Slim frame around forcing cone.... frame cracking risk?

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Ignacio49

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A friend is selling his old Rossi 38 special, 5 shots, 3” barrel. This revolver passed the inspection and seems to be in good condition…BUT… I just noticed that the frame around the forcing cone is very thin, 1mm/0,04” approx.

Would you say this is too thin to feel comfortable shooting regular (NON +P) 38 specials? Too much risk of frame cracking?

Thanks

Ignacio




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S&W Airweights have shown a chance of cracking in that area.

But cracks rarely, if ever, happen with steel frame guns.

I wouldn't worry about shooting 38 Special ammo -- non plus p.

Probably won't crack, but if it does, you will have to retire it.

But if you don't shoot it what good is it?

It's not a collectable and not super valuable.
 
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S&W Airweghts have shown a chance of cracking in that area.

But cracks rarely, if ever, happen with steel frame guns.

I wouldn't worry about shooting 38 Special ammo -- non plus p.

Probably won't crack, but if it does, you will have to retire it.

But if you don't shoot it what good is it?

It's not a collectable and not super valuable.
My S&W Airwt was bought used and I've put hundreds of 38 non+P ammo through it with no noticeable cracking! gun 003.JPG
 
Ignacio49

I had the stainless version of your Rossi, the Model 88. I shot mainly standard velocity .38s through it as I seem to recall reading something in the manual about not using +P ammo in it. No problems with the frame or forcing cone area. Made for a great Kit Gun for taking along on backwoods hikes.
 
Good tho go. Just don't hot-rod the gun. Remember, it was built at a time when 38spl was a bit hotter than most of the ammo available today.
 
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Thanks for your answers.
I am familiar with S&W Airweights and their potential cracking problem. In fact my first gun was a model 37, many moons ago - never had a problem with it. I've seen/owned J frame or equivalent snubbies from S&W, Taurus, Astra, Colt, Rossi, but none with such a thin frame in the forcing cone... +/- 1mm/.04", which seemed too thin to me.
 
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That's pretty thin but I imagine if it's been shot and worked fine to date it'll continue to work just fine- The cracking issues usually come from hot ammo over a long time. Unless you subject it to out of spec pressure it should be fine.

that said it's not a big collectible or anything so if you're nervous I'd pass. Life is too short to accumulate stress chasing a "deal". It might bother you forever even if it never actually cracks, and that would probably make it no fun to shoot.
 
In many cases the cracking in that area, expecially with alloy frames, is caused by overtorquing the barrel at the factory rather than shooting the gun.
 
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The frame will not crack before the barrel does. I don't think the barrel will, either. The .38 Spl. is NOT a .357 Mag., so stop worrying.
 
What used to be the problem was hot, 125 grain loads, in K frame revolvers. There is more barrel forcing cone sticking out of the frame in a K frame than the pictured Rossi. Talking to bud's who did have barrels crack, they were using 38 Special loads that made "major" in their K frames. I remember reading that the L frame was brought out because the K frame revolvers had barrel cracking issues with the full power 357 Magnum 125 grain loads of the period. The revolvers were fine with 158 grain bullets, but the 125's had more powder, and I guess, the flame temperature shot up, and so would, you expect, the duration. Based on what I see, the barrel on that Rossi is well protected and I would not worry about the barrel cone cracking or frame cracking.
 
The K-frames that crack, crack in the forcing cone on the bottom due to the bottom of the barrel below the forcing cone being milled flat, thinning it down.

Your gun lacks this relief cut allowing the cylinder to close.
It will be ok with lead bullet +P and non +P jacketed ammo.
 
Not rated for +P if I recall correctly, but for standard .38 Spl. I see absolutely no problem.
 
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