harrygunner
Member
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2006
- Messages
- 1,045
How critical is it to taper the face of the stop where the hammer meets it like seen here? Is it ok to leave a gap at the bottom as seen in the diagram at the right?
Also, what is the easiest way to establish the radius on the bottom corner while keeping it absolutely straight?
For my 10/18 Model of 1911, ordered their 1912 reproduction slide stop from Cylinder and Slide.
Nice, especially if it is a nice fit.
but have generally advised against using a radius that small on 9mm pistols because of short recoil concerns.
When I started with 1911/10mm, the common recommendation was "put a (far to heavy) recoil spring in it."
I'd have to measure it, read the drawings, do some math.... but basically, I'm NOT going to. The center rail does not contact the frame. I would say that the only way it could be too close was for it to ride / contact and rub. They do not. The disconnect works as it should. If the slide is out of battery by less than a 1/16" the trigger is disconnected. It might be smaller amount of out of battery, but I was on the range without a dial caliper.the center rail being too close to the top of the frame
I'd have to measure it, read the drawings, do some math.... but basically, I'm NOT going to. The center rail does not contact the frame.
The disconnect works as it should. If the slide is out of battery by less than a 1/16" the trigger is disconnected.