick as a dog with the flu for more than a week. Writing this tonight represents a major breakthrough!

 

[savanahsdad]

Savanahsdad, thanks again; your explanation is good and clear. One question, though. This gun's bolt cap has the slotted head. Big coin good enough enough to break it loose?

Also, apologize for taking so long to respond. Been sick as a dog with the flu for more than a week. Writing this tonight represents a major breakthrough!

Sick as a dog ? Airedales don't get sick



if you don't have a screwdriver that big I guess you could use a steel washer and a vice-grip , I just use a big screwdriver , a coin may work or it might bend

 

[Steel Horse Rider]

If you are going to work on your guns and do not have a gunsmith's screwdriver set you might want to get one. That way the slotted screws on your piece won't all be buggered up with burrs..

 

[savanahsdad]

If you are going to work on your guns and do not have a gunsmith's screwdriver set you might want to get one. That way the slotted screws on your piece won't all be buggered up with burrs..

for small stuff I would agree , I have a set of gunsmith screwdrivers , and another with the torkdriver for scopes only, but for the big slot on the Savage's bolt end cap, I use a big screwdriver that says Wight tool on one side and Massie Ferguson on the other , you would have to try pretty hard to bugger up that big end cap slot,