Scope mount for RWS-34

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JN01

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I am about to order a RWS model 34, but rather than buy the package with the crappy scope, I would like to mount a better quality one, probably a Nikon Prostaff Target EFR (rated for airgun use).

If I understand correctly, the rifle comes with an integral base. The Pyramyd Air website recommends a Leapers Accushot 1-Pc Mount w/1" Rings, 3/8" dovetail. It doesn't say anything about droop compensation for this mount, though the Model 34 Combo does indicate it comes with a Leapers droop compensating mount.

Is droop compensation necessary on all break barrels, or is it dependent on which scope you use?
 
The rws mount I got a bass pro is very solid. The regular mounts made the scope move over time. The rws brand stays put. A little pricey but no problems.
 
Check pyramid air for all things air (and spring and CO2...) powered. Keep in mind that the same scope you put on your high powered deer rifle will likely fail in less than 100 shots on a a spring-piston air rifle, due to the back and forth recoil. Make sure your scope is rated for a spring-piston gun.
 
I didn't know Bass Pro carried much for air gun stuff. I have one near me, I'll check them out.

I have already have that particular model of Nikon scope on a 10/22, Nikon says they are OK for airguns. I've read good reviews on them from people mounting them on springers.
 
I doubt there would be any need for a off-set 'droop compensating' mount if your rifle is halfway built right.

I have two Beeman barrel cocking springers with normal air rifle mounts on them and there was no problem sighting them in.

rc
 
I doubt there would be any need for a off-set 'droop compensating' mount if your rifle is halfway built right.

I have two Beeman barrel cocking springers with normal air rifle mounts on them and there was no problem sighting them in.

This will be my first air rifle. From what I read on various airgun sites, I was under the impression that barrel droop was common on barrel cocking guns, even quality ones like RWS and Beeman. I guess maybe I need to get the gun first and see whether it needs to be compensated or not.

Rodinal, thanks for the links.
 
When I bought my 34, the package with the scope was on sale for $10 more than the bare rifle. I bought it assuming I'd replace the scope, but it turned out to be a great deal - the scope is not fantastic, but it's good enough. Reasonably clear, and the AO works very well. Found a pellet it likes, and it shoots very accurately. So far, the scope is holding up fine. I definitely got my $10 worth!
 
I'd pay an extra $10 too, but $50 is a little more than I want to spend on something I will most likely replace.
 
Tuning the gun, mostly just replacing the main seal with a better one will reduce the abuse the gun puts on the scope. You can also sand the face of the seal to be thinner thus raising the compression ratio which also helps, and depending on the gun can help a lot. Plus it bumps power and reduces hold sensitivity. It also reduces the chance of the scope slipping on the rail. I wouldn't bother with a scope mount that has some angle built in, plus they're expensive.
I would consider shimming the scope to match the barrel droop. How much they droop varies with each gun. Shimming helps with accuracy and keeping the scope on target. None of this may make sense, but it's true and I can explain if needed.
My best scope is a nikon, and not airgun rated. Since I tune all my guns I have never broken a scope. I also don't have problems with them sliding.
My favorite scope mount is a cheapie one-piece mount that is sold under several names, but the ones I have are Center Point that I got from Crosman and are the medium height #CPM1PA-25M. Most guns come with high mounts, like the RWS, but the medium looks much better imo because the scope sits lower, plus it helps with accuracy. The medium doesn't fit all scopes, for example a 40mm is about the limit, and if you have a fatter AO it may not fit, or the caps may not fit. The last gun I put them on with a generic 3-9x40AO Centerpoint the gap between the AO ring and gun is just a couple thou, no room for the caps unless I trim them, which is worth it imo. The price has gone way up, I got mine for $6 and bought ~8 of them. They have a set screw that matches a hole in the Crosman rail, but even w/o that they still lock down good. If you don't have that hole and don't want to drill one you can drill/tap the mount for two extra screws making it a 5 screw clamp. Looks cool too. Back in the day when Beeman/RWS were the only ones with cool one-piece mounts I bought a 4 screw RWS clamp which is probably what you get with the RWS. It's very nice, just too tall for me. Considering the price I'd certainly buy the package deal. If you tune the gun the scope should last just fine. Unless you just wanted a scope with better optics, but then the more you spend the more you lose if the gun breaks it so I'd still tune it. food for thought.
Also, I wouldn't buy the "Compact" version of the gun, the shorter barrel costs power and increases cocking effort.
 
Thanks for you take on it. I did look at a video on shimming, seems like a reasonable way to adjust for a small amount of droop.

I've not seen anything on sanding the seal, do you have a link to a video or more detailed description?
 
My brother never compensated for the "droop" on his scoped RWS 34, just used some regular mount (I forget which), and it's always been dialed-in.
 
FWIW - If you can find a Diana-made RWS-34, they are better guns than the newer Umarex-made -34's...IMHO.
 
JN01: I've never seen any info on it besides my own, which I can send you. Email me at chevota at hotmail and I'll send it, just remind me of who you are and what you want. It's a good mod and well worth the effort, but how much it helps depends on the seal. It'll makes sense when you see the info.
 
Just like a flat top piston does compared to a dished. Plus it adds a bit of stroke. Then that higher pressure reduces piston slam to minimize scope damage and other misc problems, and gives you more power. The seals smaller diameter reduces friction and will probably seal better, or at worst seal as good. It's a win win mod, but you do have to be careful not to sand too much off the face or reduce the OD too small or you'll be screwed.
The bennies depend on how bad the seal is before and how close you get it to perfect when done.
Just look at a standard seal mounted on the piston and imagine what shaving off a mm would do...
 
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