Series 70 1911 / Wilson Combat Springs

[tark]

Yes. Functions fine. The only issue seems to be dropping the slide on an empty chamber with the slide release.

Then don't do that! A 1911 is not designed for the slide dropping on an empty chamber, using the slide release or not, with your finger off of the trigger. It is designed for the slide to chamber a round, with the trigger held back by your finger, during the firing cycle. And ditch the 18 # spring. a 16# spring is fine. I have seen more ruined barrels come through the shop with cracked lugs because somebody felt the need for a heavier recoil spring to "ease the shock" from firing his hot rod loads. I'm not talking about the locking lugs on the top of the barrel, but the underlug that the slide stop passes through. Too stiff of a recoil spring causes the slide to slam forward with too much force. This can result, over time, in the lug cracking, which ruins the barrel. I could tell whenever another gun with a cracked lug came in by simply listening to the explosion of profanity from Les, who personally opened and inspected RMAs that were returned.

You can ditch the shock buff as well, it offers no real improvement to the guns functioning. And it does force the slide to "short stroke" by about a tenth of an inch. This normally poses no problems, but if the recoil spring is on the weak side it could mean the difference between the gun fully chambering a round, and it not chambering a round, because the slide was stopped short of its full reward movement. If you must leave it in, then at least replace it every couple of hundred rounds. I have seen shock buffs the came apart and tied up the gun because they weren't changed. They're cheap! replace them often!

 

[Kenton38]

Then don't do that! A 1911 is not designed for the slide dropping on an empty chamber, using the slide release or not, with your finger off of the trigger. It is designed for the slide to chamber a round, with the trigger held back by your finger, during the firing cycle. And ditch the 18 # spring. a 16# spring is fine. I have seen more ruined barrels come through the shop with cracked lugs because somebody felt the need for a heavier recoil spring to "ease the shock" from firing his hot rod loads. I'm not talking about the locking lugs on the top of the barrel, but the underlug that the slide stop passes through. Too stiff of a recoil spring causes the slide to slam forward with too much force. This can result, over time, in the lug cracking, which ruins the barrel. I could tell whenever another gun with a cracked lug came in by simply listening to the explosion of profanity from Les, who personally opened and inspected RMAs that were returned.

You can ditch the shock buff as well, it offers no real improvement to the guns functioning. It does force the slide to "short stroke" by about a tenth of an inch. This normally poses no problems, but if the recoil spring is on the weak side it could mean the difference between the gun fully chambering a round, and it not chambering a round, because the slide was stopped short of its full reward movement. If you must leave it in, then at least replace it every couple of hundred rounds. I have seen shock buffs the came apart and tied up the gun because they weren't changed. They're cheap! replace them often!

I know you’re not the only person who said this, but I’ll thank everyone who did in this reply. I had no idea that slide dropping on empty could damage the firearm. My only practical knowledge with semi-auto handguns is the G17. I’ve always been more of a Smith revolver guy when it came to personal guns. I’ll source a #16 recoil spring ASAP.

 

[tark]

So there is no real evidence that it extends the life of the gun by reducing impact wear on the frame?

None that I've ever seen. When Les had the girl's shooting team, they would put tens of thousands of rounds a year through their guns. None of them used shock buffs. The guns held up just fine.

 

[JFrank]

So there is no real evidence that it extends the life of the gun by reducing impact wear on the frame?

A 16 pound -33 coil, recoil spring seems to be about right. An old guy told me a tuning trick is to cut off 3 coils to make the slide cylce a bit easier and deposit empty’s just over my right shoulder, so I tried it and dang it that worked pretty good .

 

[243winxb]

isn’t as fragile a gun

Mine has only seen target loads. Full pressure loads would be different i think.

If the serial number starts with 70N, its like mine. Very accurate right out of the box for Bullseye/Precision Pistol Competitions. Had two 70N & a later series 80. The 80s GC after coming back from Colt, still not very accurate.

 

[tarosean]

I’ll probably just leave it in. Can’t hurt it.
Thanks for educating me on the pointlessness of my purchase I guess. At least I got another magazine and firing pin spring, so it wasn’t a completely wasted package.

Read the name on the slide and ask yourself what's missing..

 

[Skylerbone]

I use the flat bottom firing pin stop and a 14 lb for heavy loads, 12 lb for my target rounds. If you’re ordering things I’d suggest a new Colt sear spring to go along with the lighter recoil spring. I use Wolff for those, Wilson Combat for the FPS

 

[9mmepiphany]

If you think it is worth respringing your 1911, I'd suggest also replacing the leaf spring, the main spring, and the magazine release spring.

I also suggest getting rid of the Shock Buff as shortening the slide travel really isn't a good thing when it comes to reliability.

Reread post #26. Dropping the slide on an empty chamber without pinning the trigger to the rear is almost the fastest ways to induce unneeded wear to you gun...the other using too heavy of a recoil spring

 

[KahrDriving]

So you're saying when you used the slide release to drop the slide on an empty chamber, the hammer follows and drops to half-cock? Does the pistol do this when you drop the slide to chamber a round?

Sear spring leaf, probably. But there can be other causes. Insufficient hammer-sear engagement, sear tip and/or hammer hooks aren't profiled correctly. Even simply trigger bounce with a strong recoil spring and empty chamber... Don't know why you'd go with an 18# in an old Colt. No reason to go to a heavier recoil spring in an older Series 70; 16# is standard with stock mainspring. (Or use Shok-Buffs, either for that matter).

Finally replaced my recoil spring in my Series70, tried 17,16, and 15 lb Wolf springs- on target loads, the 15 lb works best, full power would go to 16,17. 17 lb has pretty heavy slide action, I think 18 lb would be way too heavy.

 

[gyp_c2]

What caliber is this pistol chambered for?

 

[KahrDriving]

What caliber is this pistol chambered for?

45

 

[gyp_c2]

45

Thanks.
Given that, the 16# is the original as others mentioned. Ammo differences from light loads to full power can be a factor.
The hammer should not fall from full cock. Slide should be released on a full magazine, no matter the method.
You can " boost " the hammer without dropping the slide.
Trigger parts, then springs. Hammer fall is a no-go without pressing the trigger.
My .00002. Worth what you paid.