Smith and Wesson 340PD .357 Airlite......looking to buy.....

[skipbo32]

i have been looking at the Smith and Wesson 340PD Air lite in .357/.38+P for my new concealed carry. i have currently been carrying the Sig P232 in .380, and although i love the looks and feel of the gun.....i want something that is smaller, lighter, and packs more punch. i like the reliability concept behind revolvers too.

i was wondering if any of you have experience with the 340 PD .357 and if you have any advise for me. i have read lots of reports of heavy recoil and people opting to use the .38+P over the .357 ect.....

i am wanting to know the quality and durabilty of the gun and what ammo is best for it. i have read that the gun is ammo sensitive, for too hot a load will unseat the rounds in the cylinder and wear on the frame. i would imagine that the .357 round would put a lot of wear and tear on the gun as well as my hand.

this would be a business only gun, and my thoughts were to maybe carry it with .38+ P rounds but maybe have 2 of the chambers loaded with .357.

any help would be great. i plan on selling my Sig P232 with laser grips so i can afford this gun. i love the Sig, but i am simply not a fan of the .380 caliber.

 

[340PD]

I own, and often carry my 340pd. If it is not on me, it is close at hand in the car. I have shot a few rounds of almost every commercial self defense round in .357 and 38 sp in it. Yes, the .357 does produce recoil, but my Seecamp .32 hurts a lot more. My gun is loaded with 135 gr. Speer Gold Dots. I really see no need for using .357 ammo in this gun for the purpose I intend to use it. That said, I do like the option of using .357 if I ever felt the need. I have added CT laser grips which gives me a lot of security in low light conditions. This is one great carry gun. Front pocket or IWB it is a breeze to wear even in lightweight wool dress slacks. I do not feel this is a great range gun. Alloy guns overall are generally not made for the thousands of rounds a steel gun could endure. Therefore, I take a 640 to the range to keep my skills up.

 

[skipbo32]

hey, thanks for the reply! man, you must really be a fan if your tag name is 340PD! that's great. i really want to buy this gun, but i got worried when i read about guys who had this gun and it broke apart on them.......i guess because they were using it too much. it seemed in all the stories, Smith and Wesson was always there to help, but i just want to make sure that i dont have a defensive gun that will fail on me. have you had any issues with cartridges coming unseated, causing the cylinder to lock up? i have also heard that guys like to take out the internal lock so there is not a future malfunction. what are your thoughts on that?

and what would you guess is the life expectancy of this gun? how many rounds have you put through yours? and another thing.........this gun is very expensive and i have had thoughts of buying a used one, but given the fact that this model of gun is better off the less rounds through it, i have considered looking at the new ones.

i also forgot to ask......what do you think of the trigger pull on this gun?

and does anyone else agree that i should opt for this gun by selling my sig .380? i guess i would rather have 5rds of .357/.38 than 8rds of .380. i also like the idea of being able to keep a revolver loaded month after month and not having to worry about rounds being stored in a spring loaded magazine.

 

[Denada]

I also carry the 340PD as my daily gun, using a Desantis front pocket holster. I've also carried it a time or two using a clip draw (this makes a sleek overall carry package, though some may frown at this method). Agree that the 357 mag cartridge is excessive for such a light gun, but one can certainly try it out and decide for himself. I carry the Speer 135 gr .38 Spl GD short barrel round, which seems about right for my needs. Another good thing about using .38 Spl is that, with the longer 357 cylinder, you have a small cushion of protection against the (potential) problem of bullets jumping their crimp (which has never happened to me, but is a risk with heavier bullets at magnum velocities). I support you in your choice to go with a 340PD, assuming you're comfortable with firing snub nose revolvers. Oh, and by the way, sell your Sig if you must, but keep it if you can!

 

[Scuba_Steve]

I think this is still on topic. Just for giggles I have been browsing snub nose magnum revolvers for sale and found a local 340SCPD that I am considering. What I haven't been able to find is, what is the difference between the 340PD and 340SCPD.

 

[Denada]

As far as I know, the 340SCPD is the same gun as the 340PD... the SC just stands for Scandium, which is the alloy metal used in constructing the gun's frame.

 

[GJgo]

I used to have one of the hammered versions. With full house 357 it recoiled so hard that it would half-cock the hammer & lock up the gun. Hurt so bad I didn't want to shoot a second round, anyway.

 

[Ralph G. Briscoe]

I had a 340pd. I didn't like the lock, the ammo sensitivity, or the recoil so I sold it and bought a 642 which I believe is a much better choice, particularly considering the cost difference. The weight difference is negligible.

 

[skipbo32]

I carry the Speer 135 gr .38 Spl GD short barrel round, which seems about right for my needs.

denada: is that a +P round?

also....what would be a good price for one of these, used.

 

[Denada]

denada: is that a +P round?

also....what would be a good price for one of these, used.

The 135 gr. Speer GD is rated +P.
Gunbroker.com has a used 340PD offered at a "buy now" price of $650... the new ones are around $800. You can probably locate one for under $600 with a little bit of patient searching, since many of these guns are bought new and sold soon thereafter (due to above-mentioned recoil issues). I would expect most used 340PDs are in pretty good condition, since it's unlikely they've been fired much (same reason). Good luck.

 

[skipbo32]

Denada:

i looked up the Speer Gold Dot short barrel rounds and studied their ballistics. from what i gathered, it appears that the .38sp +p is just a little above a regular .38sp (in a regular handgun) and the .357mag is just a little above a .38sp +p (coming out of a regular handgun).

in another words. i think i would feel good about opting for the SB Gold Dot .357 because it would be about the same velocity and ft.lbs as shooting a .38+P in a longer barrel............ie, should be like shooting a 9mm if you will.

 

[Denada]

Denada:

i looked up the Speer Gold Dot short barrel rounds and studied their ballistics. from what i gathered, it appears that the .38sp +p is just a little above a regular .38sp (in a regular handgun) and the .357mag is just a little above a .38sp +p (coming out of a regular handgun).

in another words. i think i would feel good about opting for the SB Gold Dot .357 because it would be about the same velocity and ft.lbs as shooting a .38+P in a longer barrel............ie, should be like shooting a 9mm if you will.

Try them both and see how they go. Don't forget, a "regular" handgun is 2-3 times heavier than the 340PD, which makes a big difference when firing these rounds. The 340PD does have a strong kick, but everyone responds to recoil differently. I'd describe the effect (when firing the 357 mag 158 gr. fmj rounds by Sellier & Bellot, which are loaded hot) as similar to smashing a tree hard with an aluminum baseball bat... a solid wack, followed by a tingling sensation in the hand. When recoil reaches a certain point it becomes a trade-off between "how much can I tolerate" for any given shot vs. practicality. Even though I might be able to fire a full cylinder's worth of anything through my 340PD ONCE while at the range, I still have concern about how that experience would translate to an actual self-defense shooting scenario, where gun controllability and follow-up shots are important. The biggest problem I see concerning the 340PD is the potential for the average shooter to overestimate his ability to use this gun tactically, based upon limited, controlled test shots at the firing range. I think the Dirty Harry maxim applies here: "A good man knows his limitations." Choose your ammo based upon practicality under stress. But I still remain a 340PD ccw fan, all these things considered.

 

[skipbo32]

Denada,
thanks for all the insight. i am not that familiar with shooting .357 out of a small gun so i guess i just need to chalk it up to trial and error. my guess is, i might carry half .38+p and half .357 in the cylinder (ie. first 3rds +p and last two .357).

the 340pd seems to be the perfect fit for my needs because of it's light weight and firepower. the Sig .380 im carrying now gets left at home a lot because of it's bulky grip, and although it is reliable.....i dont feel protected with a .380 cal. i shot a racoon with it one time and it took me a full magazine of Hornady to take him down. i understand that the 340pd will be a hard gun to shoot, but the fact that it carries so easy i know i will not hesitate to carry it all the time.

 

[340PD]

Sorry for the slow reply. The 340 frame is made of a very strong Scandium alloy. If it EVER fails on me it goes back to S&W. I have shot S&W revolvers over 45 years and I have no issues with them at all. A friend of mine found a small crack in the frame of one of his older steel frame revolvers. I told him to contact S&W and they sent him a new replacement gun. I am a RSO at a local range and none of my coworkers have ever seen a lock fail on any S&W revolver. I am not saying it is not possible, I am saying for every lock fail, millions of rounds are fired without any failures. I will take my chances on that. I think if you are planning to shoot a lot of high power handloads out of a 340/360 you should make sure you have the correct crimp and bullet weight. Heavy recoil can create bullet setback. I shoot light loads out of .357 cases just to make cleanup easier. As far as reliability 442/340, etc. should be the same. The 340 requirement is that you shoot heavier bullet weights. Pay attention to that. I only use bullets over 125 gr. anyway. I do like and trust this gun and it is one I will keep forever. Again. I do not use it regularly as a range gun. It was never intended as such.

 

[skipbo32]

ok, here is an update for those who followed this. i purchased a 340PD off gunbroker. the gun only has 10rds through it and it came with crimson laser grips and a galco leather holster. the whole package cost me $750. i have not shot it yet, but i ordered some Speer Gold Dot short barrel rounds in .38+P and .357mag. i also got a box of regular FMJ .38s to plink with. i cant wait to feel her shoot and im hoping this will turn into a decent carry for me. thanks to all those that helped me out on this thread.

 

[jad0110]

I'd describe the effect (when firing the 357 mag 158 gr. fmj rounds by Sellier & Bellot, which are loaded hot) as similar to smashing a tree hard with an aluminum baseball bat... a solid wack, followed by a tingling sensation in the hand.

That sounds like a pretty good way to describe it. I've never fired one, but read a post here years ago describing it as feeling something like slamming your hand in the door of a late 60s Olds Cutlass.

Personally, my upper limit in recoil is close to a .357 Magnum out of an SP101. I think I could tolerate .357 out of a slightly lighter steel J frame, but no lighter.

 

[MCgunner]

I shot one once. Would be a .38 if I owned one. It's super light, begs for pocket carry which would eliminate any huge grips. I'm a pocket carry guy.

 

[Denada]

Nice looking gun! Seems like a good buy overall. Let us know what you think after you've fired off some rounds of various flavors.

 

[Prosser]

Always wonder what someone is going to think of the scandiums.
Mine came with a 16 pound trigger, auto-locked while dry firing.
I use Fioochi 147 grain HP's at 1131 fps out of mine.

 

[HiVel1]

Had the PD and enjoyed it , could actually shoot it pretty well with 357, more managable with 38+P. Sold it cuz I did not want the ammo limited and bought a Smith 638 in 38+P. Liked the hammer cocking feature -now I am looking at getting a 340 M&P = steel cylinder-will prob sell or trade the alloy 38.
I have a SS 357 640 for practice and occasional carry.

They make a 340 M&P without the lock. Next revolver for me I hope!

 

[Denada]

ok, here is an update for those who followed this. i purchased a 340PD off gunbroker...

Thought I'd resurrect this thread you started and ask about your experience shooting the new 340PD. Hope you've had a chance to try out several loadings and have selected something that works well for you as a carry round.

 

[skipbo32]

Denada:

thank you for wanting an update. unfortunately i have not shot it yet. i have a lot of projects going and havnt had the chance. the only ammo i have for it is the speer gold dot .357 short barrel ammo. i will give an update when i get the chance.

 

[kludge]

i was wondering if any of you have experience with the 340 PD .357 and if you have any advise for me. i have read lots of reports of heavy recoil and people opting to use the .38+P over the .357 ect.....

Here's my experience (a devoted SP101 owner)...

My buddy had one, and I asked him to shoot it. I had brought some standard pressure 125gr .38 SPl loads and some 158gr .357 Magnum loads (hot, but not HOT!!!)

He loaded it up for me while I was talking to someone else.

I shot the first shot and my comment was, "I don't like that at all."

To which he replied, "That was the .38."

The next 4 shots may have been the most unpleasantest shooting experience of my life.

It didn't rattle my fillings like my .454 Casull, but it hurt just as bad.

I'll keep my SP101, thanks. Shooting Magnums from the SP101 is like shooting .38's from an Airweight.

 

[fastbolt]

Congrats.

I've shot some 340/360PD's, but I own a pair of 642-1's and a pair of M&P 340's (not counting another older Airweight and some steel J's ).

While I've used assorted Magnum loads in my first M&P 340 for quals & assorted training/practice drills, I mostly use standard and +P loads for practice nowadays, and carry +P loads. I feel the benefit in controllability and recoil management during rapid shot strings when I'm using some of the modern +P loads, combined with the better designed hollowpoints of the more modern loads, offsets any velocity (power) loss of not using Magnum loads.

But that's me.

Carefully read the safety manual about the ammunition warning for the PD/Ti/Sc guns. (Should be on page 12 of the current safety manual, which can be down-loaded from the company website if you didn't get one.)

Don't use Magnum ammunition using bullet weights below 120grs (to help reduce the possibility of premature erosion of the titanium alloy cylinders - in the charge holes and on the cylinder face). Don't using cleaning products, methods or tools which will compromise the surface integrity of the titanium cylinders, either.

Check samples of your intended jacketed ammunition to make sure you don't experience bullet pull (bullet jumping the crimp) under recoil. The instructions are found on the same page in revolver the safety manual.

FWIW, when I was originally checking some various Magnum loads in my first M&P 340 ... which has a steel cylinder and weighs a little more than the 340PD ... I observed that at least a couple brands resulted in instances of bullet pull, when I was shooting that gun on that day with that ammunition. Once I exhaust the couple of brands of Magnum loads that worked fine, though, I'll again re-test any newer production loads of the same ammo, just to confirm good functioning. After all, crimp strength is one of those things that vary among production lots, right?

 

[HankB]

My "always" gun is a 340Sc, which I normally load with Winchester .357 Mag 145 grain Silvertip JHPs. I pocket carry it in an Uncle Mike's holster. So far, I haven't had any problems with bullets walking out of the case, but I test every new lot just to be sure that nothing has changed.

I have Crimson Trace grips on it which cover the backstrap - the cushioning makes shooting Magnums merely unpleasant, rather than painful.

It's had a trigger job which greatly improved feel, even though it still has the original springs. (See the Jerry Miculek DVD, Trigger Job.)

I contacted S&W about cleaning it without damaging the coatings on the frame or cylinder, and they recommended a product called "Nevr Dull", which I got in the auto department at WalMart. I think it's basically just cotton batting soaked in mineral spirits.

Even if you decide to shoot .38s, by getting a .357, you have something more durable, which is always a good thing.