Should I built a gun crate?

[TITAN308]

So Im looking for a nice transport case for my project and of course I am eyeballing the Pelican 1700 or larger series.

Then I consider, why don't I just build my own gun crate (with wheels) and I know where to buy the foam in any dimension I want.

Then I think, "Well I wonder how one builds a gun crate." So with that said - any suggestions or guides on the internet? Doesn't need to be water proof or anything, but it does need to be able to support between 30-40lbs and 50" in length (give or take a few).

 

[Inebriated]

 

[Jeff H]

Then I think, "Well I wonder how one builds a gun crate." So with that said - any suggestions or guides on the internet? Doesn't need to be water proof or anything, but it does need to be able to support between 30-40lbs and 50" in length (give or take a few).

Sounds really heavy and cumbersome.

At Dick's or Cabalas or any other sporting goods stores they sell those plastic rifle cases for pretty cheap. I have 3 that will hold 4 rifles combined. That is more than enough for any range trip that I have done to date. They aren't that heavy and probably cost less than the plywood and foam you would need to build one.

 

[Certaindeaf]

You could probably make a soft case with a futon.

 

[TITAN308]

Jeff I would like enough depth in the case to run multiple layers of foam, with the top layer being cut to fit the rifle and its parts in question.

Sadly the cheap cases are like 2 inches tall and won't allow for this.

I figured I could build something the size of a pelican, with the foam, for half the price, and I can add my own personal touch since its wood.

Was thinking a nice OD green paint job and some nifty stenciling would be kind of neat.

I guess a side note would be this crate could be used for public presentations and it would be nice to have a custom case to go with a custom rifle.

 

[Inebriated]

I would model it after this, and just make it fit the dimensions I need, then put the foam in, and cut out the slots for each gun. Also, would you mind sharing where you get a "slab" of foam for this kind of thing?

 

[TITAN308]

http://www.caseclub.com/foam-interior-case-accessories.htm

Custom pre-cut or you can give dimensions and get the entire slabs.

 

[InkEd]

I would just buy a pelican type case or an aluminum foam lined one made to hold more than one rifle.

 

[BCRider]

Wait a minute.... your GUN will weigh 30 to 40 pounds? If so that suggests one of the big sled guns with attached sleds. For something like that I would suggest that what you want is not foam filling but instead a wood case which has padded supports which both cradle and lock the gun and sled in place instead of foam. That way you can leave the rifle and sled in the box without worrying about the foam picking up and holding cool moist air which then condenses out on the gun.

Think of how tools are cased and you'll get a good idea of what I mean.

For circulation I'd suggest a couple of ports cut in the side which are covered with some form of cover when the rifle is in transport. At home you open them so the air can flow through and vent out any trapped moisture. By using supportive bulkheads inside the case instead of full volume foam you promote good airflow where the foam would be likely to collect and hold cool moise air. So a fully foamed case would require you to remove the rifle and store it separately at home. The edges of the inner bulkheads that support and control movement of the rifle would be lined with heavy felt such as used for making up non marking feet for furniture used on hard wood floors. Both the lower and upper would have pieces that hold the rifle in place. You lay the gun into the lower portion cradles and then when you bring the top over and down other padded bulkheads in the lid hold the rifle in place.

A good durable but still lightweight case can be made by using 1/4 inch plywood with the outside corners formed from aluminium angle stock. The joints being made by drilling through and using long pop rivets from the outside and reinforcing washers on the inside. I'd still use a good construction adhesive to both glue and seal the joints. Something like LePages Premium 3000. For the rims you'd want to use the same angle but cut down one of the sides so it only sticks into the case by about a 1/2 inch and covers a doubler strip of plywood that runs around the edges to aid in stiffening the opening and as reinforcement for the hinge and catch screws that would not be fully supported by only using 1/4 plywood.

For the wood you'd want to hit up a specialty supplier and get a premium grade of paneling/furniture grade birch, cherry or other exotic outer layer wood so when you oil or varnish it for a finish it looks sharp. The sky is the limit on this. Hell, you can even get something with an truly exotic outer laminate such as cocabolo or rosewood if you want to add a bit more bling. Similarly if you shop around you can find the angle stock in black or other anodized colours.

Provisions to slip in and lock in place wheels and a "cart" handle can also be accomadated since it is YOUR design. Or with a little ingenuity you could even set it up with retractable wheels. It all depends on what sort of surfaces you need to run it over. If you're not sure and you expect some areas to be rough gravel or grass then go big. You don't want less than 12 inch wheels for gravel, potholes or grass or it gets pretty draggy and bumpy in a hurry as you go smaller.