Smith and Wesson N Frames

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MagnumDweeb

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Okay I've been bothered by this for some time. Smith and Wesson N-Frames there is no shortage of DIY-selfers going ahead and switching parts out on guns like the Model 28 and converting it to .45 ACP or Colt when it was originally .357 magnum. I get that the frames are the same size and pretty much the rest of the parts but the cylinder and barrel. I'll admit if I came across a junker Model 28 and could have it safely converted to .45 ACP with a 3" barrel for 60% of the cost of a new 625 in .45 ACP with a 4" barrel I would.

Then there's the 625, 629, etc.. Are the parts that different from the earlier made 25s and 29s. I'm curious. I've read that the 629 and 625 are made using MIM parts but would this prevent a qualified gunsmith from fitting a 625 cylinder to a 28 for a conversion. I know an older gentleman with an old and ugly 27 3.5" that is heavily pitted on the barrel and cylinder. The frame is slightly pitted and he is only asking $160. The gun seems mechanically fine from what I can tell and other than the aesthetic it's a great gun. I figure with the spare parts it'd be a fun testing of my metal to do the conversion myself and then paying a qualified gunsmith to check it once over. At worst it'll be a decent truck gun loaded with .38 special to last a lifetime or two.

I've done Semi-Auto only AK, FAL, and PPSH 43 pistol and CETME parts kits in my Uncle's garage, cursed and shouted but still turned out a good firearm. It can't really be all too much more can it?
 
Actually if you find a nice priced S&W 1917 and cut it down to 3" you could do that even cheaper and easier. Often you'll find refinished or otherwise altered ones that aren't all that valuable as a collector so they make good project guns.
 
The .357 Magnum models 27 and 28 have barrels with narrow ribs. Most of the other target-grade N-frames have barrels with wide ones. This makes a minor misfit between the front of the frame at the topstrap and rib at the back end of the barrel.

The newer production guns with MIM lockwork also have two-piece barrels. I'm not sure if newer barrels could be retro fitted to an earlier frame or not, but I'd consider it to be a factory job, and I'm not sure that S&W would do it. That said, you could ask.

Then there is the issue of remounting the front sight ramp and blade. On a S&W the front sight is usually part of the barrel forging (at least on older guns).

I have a feeling that having the conversion done, including refinishing - would cost more then simply buying a large-bore N-frame in the first place.
 
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It would... I just got a quote from Bowen for that service... he doesn't recommend using the .357 cylinder as a basis for .45 conversions anymore as the chamber walls end up being too thin in some cases. He recommends finding a .45 cylinder.

It is definitely cost prohibitive.

It would be extremely cool, though, IMO. :cool:
 
I converted a M28-2 from 357 to 45 ACP. With the exception of the reboring of the barrel I was able to do all the work myself. Was it cheaper than a comparable revolver? Maybe, but at the time, S&W did not offer a 4" skiiny barreled 45 ACP. Is it a lot of work? Yes. If I had to do it again, the hard part is finding someone who can rebore the barrel. Depending on what cartridge you select you don't need to buy a new cylinder, just recut the original. I happened to have had a 45 ACP cylinder available.

The new guns with all the new technology are a mystery to me. I quit buying years ago, when the -3s were introduced. I have no working knowledge of MIM or two peice barrels from S&W. If you want to work on S&W revolvers, stick with the older ones. The idea of cutting a 1917 to 3" is not bad, but stay standard velocity ammo. The old warhorse will not like a steady diet of the hot stuff.
 
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Yeah, so far I've found I can't use the new 6## revolver parts on the older ones. The older N series barrels will work with some filing and machining from what I've found. A S&W 25 barrel will fit on a S&W 29 frame. Same with the cylinder. There will have to be some filing(from what I've gathered I need to find some jewelers files) to fit the barrel and make it look nice.

At worst I might have to cut down a 25 5" barrel to the necessary length. Cutting the barrel shorter and putting in a new front sight won't be too much trouble. For all the headache though I might just throw the 27 in the glove box and call it a day. After that I might invest in a 29 3" .44 mag and stick with .44 special.
 
Conv. N Frames

Been up gradein' those ol' gentlemen for years,

38-44 HD 38Spl to .44Special
SW38-4444spl3inch002.jpg

Old Highway Patrolman...Now a .45 Long Colt
IMG_0010AA.jpg

M 27 .357 now a .44Special
IMG_0432.jpg


Su Amigo,
Dave
 
One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the cylinder stop stud in the frame.

It is too far to the rear when the cylinder on a rimmed caliber is shortened for .45 ACP moon-clip headspace.
That allows the cylinder to slop back and forth when it is open.

The old guns had replaceable studs pressed into the frame so you could change them.

The new guns have it molded right into the frame, and you can't make it longer without welding and the risk & expense that incurs.

rc
 
rcmodel

One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the cylinder stop stud in the frame.

It is too far to the rear when the cylinder on a rimmed caliber is shortened for .45 ACP moon-clip headspace.
That allows the cylinder to slop back and forth when it is open.

The old guns had replaceable studs pressed into the frame so you could change them

Correct, they are still available if you have an older revolver.

"29 031030000 $2.90 X FRAME LUG"

from

http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore/SmWesson2/upload/other/RevPartsList_Retail.pdf

An arbor press is helpful to remove and replace them.
 
Look at a side view of the .45 ACP revolvers compared to the others with - the .45 ACP N frames have a wider gap tween the frame and rear of
the cylinder - as well as the cylinder being shorter for the short .45 ACP or
.45 Auto RIm case.

+1 to rcmodel strawhat and old fuff as well as others.... yeah but

but it'll cost yah

R-
 
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