Small gun performance

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tarosean said:
If that same perp sets your slide back a fraction of an inch?

Its not going off either.
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Or if youre holding the slide and get the gun to discharge, preferably, into anything but you, it now needs a TRB to get back into action.
 
A small uncomplicated revolver that goes bang is just what is called for. An auto that gets friction on the slide in a scuffle absolutely will jam. Never happen w a wheel gun.
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There are at least 4 possible ways to tie up a revolver.

If it's cocked, get something between the hammer and the frame. (Assumes an exposed hammer.)

If it's not cocked:
  • Grab the cylinder to prevent it from rotating.
  • Restrain the hammer to prevent it from coming back. (Assumes an exposed hammer.)
  • Get a finger behind the trigger inside the trigger guard.
 
If it's cocked, get something between the hammer and the frame. (Assumes an exposed hammer.)
If it's not cocked:
  • Grab the cylinder to prevent it from rotating.
  • Restrain the hammer to prevent it from coming back. (Assumes an exposed hammer.)
  • Get a finger behind the trigger inside the trigger guard.
Click to expand...

I think if I ever find myself having to utilize one of those methods to prevent being shot at very close range, my day has totally gone in the toilet and doesn’t promise to improve from there.
 
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I think if I ever find myself having to utilize one of those methods to prevent being shot at very close range, my day has totally gone in the toilet and doesn’t promise to improve from there.
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No kidding. I have read of at least two of those methods being used (jamming part of one's hand between the gun and hammer, and grabbing the cylinder to keep it from rotating), but there's no way I could provide a link or citation, nor am I even 100% sure that they were from real-life accounts vs. from fiction.

Also, it should be pointed out that there are ways to counter all of those moves, if one has trained to do so. If you carry a revolver for self-defense, it might be wise to learn some of them. They are not especially complicated to perform.

As far as trying to tie up someone else's revolver, in spite of the fact that these are all obviously last ditch/desperation techniques, if you're in grappling distance of someone trying to shoot you with a revolver, you don't really have a lot to lose by trying to grab the revolver around the cylinder. Maybe the person holding it doesn't know how to counter that defense. If you can also get a finger around on the back of the gun where it will be between the hammer and the frame if the gun is cocked, that's even better. But even if the gun is cocked, when you grab it and you can't get a finger between the hammer and the frame, the gun is reduced to a single shot for as long as you can hold on. If it's a decent caliber, when the gun fires, you will likely be injured by the barrel/cylinder gap so keep that in mind--one more thing going for you... :barf:

You can get a feel for how these things work with an UNLOADED revolver. If you're going to practice blocking the hammer, you might want to do it with a revolver that doesn't have a hammer-mounted firing pin. The technique will work with a hammer-mounted firing pin, but will likely result in injury.
 
JTQ said:
Correct, I'm not saying the accuracy was a theory, but rather why it was more accurate was a theory. Perhaps I'm remembering incorrectly, I read the article years ago, and correct me if I am wrong, but he was trying to figure out why the G26 was more accurate for him. What I'm saying is, I believe his theory, in the article, was the smaller dimensions allowed less flex than the larger gun.
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The G26 is such a great CC choice. 10/15/17/or 33 mags. small,lightweight, shoots like a full size gun. When they came out in 1995,they were the must have 20200930_075417_HDR_resized.jpg "pocket pistol"
 
My favorite part is where he says the data tells us what we already knew.

Unfortunately there are a lot of people out there who's only interest is in self defense is intimately intertwined with convenience. My exe girlfriend is a good example. She wanted a gun to carry. I let her shoot my larger guns and my smaller guns to demonstrate the difference and show her the difficulty uptick when shooting smaller guns. She acknowledged it and saw it in her own performance. I recommended to start we get her a bigger gun to learn on. She had no interest in learning to really be a good shooter, and chose an LC9S. She asked me if it was shooting straight because she couldn't hit anything. I took the gun and put three rounds through the center at 7 yards. "Yeah, the gun shoots fine." Thus began a long road of teaching her how to at least be competent enough to stop an attack.

She told me one day a real creep came into her business. I asked her where she kept her gun when she was working. She told me "in her car".

Lost cause. Wouldn't listen to me even on a few diplomatically and logically stated notions. It was all about convenience and what she wanted was something to make her FEEL safer, not actually be safer.

Probably one of the reasons she's an exe, and not my wife.

Start with larger guns. They are easier in every way.
 
It was all about convenience and what she wanted was something to make her FEEL safer, not actually be safer.
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Centuries ago, it was common to think that weapons could have magical powers, that they could give the bearer success and safety. We are much beyond that now. Well, at least we don't say it openly--but there certainly are still people out there who believe that guns are magic.

Now, I'm not saying that they believe at a conscious level that guns are magic--but that's just a minor detail. You can see by their actions that they are trusting in magic. If you look at what they are doing you can tell they believe that just having one will somehow keep them safe. Doesn't matter that they can't shoot it--they may not have ever even tried to shoot it! Doesn't matter that they put it where they likely won't be able to get to it when they need it. Doesn't matter that they haven't practiced. It's not about any of that. They have a gun, so they will be safe. Magic.
 
JohnKSa said:
There are at least 4 possible ways to tie up a revolver.

If it's cocked, get something between the hammer and the frame. (Assumes an exposed hammer.)

If it's not cocked:
  • Grab the cylinder to prevent it from rotating.
  • Restrain the hammer to prevent it from coming back. (Assumes an exposed hammer.)
  • Get a finger behind the trigger inside the trigger guard.
Click to expand...

I think anyone who has acted this out w a sparing partner will verify, it is much more difficult to foul a revolver than an auto. No doubt about it. Holding cylender not sure how much it would take to over come the S&W dounle action, but the cylender is round & turning. Not a very good grip surface, where an auto is designed to be gripped on its slide. Far more things can go wrong w an auto in cqb.
 
Interesting. It depends. I had two very small pistols a DB9 and a DB380. The .380 was smaller but very accurate. The 9 was harder to shoot and less accurate. In full size I had a H&K USP 9 that is accurate but I shoot a VP9 more accurately because it fits my hand better.
 
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