Sig owners/experts assistance requested...

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Duder

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Mar 30, 2008
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Location
California
Hi,

I just picked up my Sig 226 last Friday and have to say that I really couldn't be happier with the feel of the gun or the way it shoots. Though I'm a little confused by two things:

1) The synthetic metal conditioner that came with the gun. The directions on the bottle didn't seem very clear and I'm not sure exactly how it should be used, as in to what parts it should be applied and exactly when I should put it on initially. I've cleaned the gun after I shot it but didn't apply the metal conditioner, I just used solvent and gun oil. Can anyone clarify how exactly I'm supposed to use this stuff?

2) On Sunday I put about 200 rounds (winchester white box) through my pistol. I shot 100 rounds at one location, then left and shot another 100 rounds about an hour or so later. Everything was fine up until the last 2 or 3 clips I put through it for the day. The gun would fire fine, but on the last round, it would eject the case but the slide wouldn't lock back after the clip was emptied. It would just close like it was chambering another round; one that wasn't there. I was told by an employee at the range/store that I shouldn't worry too much as the gun isn't broken in yet and to wait till it has about 500-1000 rounds through it before questioning its operation, but I'm just curious what anyone has to say or if this easily explainable. I thought Sigs were supposed to be pretty trouble free, even from the get-go. And could problem #2 be related to question #1?

Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
The gun probably just got dirty & dry after the light oil blew off.

You need to keep the slide rails and hammer face lubricated to keep wear & friction to a minimum.
Especially on a brand new gun.

WWB is sometimes not the hottest load around. And it is also usually very dirty.
So that, plus a new gun is probably the source of the problem.

Clean it & use the oil they sent you and see if it doesn't work the next time.
A good rule of thumb on a new gun is look for bright wear spots, and then oil it there.

rcmodel
 
The slide not locking back is a common issue with SIG P226's; until after
a small break-in period in which some weapons require a longer period
than other's. I recently sold 2x brand NIB "Blackwater" SIG P226's, and
both of 'em did the same exact thing. My customer called too complain
'bout spending $939.88 @ on these guns; and this issue pops up. Take
this advice please, shoot the heck out of it; and if it doesn't straighten
its-self out soon, give Melissa at SIGARMS in New Hampshire a call and
she will take care of your problem. I'm sorry, but I don't have her direct
PX number here at home with me; but she is a great customer service
rep~! :scrutiny: ;) :D
 
Make sure you don't put your fingers on the slide release like I do when shooting. Almost all my pistols suffer from the slide not staying open on the last round because my fat fingers are on the slide release lever.
 
I got my SIG226 in January and l-o-v-e it!

I've had one failure to lock back in 300 rounds, give it till 1000 and if it continues take Ala Dan's advise and call SIG. I've also heard shooting it in your left hand is a good test to make sure your not riding any controls.

Miltec-1 is good stuff, and theoretically its supposed to condition your metal when it warms up from shooting. I did 3 coats and shoots, and then put the bottle away. Lastnight I put some fp-10 on there and my SIG was happy.

Enjoy,

RFB

P.S. Tommorow my SIG logo Crimson Trace grips will be in for it then it will be real happy.

P.P.S. Barrel Smilies are normal, they mean you love your SIG.
 
SIGs are notorious for failure to slide lock because the users usually ride the slide stop, thus causing the failure. I get about a 100% reliability that my slide doesn't lock back on the P226, because I grip the gun high, and my right thumb rides the slidestop.

With the gun unloaded and magazine empty, does the slide lock back if you put the empty mag in the gun and pull the slide to the rear? If it does, there's a 99.9999999% chance that it's the shooter resting their finger on the slidestop.
 
sigs like to run "wet" for range work...as oppsed to carry/duty...so please protect your rails by lubing them with grease rather than oil

if you do talk to Melissa, tell her the chinese guy from Grayguns says "hi"
 
Thanks for all the replies!

I'll make sure to check my right thumb next time I'm shooting and I'm gonna use the metal conditioner before I take it out and then apply a little more once the gun is warm (like the bottle recommends).



Also, what is good oil or grease (9mmepiphany) to use for that gun? I'll be honest, I just used light oil from a .22 rifle cleaning kit I had lying around as that is all my dad had in the gun safe at the time. What is the good stuff I should be using for an auto pistol?


P.S. Thanks again and I'm glad I joined this board as there are a lot of helpful people here.
 
Hi 9mmepiphany,

sigs like to run "wet" for range work...as oppsed to carry/duty...so please protect your rails by lubing them with grease rather than oil

Gonna use Enos Slide Glide Lite (a good grease) for the first time, I got oiling down pretty well, but how wet is wet in regards to grease? And grease on just the rails, then oil on the barrel, lock block, barrel lugs, shiny metal etc. rule of thumb?

Thanks,

RFB

P.S. Duder, what part of Cali are you in?
 
Go to the Sig forum. Lots of expert help there. My 226 was like that . Needed a new slide lock lever spring.
 
Last edited:
P.S. Duder, what part of Cali are you in?

I spend my time split between Berkeley (I got to UC Berkeley) and the greater Sacramento area when I'm not in school. Lets just say being a gun owner and living in Berkeley is quite interesting if not ironically hilarious at times.
 
Down where I am its funny to be a legally armed person...theres enough CCW in Los Angeles...problem is their "permits" are usually gang colors. Nothing better than having ex-cops (I'm a server) your waiting on point out indivuals questionable bulges under loose hoodies.

I have a friend who is 99% sure She will be attending Berkely this Fall to begin her Doctorate. Sacremento is a trip, It feels like you just drove 7 hours out of CA, but its still CA. :)

RFB
 
Not locking back is usually a magazine problem. Check the feed lips for damage or bending. The follower pushes the slide lock up. It could just be dirty but not usually in 200 rounds.
 
The conditioner included with the gun is Militec 1, just apply and shoot, repeat three times before you attempt to use the gun dry (suggested for duty use only).
 
Enos Slide Glide is excellent.

how wet is wet?...for a long range session (more than a couple of mags) i'd put it one like sun block. you should see "white" on the rails

this helps protect the rails from where and will stay in place when the gun starts getting hot. you can even put oil atop the grease...i won't hurt.

for a carry gun this isn't practical...it attacts dirt...so a light film will do. just remember to "grease up" before you practice again
 
Confuse me for being ignorant as I'm new to semi-auto hand guns, but what exactly are the rails? Is that where the slide slips onto the frame?
 
Cool, so is that the only place you're supposed to grease? And then oil the rest (barrel, spring, inside the slide, inside the frame)? Or am I missing anything?


BTW, thanks for helping a novice.
 
The slide not locking back is a common issue with SIG P226's; until after
a small break-in period in which some weapons require a longer period
than other's. I recently sold 2x brand NIB "Blackwater" SIG P226's, and
both of 'em did the same exact thing. My customer called too complain
'bout spending $939.88 @ on these guns; and this issue pops up. Take
this advice please, shoot the heck out of it; and if it doesn't straighten
its-self out soon, give Melissa at SIGARMS in New Hampshire a call and
she will take care of your problem. I'm sorry, but I don't have her direct
PX number here at home with me; but she is a great customer service
rep~!

The phone number you are looking for is:

(603)772-2302 extension 3111

That's customer service. I can't give you anyones specific extension, that would get me fired, but the number I have given you is all you will need.
 
The lube that came with the gun is Miltec. A few DROPS should be plenty to oil the whole pistol. This is the onl oil I use in my guns, it is near as perfect as i've used.
 
Shoot it one-handed and see if it locks back. If it does, then you're probably riding the slide with your thumb high in a two handed grip. Make sure your right thumb is down when you shoot a SIG.
 
1) Is this a new gun or used from out of state? I ask because some P226s made for sale in other states have issues with our CA legal 10 round MAGAZINES (not clips ;) ) I've had to replace the slide stop on one P226ST 9mm from Ohio for this reason.

2) Slide Glide is the way to go. I convert everyone I give it to. It's available here: http://www.brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html

Here in CA for range work, I'd say go with the #1. It's what I use. Apply it to all areas where you see the rub marks like the slide and frame rails top of barrel, ect.

I'm not sure how others are using that Miltec, but once I've cleaned my firearms, I wipe them down with a silicone cloth to prevent rust and get of skin oils and such.

I own some P226s and I love them.
 
MW,

The gun is brand new and bought in Ca.


I'll pick up some of the recommended lube from on here and see how it goes. Thanks again for all the help.
 
A thought about ammo..

...

FYI, much of Winchester wb ammo is being turned over to a company in the Czech Republic..

So, chk the box labels and make sure you're getting Made in ILL. USA and not Made in Czech Republic, as there is a huge difference in quality, as I found out both in feed jams, via bent, or cracked cartridges and accuracy vs over 12,000, plus rounds of Winchester wb made in USA, both clean, and accurate and 100% reliable in all those rounds, no failures of any kind.

If all they sell is the crap made in Czech Republic, ask for Federal Eagle, and you should have equal pressured shots, and less a chance of a low-powered-loads and not enough umph! to push the slide all the way back and lock..

And keep the rails and rail guides good and WET, along with clean dry feed ramp, and lightly oiled return catch slots, which one can use a Q-Tip dipped in oil to apply nice, even, thin layers of oil, like on springs, exterior of barrel, etc.


Ls
 
Lots of good advice so far.

I'll just add that if you didn't take the mags apart and clean all of the "sig goo" out of them, do that now. Sig mags come with LOTS of shipping grease in them. I use Brake Cleaner or Gun Scrubber for that. The mags do not require any lube or oil and should be kept dry and clean.

I use the Mil-Comm TW25 on the top of the rails of my frame.
I put a dab on the top rear part (wide) of the frame and also on the front top rails of the frame. I also put a dab on top of the locking insert and on the top of the flat part of the barrel that rides along the inside top of the slide.
I use a Q-Tip dipped in Hoppes oil and run it down the grove that the slide travels in on both the frame and the slide.

After you put the slide back on to the frame, rack it a few times (without a mag in it) and wipe off the excess oil and lube and you should be good to go.

Good luck with your new Sig!
 
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