Sig Sauer P226R

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Winkman822

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Okay gang, I just bought a Sig Sauer P226R on Saturday. It's a non Mk25 Navy gun (sticker on the side of the box says NSWG), but the Navy designator had nothing to do with my selection of this particular gun. It just seemed to be the best of the lot in the case at my local shop (i.e. lest side to side and up down movement of the slide, no burrs on the slide rails or frame rails, good tight lockup, etc., etc.). My question, however, is what I should be on the lookout for through the first thousand rounds or so of shooting considering the apparent drop off in QC since Mr. "shall remain nameless, but formerly of Mimber, I mean Kimber infamy" took over the wheelhouse at Sig. I'm very much hoping that this gun runs as good as it looks and feels. In terms of non-1911 pistols, the Sig Sauer P series has always just been a better fit for my hand than the likes of Glock, S&W, Ruger, etc.
 
As long as you have inspected it for burrs on the slide, the only thing is shoot it. Sigs like to run wet, if not you will prematurely wear the slide. I'm have over 15k+ on my 4 yr 229.
 
Actually, the slides are steel and the frames are alloy (aluminum alloy) so, if you don't run a SIG "wet" you will prematurely wear the frame.....

Also, if not well lubed, galling could be caused by the dissimilar metals (steel slide and alloy frame) rubbing against each other....that is why they anodize both components.

I have a P239 that I have maybe 7500 rounds through and there is no wear evident anywhere....thanks to "running wet".......

Just my experience!
 
Had mine for 5 years and not a single issue. I will say that you need to make sure that your grip doesn't cause you to accidentally push down on the slide release. Sometimes my right thumb will acctuate it causing the slide to not lock back after the last round.

I am out of the loop. I don't know who you are talking about taking over the wheelhouse but I am seriously concerned. From my experience Kimbers aren't any good and I would hate to see Sig go the same way. What position does this new guy hold?
 
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Bought my SIG P226 Navy last month and I'm a happy camper. Remember that it uses a combat sight picture: cover your target with the front dot. Keep your right thumb away from the slide catch to avoid failure to lock open after the last round. Control the decocking lever to avoid marring the slide finish. Follow the rail grease advice: run it wet. Shoot often. Enjoy the envious looks and the nonsense spewed by the Glock fanboys. Post pictures.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
 
well I just got back from the range. I ran 150 problem free (except for my idiot moments) rounds of 115 gr FMJ. The fed, fired and ejected everything, and it locked open on an empty mag every time I didn't revert to my 1911 induced high thumbs hold (yes I did it more than a couple of times). Other than that the gun ran smooth as silk. I also found out after a mag or two that the gun is for a combat sight picture as opposed to the 6 o'clock hold that I have all of my 1911s set up for. A couple of range trips may also confirm whether I need to have the rear sight drifted so that I get a proper point of impact...for some reason or another, rounds were hitting about an inch to the right (right handed shooter) of wher I had the sights aligned. All in al, it seems to be quite the nice shooter, and a very nice cure to my Sig itch. I'll run about another 150 of 115 FMJ and a box or two of JHPs (124 gr. Remington Bonded Golden Sabers and 124 gr Federal HSTs) and this gun may well find its way into the carry rotation, but it's got one heck of a fight to take the place of my Wilson CQB.

Oh yeah, I did use grease on the slideto frame contact points to begin with...same thing I do with my 1911s (except I still use a little dab of oil on the disconnector instead of greasing that particular part); in any event , the P226 ran like a champ tonight.
 
As long as you have inspected it for burrs on the slide, the only thing is shoot it. Sigs like to run wet, if not you will prematurely wear the slide. I'm have over 15k+ on my 4 yr 229.
Click to expand...

Don't the videos on the Sig website say to not over lube the gun? They say something about just enough oil to leave a fingerprint. If it runs down in a bead, then you've used too much. My own 226's run the same wet or dry, oil or grease.

On a similar subject, my new P226 stainless elite has had some issues. Its in 9mm. The recoil spring is really stout compared to the other 226 I own. There also is an issue with it not locking back on the last round. I noted the followers in the two mags that came with it are narrower than those in my older mags.
 
I would not forsee any problems. I have shot many of them from German to American, old and new, and all of them have performed flawlessly. I'm kind of a big fan!
 
montgomery381 said:
Had mine for 5 years and not a single issue. I will say that you need to make sure that your grip doesn't cause you to accidentally push up on the slide release. Sometimes my right thumb will acctuate it causing the slide to not lock back after the last round.

I am out of the loop. I don't know who you are talking about taking over the wheelhouse but I am seriously concerned. From my experience Kimbers aren't any good and I would hate to see Sig go the same way. What position does this new guy hold?
Click to expand...
That would be one Ron Cohen...he came on with Sig Sauer a few years back. Knock on wood though, my P226 seems to run as it is designed to thus far.

As for the comments, thanks gang. I'm really happy with the gun thus far, there's just going to be a bit of a learning curve to get out of the high thumb hold (my stock 1911 grip) with the P226.
 
Hey folks. I just got a brand new MK25. Like Winkman said, I didn't get it because of the tacticool anchor (actually wish it didn't have that on there) But I was able to get it for just a little more than the standard 226, and since the mk25 has the coated internals to resist rust and damage, comes with 3 mags and night sights it was a no brainer. My questions are:

1. When you say "run it wet" do you mean heavily greased? Heavily lubricated?

2. What is "galling" and how do I prevent my sig from doing that? I assume it is something bad to do with metal running against metal?

3. What are burrs on the slide and how do I prevent them?

Sorry for the noob questions but this is my first handgun purchase. Shot and borrowed many and figured it was time to finally get my own! Thanks!
 
jawman said:
1. When you say "run it wet" do you mean heavily greased? Heavily lubricated?

2. What is "galling" and how do I prevent my sig from doing that? I assume it is something bad to do with metal running against metal?

3. What are burrs on the slide and how do I prevent them?
Click to expand...
Look at the link in post #4 to see how wet to run your SIG.

The burrs folks are referring to are on the rails of the slide where they contact the rails on the frame. If you find burrs, I'd call SIG to have them take care of it...it is a manufacturing fault

Dr_B said:
Don't the videos on the Sig website say to not over lube the gun? They say something about just enough oil to leave a fingerprint. If it runs down in a bead, then you've used too much. My own 226's run the same wet or dry, oil or grease.
Click to expand...
They are referring to a carry gun...which makes sense, when you consider you'll likely shoot less than a magazine through it is you need to use it.

My advice is for training or heavy practice. The article I linked to is out of the shop of the foremost SIG gunsmith in the nation. The point was to prolong the useful life of the hard anodization on the frame. Serious shooters even float so additional oil on top of the grease during long training sessions. How you choose to protect your frame is a personal choice
 
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