Most guys in precision matches I have spoken with don’t have spin drift turned on in their calculators, more common in ELR games. I don’t correct for spin drift, and have no problem making impacts at 1,000+.
The difference for me, for example, shooting my 6 Dasher is supposed to be just under 7” at 1,000yrds (StrelokPro). That’s equivalent to estimating the net wind to within 0.8mph. Even if I do choose to dial for spin drift, it’s only 2 clicks on my scope. Say I’m shooting a full size IPSC at 1,000yrds, that’s an 18”x30” target - aka 5 clicks wide. I will have dialed 85 clicks of elevation (8.54mil), estimated my wind call to the nearest full mile per hour. The spin drift would be a mere 2 clicks on a calm shot at 1,000. But only a bit less than 1 click at 500yrds. Do you want to have it optimized for 1,000 and off at 500? What about shooting at 1400? 300? How about you just develop real world DOPE (Data On Previous Engagements) to know where your rifle prints?
If I send a shot dead center, planning on zero wind at 1,000, I still hit the IPSC target even if I don’t account for spin drift. What I can’t know is whether I have zero wind or .75mph wind across the field - so if I hit right side on a zero wind called shot, I don’t call it spin drift, I call it a 1 Mile wind (mph) and hold left side for follow up shots - which at 1,000 is unreliable enough for me to simply ignore and keep holding Center, because shifting my POA is more apt to slip one off of the side of the plate than spin drift or a 1mile wind. If I’m holding 1moa at 1,000 with a .5moa at 100yrd rifle, I’m doing phenomenally - that’s a 10” group, however. So do your first shot hit 7” to the right - are you sure it was 7” of spin drift, or was it an inch of off-Center hold, plus 5” of group radius, and an inch of poor trigger finger placement? Maybe it was a 1 mph wind to the left, 3” of bad trigger technique to the right (.3moa), 4” of bad POA at the shot to the right (less than two widths of your crosshair), minus 7” of spin drift? Or maybe you have a very slight cant in your reticle such the further you dial, the more you drift? Or maybe your scope takes a little windage drift with elevation because of their errector design (see below for machining concerns). Or maybe you just need to shoot more and figure out where your rifle really hits before making a correction on ONE shot - the hit was a hit, and you don’t have any real information from that one shot to say it was wind or spin or any other one thing. You’re already shooting >1moa at 500yrds, you’ll likely be 1.5-2moa at 1,000. Spin drift is the least of your concerns for today.
Now, let’s set that aside for a second... consider your optic mount and the precision in machining equipment... Let’s say your scope rings are 4” apart. So you want to accommodate those 2 clicks. 2 clicks at .1mil/click = .2mil correction built into your scope mount. Ok... so 1 mil is 3.6” at 100yrds, .1 mil then is .36” at 100yrds, and .2mil is .72” at 100yrds. .72” / (100yrds * 36”/yrds) = 0.0002” correction per inch of mount length. So if you have 4” between rings, that’s 0.0008” correction. First: do you believe you can mechanically correct your mount by 8 ten-thousandths? Secondly: do you think your rail, rings, receiver, and receiver holes are precisely machined to have started out within 0.0008” to begin with?
Use a quality rifle, use quality rings, load quality ammo, and go shoot. Connecting on steel at 1,000yrds really isn’t that hard - hell, if I can do it, anybody can.