Scope mount torque settings

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Another factor to consider is the material of the rings and base. Using aluminum rings on a steel base is going to be a lower torque setting than steel rings in steel base. I was putting a scope back on a customer's rifle the other day that had noname rings and a very old Tasco scope. I set my wrench to 20 in/lbs as a safe bet.

https://precisionrifleblog.com/2013/03/22/rifle-screw-torque-settings-specifications/

Not having mounted a scope on a rifle before, does it help to use a little bit of loctite on the screws too?
 
Not having mounted a scope on a rifle before, does it help to use a little bit of loctite on the screws too?

On the base, I usually add a small dab of blue loctite. For the rings, it depends on the scope, rings, and customer. 4 screws per ring, usually no. Customer plans to change it up with a new scope eventually, also usually no. 2 screws per ring on a rifle and scope the customer doesn't plan on changing, ever? Probably some purple loctite. All torqued to specs I can find.
 
I usually go 18-20 in/lbs for the base to receiver screws. I install the base screws with 242 Loctite. I do not put anything under (or between) the bases and the receiver. For the ring screws I use 22 to 24 in/lbs and never any Loctite. All this unless the instructions specify differently.
 
My ring screws all require around 25 inch pounds per the manufacturer instructions, so that’s what they get torqued to.

I use no threadlocker on ring screws and blue loctite on base screws.
 
Vortex scopes I’ve owned in the past called out 15-18 inch pounds on the rings iirc ,
I believe that’s due to the thin aluminum main tubes whereas other scopes are a bit more robust such as Ziess , Sightron or SWFA, can’t speak towards Leupold cause I haven’t owned one in awhile.
 
Doesn’t really make sense to me for scope manufacturers to dictate ring screw torque, since the tube-crushing force would depend upon the number of screws and the footprint of the rings. A set of two screw rings as wide as a set of 4 screw rings has obviously less “clamping power,” and equally, a 4 ring set only slightly narrower than a 6 ring set has less clamping power. The narrow little Nightforce Standard Duty 4 screw sets have as much clamping force, but much less surface area than the Seekins/Vortex 4 screw rings - so the same torque on each means a very big difference in force applied to the tube.

Nightforce and Kahles offer torque standards in their manuals, S&B, Vortex, Bushnell, Leupold, and Burris all punt to the ring manufacturers.
 
I saw a new one this morning. Person on Facebook said a "highly respected gunsmith he knows" recommended using loctite on the ring/scope interface:what:. In other words, smearing the inside of the rings with loctite before clamping the scope down.

The Facebook crowd was not buying it.
 
Not having mounted a scope on a rifle before, does it help to use a little bit of loctite on the screws too?
For many folks that's almost a religious question.

Screws resist unscrewing because they stretch slightly upon tightening. A Properly Torqued screw doesn't need threadlock, but if torque is too low (small screws in aluminum bases), they might not resist very much.

I always use a threadlock, VibraTite in my case, and have never regretted it. If your screw head is so degraded that you can't unscrew it, a few seconds with a hot soldering iron will turn the threadlock to lubricant.
 
I saw a new one this morning. Person on Facebook said a "highly respected gunsmith he knows" recommended using loctite on the ring/scope interface:what:. In other words, smearing the inside of the rings with loctite before clamping the scope down.

The Facebook crowd was not buying it.

I saw that one too. I can appreciate bedding scope rings with epoxy (and release compound on the scope tube), and loctite does make two part epoxies, but have never heard of doing so with the blue loctite threadlocker product.
 
The rings I by far use the most, Warne, say to use 25 inch pounds. If a scope tube can’t handle that and the manufacturer recommends a lower torque than 25 then I probably won’t buy that scope.
 
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I saw a new one this morning. Person on Facebook said a "highly respected gunsmith he knows" recommended using loctite on the ring/scope interface:what:. In other words, smearing the inside of the rings with loctite before clamping the scope down.

The Facebook crowd was not buying it.

Neither am I. I was/am an A&P and I attended considerable training working for manufacturers in the aviation industry and also taught maintenance familiarization classes for the manufacturer. The use of thread lockers is common in the industry as is the use of torque instruments. The common Loctite 242 is not designed nor intended for use on a bearing surface, it is a medium strength thread locker and that is the only place it should be used. I know of cases where the use of thread lockers not per the aircraft/engine maintenance manual resulted in failure of a component. This is usually the result of the mechanics doing their own engineering extrapolating instructions from specific to general applications, you know, kinda like squirting all over the rings and scope and scope bases because they saw it on the wuh, wuh, wuh.
 
The rings I by far use the most, Warne, say to use 25 inch pounds. If a scope tube can’t handle that and the manufacturer recommends a lower torque than 25 then I probably won’t buy that scope.

Warne also states that the specs for the scope be used, not what they publish. Frankly, 25 is too much torque on something like a fixed power scope on anything rimfire.

Please follow the scope or firearm manufacturers’ torque recommendations for tightening your mounts. Warne lists a max torque that we rate for our mounts however certain scope & firearm manufacturers’ recommend a lower torque value and the manufacturers’ torque value should always be used.
 
As posted’ the diameter of the fastener shall dictate the torque setting in inch pounds.
I know people that don’t own a torque wrench just crank them down by feel.

I posted this because of all the misinformation being passed on from forum to forum and shooter to shooter.
Our threads are read worldwide and for me the archive of information should be as factual as possible.

I probably don’t express myself as well as I could but I hope to help new reloaders and shooters.
Shoot Small y’all
J
 
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25 inch pounds has never damaged a scope I’ve used.

I have. But I am not entirely sure it was a scope meant to go on a firearm. Even a rimfire one.

I know people that don’t own a torque wrench just crank them down by feel.

I have used torque wrenches of one type or another since I learned what they were. A Wheeler adjustable driver was always on my want list. Made a world of difference when I finally got it. I went through and checked the torques on everything I had bits for.
 
Is the Loctite on scope ring areas contacting the scope for slippage ( as a bonding agent alone ) or is it to fill voids, kinda like a reverse lapping?

I guess if one doesnt use friction paper it might work.

Blue loctite my base screws on most everything at 25 in lbs ( steel receivers ). Ring crossbolts are 30. Ring halves are 20.

Ruger 1022 are soft aluminum receiver
12 in lbs there w blue Loctite
 
Only run Loctite on base screws
.....but did have to use it on a Vortex aluminum red dot ring....6 screws and theyd loosen. Loctite solved it
 
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