Use of the cane.

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Carl Levitian

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There's many ways to use the cane, but I wonder if one should consider the most common means of an attack by a would be criminal?

Most people I know assume that a cane/walking stick will be used as a club due to the long length of it. After many years of practice, I like to always use the stick in a two handed riot stick way of blending very close range blocking and thrusts. Most street criminals like to close up to a very close range by surprise, and use a knife for a threat. In this area, (Washington D.C. and Baltimore metropolis) the cheap knife is a favorite weapon with the street punks. Cheap and easy to get, and just as easy to ditch down a sewer, the knife has the quiet threat of making some victim "give it up" as they like to put it. Cheap kitchen knives seem to be the most common knife, aside from box cutters. Guns seem to be held by the more serious criminal out to rob a convenience store or commit a drive by on a rival gang member.

It would seem like the most likely first use of a stick is to block an incoming threat to your health. Like a knife or bottle or club of some type. Combining a block and instant return strike is very easy to do using the army pugil stick way of bayonet fighting. This gives you two end on powerful stikes that are very hard to deflect or block, as well as blocking the first strike of your attacker. I admit I very well could be a bit prejudiced in my stick use, from both army and police experience, but both times in my life where I got formal training in use of a stick, it was always two handed. Never, in all my instruction, both in the army and in the Colorado Law Enforement Acadamy, did any instructor show any one handed use of the stick. In the 1970's when I was a police officer, the Koga stick was in vogue, and it was a smooth equal ended stick that was used for block and thrust moves. In real life in crowed bars, it worked great. Requires no room for a swing, can be used in very close quarters, is very hard to block an oncoming ram. It should work equally as well in a narrow hallway or elevator. The front end of the stick can be used like the bayonet end, and the root knob handle of your walking stick is the butt stroke end. If you're lucky, the low life will try to grab the stick and pull it away from you. Let him have it. When he pulls, you go in with it and give him an "up from down under" butt stroke in either the throat or face. This is always a shock to them, and often is a fight stopper, depending on what you damage. A stick has two ends, use them. They both will work in injuring your attacker to where you can disengage and get out of Dodge.

I make all my sticks the exact same length. With the head of the stick resting on the floor, I have my better half mark it where it is even with the inside crease of my wrist. Do this with the shoes on that you wear the most. Since I wear New Balance cross trainers in the winter and Keen sandals in the summer, this works out even. The right length of the stick is important. This way there is no adjusting from stick to stick because of minor difference in size.

Probable the poorest use of a stick is to regulate it to a club.
 
Carl well written and reasoned. With my time spent every year in Asia and the crowded sidewalks there have certainly been times when a cane crossed my mind.

The in vogue thing is for guys on motorcycles to drive buy and snatch a purse by cutting the strap or just yanking hard enough to dislodge or break the strap. The next step is to confront with a knife and if the valuables or purse are not given freely the people die. Big stink for some Australian travel agents who got killed a few months ago in front of their 5 star hotel. Bet it did not help the resorts image with the Aussies!!!

Usually when out we are shopping and have taken a tuk tuk taxi or one of our motor bikes. Not easy to carry a cane even though I understand their value.

They actually sell the collapsible steel (like police have with a carry case for your belt) in many of the open air markets but I figure by the time you were able to deploy with someone serious you would have already sprung a leak.

I always liked the look of the Spartan helmet and armor but alas it would draw to much attention......
 
I particularly like the tactic of exploiting the baddie's instinct to grab your stick. I know from experience this is the first thing an empty handed attacker tries. Aikido has several bo and hanbo techniques that use this exact idea to throw the opponent to the ground or wrench the arm. But there's nothing wrong with simply going with his pulling motion to smash him the face!
 
Your first objective when carrying a cane is to be aware of your surroundings. If you find yourself having to block you have already screwed up. An unprovoked cold blooded attack by a stranger is exceedingly rare. Bad guys almost always give away their intentions. Even if he doesn’t he still has to get well within the reach of your cane before he can hit, stab or grab you. DON”T LET HIM. If you will pay attention and not let people get inside your circle they can’t attack first. The beauty of a cane is that it gives you a tremendous reach advantage. If someone approaches you should subtly circle to the outside with your cane hand away from the bad guy where he can’t grab it but you can still get plenty of travel time on your strike.

I tell my students to think of themselves as bull fighters rather than the bull. As long as you side step and circle you can keep the bad guy out on the end of your stick where he has to play your game. Remember, A cane is a distance weapon just like a rifle. Neither work very well against a wrestler. Maintain your awareness and distance and don’t let potentially hostile male strangers crowd you.
 
No Owen, I want him close. I want him within arms reach of me, and I'm not doing any dancing around to keep my distance. I want him close enough that when I lunge with a good thrust, I want the butt end of my stick still even with my body, not having to reach out there. I don't like to extend too far. I like being close enough that when I move, he's not going to be able to counter or dodge because I'm so close. I know what I'm going to do, while he's following his own script for the assault. I know his game and I'm going to destroy his game plan. I want him so close that he thinks he can grab me, and if he's not close enough, I just may have to take a small step in his direction. The closer he is, the more over confident he will be, and I like that. I'll take an over confident would be attacker within arms reach of my striking range any day.

If I don't have a gun, then close is good. A cane is not like a rifle, nor am I a bull fighter. What I am is somebody who wants to put down an attacker as fast as possible by hurting him very badly, very fast, and it's over in a few seconds. I'm not young enough to dance around with someone half my age. Nor do I intend to. Think of the Q-ship. I intend to be sneaky, dirty, and underhanded as I can. I don't want them to see it coming.
 
For lots of folks who have never done any street dancing.... the opening phase can move from threat, to posturing and/or attacking.... sometimes all in one fluid transition and your opponent (if they have any experience at all...) will do his/her best to make it a surprise attack if possible.

I recently read two of Stieg Larssen's books (Girl with the Dragon.... Girl who played with fire) and found myself reading the best prescription for handling sudden violence I've ever read - all done by a very small woman... The ability to instantly transition from going about your business to total violence is something that's been pretty much bred out of urban man. Done properly your opponent should go down (or flee) with a look of complete surprise.... and in my experience it's just the only way to respond (unless you plan on being a "good victim" - and there are times and places where that might be appropriate, if you want to risk it....).
 
Done properly your opponent should go down (or flee) with a look of complete surprise.... and in my experience it's just the only way to respond.
I've found that to be true too in my own experience, especially with bullies (for lack of a better term) when I was younger. I remember that exact look from a guy who pushed someone too far and took a kick to the chest so hard he collided with the cement wall 3-4 feet behind him.
 
Carl,

I'm new to using a cane/walking stick as a defensive tool. I have my first class next month and my only real learning so far is through this site as well as Michael Janich's Martial Cane. With that said, I picture it as a balance between what you and Owen have said. If I have the space and one attacker I'd prefer to use Owen's style more. With that said, if I was in an area with less space such as an isle of a airplane/store or crowded area I'd use your approach. If I was in an open space with multiple attackers I'd use both "styles/approaches" for lack of better terms.

Like I said, I am very new to using a cane as a self defense tool and am eager to learn. I know through classes I'll continue to learn and work these things out. However, based on the limited information learned so far in this area, and my other area of self defense I've trained in the past few years, it seems like both approaches could be effective depending on the circumstances.
 
If you let the bad guy get close enough to be within arm’s reach he is close enough to hit you and this usually comes down to whoever moves first. That being said, anyone who carries a stick should learn how to fight with it in close quarters in case you get put in that position. I look at it as a ‘have to’ rather than a ‘want to’. For example, back when I worked as a bouncer I kept the butt half of a pool cue handy in case there was trouble. I often had to bump through a shoulder to shoulder crowd to get to the problem. When that happened I held the stick by both ends across my chest at a 45 degree angle sort of like the way you would hold a kayak paddle. If someone were to grab it they would have to grab somewhere between my hands where I had leverage and could easily twist it free. I also could block with the triangle structure of the stick and my forearm. With this method you can shove or thrust with either end of the middle of the stick. Once space is created you can simply let go of either end and cycle the stick into a circular strike with the other hand or hit with the butt if things are too tight to get a good swing.

I equate close quarter thrusts with a stick to close quarter strikes with knees, elbows and head butts.
These are very useful strikes if you get put in a position to have to use them, but I would NEVER intentionally initiate a fight with a knee strike to the groin if I have the option to kick the groin from a safer distance. I would Never chose an elbow or head butt if I were far enough away to punch. The same with a stick. The advantage is reach and if you circle and move off at an angle you can keep the bad guy out of arms reach, at least for the few seconds that it takes to land a couple or three fight ending blows.
 
As I see it, a stick armed defender should not avoid allowing a knife armed attacker to close in, the simple thing being that your main advantage is having far greater reach. Keep them out where you can see them easily, where any committed attack will require movement of the feet, and where they cannot so much as cut your hand. The close fight is far faster and far more simple chance is involved.

The problem is, of course, as pointed out in this thread, that people will tend to begin an attack up close, or will close during the fight. Keeping someone at distance is not easy. Bullfighters do it by being more agile than the bull. We can't rely on that difference in agility. There are plenty of techniques (footwork and stickwork) that are intended to keep distance, but a DETERMINED attacker (probably not a mere thief) WILL close soon enough if they want to.

We need to be comfortable at both measures, and have techniques that will help us to keep the fight at the more advantageous one to us.

Closing in to strike with one end when someone grabs the other is indeed a powerful technique, but do you really want to be getting in that close against a knife armed attacker if you don't need to? The butt strike from below is extremely powerful and often surprising, but perhaps against a knife it would be better to make the butt strike more horizontal and step around them (away from the knife) rather than into them. With any luck, the strike will push them away and create distance so you have the advantage again.
 
So true! If you have been in fights, as an adult, it is, in my case, job related.

Working as a Bouncer in Liverpool UK, you find that instant attack works, even against a group of up to 4 individuals.

Most fights tend to be, Eye balling, talking, pushing, wild swings.

Going immediately into attack, once it is obvious you have been targeted, is a major plus. My last altercation, in 2004, I was 69 years of age, happened in an elevator.

I was at a Firearms Instructor Seminar in Dayton, Ohio. My Wife and I in an elevator, just going up one floor, well dressed man, early 40s? Stepped in as the door was closing, suite, tie, tasseled loafers, martini glass in right hand.

Glanced at me, older white guy, 511 tan pants, boots, baggy sweater. Looked to wards my Wife, Indian background, born in the West Indies, aged 60, looked 40! Then lovely, still now!

"I need a hug" He said, and lifted his left leg to stride toward my Wife, the Lady with eyes like saucers! I went under his arm, before his foot made it to the floor, and drove him into the rear of the elevator, and the wooden wall protector! That must of hurt.

You tend to be fair game with only one foot on the ground. When he opened his eyes, my left trigger finger was an inch from his eye!

"Keep away from my Wife, DONT move" We left, he stayed. Didn't spill his drink either.

Instant attack, you have it or you do not.

A tip of my City Stick in to a kidney would work too. I was carrying a Glock 17, never thought of using it.

Wondered what he told his Wife about the huge bruise on his back?
 
It is my preference not to cane fight. Not that I dont like it, I love it, and practice daily.
If I have to I will engage swiftly without words, or mercy.
My main defense and source personal pride is my situational awareness. I scan constantly, evaluating, reading my surroundings, if you will, for threats.
I have only been "tried" twice in the last 5 yrs.
First time, I caught the perp in my scan, read his intent, and when he started to close quickly, I engaged with rewarding results, that gave me warm fuzzies for weeks.
The second time I was with the grandkids and noticed the mook about 40 feet out eyeballing me. He was talking on a cell, but moving deliberatly towards me in a straight line with a sneering look. About 20 feet out I stopped, brought the cane to port arms and stared back, no words. He froze, yelled F/u and did a 180. I called the cops with a good description.
 
Any defender with sense wants to keep the attacker from reaching him.

John
 
A cane gives many advantages in an altercation.

Prime is the ability to engage at a greater distance than your attacker thereby ending the altercation sooner at a distance less likely to result in you being injured.

Intentionally throwing away the advantage of keeping an assailant at the greatest distance from you would appear to the reasonable and experienced person to be foolish.

There are times in which the engagement distance is shorter than the full extended length of the cane and being able to use the cane in cramped quarters is also important. The cane provides advantages even in these space limitations, if you learn how to use it in such an environment. Ignoring these advantages is also foolish.

I suppose the best approach is to use all the advantages you have at your disposal whether you're able to engage at a distance or forced to defend yourself close in.
 
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I'm pretty good with a carbine up close, but if I had to face someone who was armed with a handgun, I'd want to be 50-100 meters away. That way, I could still hit him easily, and he'd had a hard time hitting me.

I'm pretty good with a stick up close and very personal, but if I had to face someone who was armed with a knife, I'd like to be out of his immediate range. Hurting some random street thug isn't so important to me that I'm willing to risk debilitating injury or death because I still have something to prove: I just want to go home with my person and honor intact.

John
 
There is a world of difference between being a "stick fighter" and being a fighter with a stick. A stick fighter has only one weapon and is totaly dependant on it. If someone crashes your distance you need other options than trying to adapt a tool that is really not suitable at that range. The same is true if you are carrying a firearm. It is hard to shoot your way out of a full nelson.

If you carry a cane for self-defense and are not a well-rounded fighter because of age or infirmity, you had better understand that maintaining proper distance is critical.
 
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^^ This. I carry a blackthorn stick time/places where my EDC handgun can't go. Airports, for one. I have some empty hand martial arts training. If the bad guy closes, gets a hand on my stick, then it's time for a groin or knee kick or even forehead to face.
 
One thing about a cane is no one sees it as a weapon. In a case of mistaken identity, a friend was attacked by an undercover police officer who thought he was a fugitive. He beat the cop into a coma and won a lawsuit. He was guilty of nothing except a desire for bacon. The cop didn't identify himself until after the fact.

If you were to meet my friend he is very slim and a cancer survivor. No one would expect that kind of a counter attack from him. He has military training but nothing special. Just your normal pugil stick training everyone receives in boot camp and A.I.T.
 
I take it your friend was carrying a walking cane?

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A cane functions as an extension of the hand. It gives you the ability to hit an opponent outside of hands reach. Being skilled with a stick or cane is much like being skilled with kicks. A good Karate man can defeat a boxer if he can maintain proper distance just long enough to deliver a solid kick to the body or legs. All the kicking skill in the World will do him little good if he gets tied up and has to wrestle. Sure he might be able to stomp the other fighters foot or something but the best way to use kicks is not in close.

This concept of maintaining proper distance is critical for using a 3 foot cane as a weapon also. You don’t want to clench or tie up with the bad guy. It generally negates your advantage of having a cane. If the bad guy moves first you should sidestep or circle and keep him out on the end of your cane. If you attack, it should not be a direct straight line charge, but rather pass him at a 45 degree angle and “clothes line” him with your cane on the way by.

Anyone who has played high school football should understand the concept of how to juke, head fake and shuck a tackler. These same general techniques apply when the bad guy tries to close the distance when you have cane. For example, we have all seen bad boxing matches where one boxer bores the crowd by running from the other. Even though they are both confined to a 20 by 20 ring, one boxer can still pretty much avoid being hit by dancing around the ring in circles. Some times this goes on for several rounds and the spectators start to boo at the lack of action. All you have to do with a cane is avoid closing with the other fighter for SEVERAL SECONDS. That is pretty easy once you have trained for it and realize that maintaining distance is part of your objective and train accordingly.

If you carry a cane for self-defense and are not able to function as a well-rounded fighter because of age or infirmity, you had better understand that maintaining distance is critical. If you are still young and healthy, LEARN HOW TO FIGHT at all ranges from close contact grappling to rifle distance. It can save your life.
 
He has a walking cane made of heart cedar. His canes are beautiful. He will find a piece of cedar that has rotted to the heart for his raw material.

I use green hickory for stock for my canes. I peel the bark and allow the hickory to cure. The pieces that don't crack or warp I use for canes. The pieces with unusual patterns I keep for my self. The rest I give to friends who like to whittle. The leftovers make sturdy garden sticks.
 
When trouble starts you should immediatly adopt a 45 degree angle version of a 'basketball stance' with your feet a little wider than shoulder width, a slight bend in your knees and your weight evenly distributed on the balls of both feet so that you can move in any direction. You should be as cat footed as if you were playing guard in a basketball game. If you stand there with your feet close togrther and your knees locked, there is no way that you can react and move fast. Like the old saying goes, you can not 'get caught flat footed' or you will get bowled over.
 
Owen your rightbut 30 years of basketball and running plus 6 sprains and 4 dislocations has left my right ankle shot. So my feet don't move catlike anymore. But I always stop and stand at 45 degrees too many years of MA training it has become a automatic reaction.
 
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