Snubie with a hammer...

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Macchina

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I want a snub 357. At first (and still might) I was thinking an LCR. However, when I shoot my 4.2" SP101 I love having the single action available. What should I be looking at in the 2" range? I'm thinking a model 60 S&W. What can I expect to pay for one right now? Any other SA/DA revolvers I should look at?
 
PS: before someone smart gets in here, I understand all revolvers have hammers. The title refers to a SA/DA snubie ;)
 
If it is your intention to fire .357 Magnum ammunition in a small “snubby” I strongly suggest that if possible you try whatever you pick before making a purchase. These pocket cannons live up to their names and produce substantial amounts of muzzle blast and flash as well as hand & wrist pounding recoil that makes quick but accurate follow-up shots difficult, if not impossible. The small 2-finger boot grips that come on them doesn’t help.

In my view the Ruger SP101 is the best of the crop, followed by one based on Smith & Wesson’s K or L frame, and the latter has charms.
 
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The majority of folks who buy J-Frame .357's end up shooting +P .38 Special in them because full power .357 is just too unplesent & painful.

So, IMO?
You might as well get a .38 Spl J-Frame to start with.

They are lighter, and slightly shorter.

rc
 
Price of a 60 will vary with your location I believe. I have 60 in my pocket and I would guess $450-$500 in Georgia
 
I bought mine "Bobbed" by a previous owner. I do not believe in firing a D/A Revolver, S/A. The min reason for buying a D.A is to haave a rapid fire capibility,
You should forget S/A shooting with your Snubbie and concentrate on training that index finger and accurate bullet placement!
THe Snubbie is a find close quarters fighting gun.
Pratice and you'll feel a lot more comfortable carrying that sweet little Snubby!
HTH
BPDave
 
I want a snub 357. At first (and still might) I was thinking an LCR. However, when I shoot my 4.2" SP101 I love having the single action available. What should I be looking at in the 2" range? I'm thinking a model 60 S&W. What can I expect to pay for one right now? Any other SA/DA revolvers I should look at?

Since you say you like the Ruger you have, I would simply get an SP101 with the 2.25 Inch barrel. The model 60 is a fine choice too, but it's $150-200 dollars more expensive than the Ruger and only a couple oz lighter and a fraction of an inch smaller. Any other .357 snubs I know of are either too light to comfortably shoot full bore magnum rounds comfortably (Ruger LCR or S&W alloy J Frames) or are of questionable quality (Taurus or Charter) YMMV. :)

Sent from the Andromeda galaxy using Tachyon particles
 
These four snub .357s show 'hammerless' and exposed hammers.

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The S&W 60-1 here has a hammer as well as one of the Ruger SP-101s.

While I prefer Centennial style 'hammerless' J frames still the ones with exposed spurs do have an edge at precision shooting.

The S&W Bodyguard model 38 tries to have it both ways (and ends up being called the humpback.)

Deaf
 
I like those banana grips on the 60-1.
I, also, normally prefer the Centennial.
 
My SP101 is not bad to shoot 357. I also have a 2" Taurus 617. This is a Seven shot 357. With the Taurus Ribber Grip or Hogue Rubber Grip, it can handle any 357 Ammo comfortably. It has a little more size and carries in or on the belt.
 
I've carried an exposed hammer 637 for years in my pocket, IWB, OWB, shoulder holster and ankle carry. While I have yet to draw it for a true SD scenario, I practice regularly drawing it from all of these methods of carry. I have yet to have the hammer "snag" or get caught up on anything. While there is no real advantage of having SA on a designated SD firearm intended for sort range, it does come in hardy when just "playin" at the range or when I woods carry it.

I tend to mirror RC's opinion on J-Frame .357s.
The majority of folks who buy J-Frame .357's end up shooting +P .38 Special in them because full power .357 is just too unplesent & painful.

So, IMO?
You might as well get a .38 Spl J-Frame to start with.

They are lighter, and slightly shorter.

rc
 
I bought an early model 60 a few days ago from a guy here in Houston. I paid 460 for it and the guy gave me a couple galco holsters with it. From the research I did before I bought it, the price on these can vary from about $400 for a used one to about 600 for a 'like new' one. Btw, you might consider a model 36: same gun, but they seem to be a bit cheaper than a 60.

-JJ
+1 on RC's post. .38 +p will get the job done just fine in a sd scenario
 
One gun for range play - one gun for self defense use. Simple. I do firmly believe that a revolver carried for defense use should be DAO. All of my carry guns are DAO revos. Shooting DA quickly AND accurately takes time and practice to master but it can be done by most people if they apply themselves.
 
One gun for range play - one gun for self defense use. Simple. I do firmly believe that a revolver carried for defense use should be DAO. All of my carry guns are DAO revos. Shooting DA quickly AND accurately takes time and practice to master but it can be done by most people if they apply themselves.


Whenever this discussion of SA vs DA comes up, there is always those that claim or imply the same things.......

1.) A SD firearm cannot/should not be used a range gun also, as somehow being familiar and comfortable with it lessens one's ability with it.

2.) Somehow a DA only SD revolver is inherently more accurate/dependable than a SA/DA SD revolver.

3.) That those with SD revolvers capable of SA/DA never practice shooting the firearm in DA for some unknown reason.

4.) That others with SA/DA revolvers never become as proficient as they are with their DA only SD firearm, because the SA option is just a crutch for those folk's inaccuracy.

yeah......okay:rolleyes:
 
Find a Smith 19/66 2 or 3 inch and put Pachmayr grips on it.
"...or N frame, and the latter has charms... Like being enormous.
 
I'm rather fond of my Taurus 617 2" Stainless steel. I hear people day that there were problems with the Titanium model, however mine has been nothing but a pleasure to shoot. Loaded up with 7 rounds of. 357 Golden Saber it is controllable and is more than accurate enough.


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I had the misfortune firing a 2-inch SP-101 with .357 mag in an indoor range with a double ear protection (ear plug then muff on top). I have NO desire to do that again. I can not imagine firing that in a SD situation without ear protection, especially inside of my house.

I bought a 638 instead. A .38 +P loaded with the "FBI load" is more than adequate for SD in a J-frame. I practice shooting it in a DA mode but I do like the option to be able to shoot SA mode. When I want to shoot a .357 mag, I use my K-frame 2-inch model 19 or my L-frame 4-inch 686.
 
I find the low profile of the hammerless models carry, draw, and shoot more accurately for me. A good trigger job goes a long way. If precision shooting is what you are after get a set of Crimson Trace lasergrips.
BTW, my 12oz 340pd shoots .357 mags just fine, it is the followup shots that are more difficult. For that reason I do use 135 gr. short barrel gold dots for everyday carry.

340pd.jpg
 
Why exposed hammer with spur? The only thing those are suitable for is hunting or silhouette shooting, but totally useless for defensive purposes. Snub with exposed hammer is like cow with penis.
 
Why exposed hammer with spur? The only thing those are suitable for is hunting or silhouette shooting, but totally useless for defensive purposes. Snub with exposed hammer is like cow with penis.

Having to shoot a vicious dog off of a screaming child while separated from the dog and child by an 8 foot high wire fence comes immediately to mind.
 
I think an SP101 is a fine gun, though I do regret having bought mine with a spurred hammer.

It tames .357 to comfortable recoil levels, and I think it could even be a bit lighter for carry without becoming uncomfortable to shoot.

Still, that hammer was a mistake. Even when I shoot targets, I rarely fire single-action because I'd never take a SA shot in a defense situation. Seems like a waste of bullets and bad training methodology.
 
In my view the Ruger SP101 is the best of the crop, followed by one based on Smith & Wesson’s K or N frame, and the latter has charms.

I'm another fan of the SP101 for this; either 2 1/4 or 3 1/16" tube will do.

While I am also a die hard DAO fan for EDC firearms, the hammer SPs are super easy to find, and fairly easy to shoot. They are also rugged.

Old Fuff, far be it for me to question your experience, but did you mean S&W K frame (eg. 19/66) and S&W L frame (eg. 2 1/2" 686)?
 
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