So i had a stuck pawl plunger in my ROA.

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BADUNAME30

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Neshannock, Pa.
A few days back i attempted to remedy and correct the issue.
The Pawl would only work if the gun was pointed downward indicating that the pawl would only work by gravity and not under spring pressure.
After disassembling the gun i could not get the spring or plunger to come out of the gun.Pulling on the spring did nothing but stretch the spring.
The hammer and pawl combination would not come out either indicating that the plunger was partialy forward just enough to prevent the pawl from being pulled past it.
I sprayed some Free All in there and allowed it to soak a day er 3 and today again attempted to remove the pawl.I pulled a bit harder on the spring/pawl assembly this time and it finaly pulled free of the gun.
I could now see that my suspicians were correct. The plunger was indeed partialy forward prohiting the pawl from being removed earlier. The soaking freed the plunger just enough to allow the pawl to be pulled past it while forcing the plunger back into it's channel.
Once the pawl was finaly removed i could see enough of the plunger exposed that i could get a tool in there and ease it back into it's channel. I was able to move it enough to 'break' it loose and pull it out.
This is what i found.
As you can see the plunger is literaly caked with crusted powder residue.
Enough to 'freeze' it into place and prevent it from moving at all.
IMGP1662.jpg
After a bit more soaking, out of the gun,i was able to clean it up proper and she now works like she's supposed to.
In the end. Patience, some Free All and time solved this issue.
Jist thot i'd share.
BTW, this is a '200 Year' model in beautiful condition that i bought "broke".
 
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I obviously really need to learn to take mine completely apart.
I've yet to buy the screwdrivers or punch/mallet.
I was always told that when it came to a revolver to never disassemble it, that it was work to be done by a smith.
What is Free All?
 
Don't be afraid to take yer ROA all the way down Bob.
With cartriage pistols it's a matter of preference but with black powder it's allmost a must to get all that residue out of the 'action'.Or, you can end up with issues just like i just dealt with.
Some folks actualy chuck thier ROA's, minus the stocks, into thier dishwashers but i prefer to see what's goin on inside mine and keep them thoroughly maintained.
Spend the money on quality screwdrives so as not to damage screw heads.
The ROA screws have Loc-Tite on 'em from the factory so they are 'stuck' the first time you remove 'em. Make sure that the screw driver blade fits completely into the screw slot.( Actualy fills the slot completely).The last thing you wanna do is bugger a screw head up or worse, have the screw driver slip and carve a divet across yer gun.
You'll get varying opinions on this issue but i like to know what's goin on inside my guns and that they'll function properly.
Use your guns schematic to help you get thru it until you learn the proceedure and/or just ask those familiar with doin it.
Tip:gently tapping on the end of the screw driver handle while keeping steady turning pressure onit helps to break loose the Loc-Tite.
 
The Chapman screwdriver set was recommended to me.

I have been using an ordinary screwdriver to take the grips off for cleaning, and did take the grip frame off once. Took a bit to get it all lined back together. I do it very carefully.

I've tried the dishwasher trick, and it didn't work. I just use a small plastic storage container and fill it with hot water and Dawn and get to scrubbing. Then I put it in the dishwasher on the dry cycle.

The only hard part I find is the nipple area and nipples. That stuff just doesn't want to come off!

I recently bought a can of Ballistol, but I've been using WD40.

I never could find any anti seize. Was told by a fellow at my LGS to just use WD40.
 
I LOVE my Chapmans. I've had 'em fer 'bout 30 years.
I don't think they have all the correct sizes for the ROA tho. I will check it out tomorow and let you know.
My main screwdrivers are Brownel's but i bot 'em 'bout 25 years ago and they are very pricey now. Allthough, you can actualy call Brownel's tech and they will tell you exactly what size tips you need for any particular gun and you could then by a handle and only those tips.Which by the way are gauranteed.
Actualy, they are hex just like a screw driver bit for you drill so you could just buy the bits you need and get a handle at Sears much cheaper.
I think that WD-40 is water based. Either way, stay with the Balistol and you'll be fine.
Any auto parts store will have Anti-Sieze.Either in a bottle( more than you'll usin in a lifetime lol), or smal packets.
If your part stores don't have it i would be seriously suprised.Had i known this Bob i would o' stuck some in the package with yer stand.
If you really don't find it i'll chuck some in an envelope and mail it to ya.
You really do NEED it for your nipples.
 
I would have thought that the larger Chapman set, with 24 screwdriver bits, would have covered everything! I could see their smaller set with half as many not quite suitable.

I have to get a pint of outboard motor oil, and will check there for anti seize. If not, I'll try an auto parts place. I think a bottle sounds better just for the piece of mind of it not getting all over stuff.

I also have teflon tape that I've heard of people using. Wasn't too sure about that with all of the heat.
 
WOW ! I had no clue there was a 24 pc. set !!
Like i said, i bot mine 30 years ago.
The 24 pc'r sounds like something i need lol.
Teflon tape doesn't sound like a very good idea.
As i said, the parts store will have it.
And yes, it does indeed get all over if you use too much.
 
"And yes, it does indeed get all over if you use too much."

I am fearing the storing of the unused portion in a little package. I assume it's something like the battery terminal grease.

Is your set the smaller 12 piece screwdriver plus a few extra things one? I'm curious as to whether or not it can handle the Ruger. Could just get that set and buy any heads that I find I need.

I'm not sure what kind of temperature teflon tape can handle.
 
Right now i am using the Anti Seize from wee packets from the parts store.
I'm going to squeeze those into a film bottle, ( remember that stuff? .35mm film ? lol), and put a tooth pick in there as an applicator.You only need to put one wee bit on each nipple and it will 'spread' out when it's installed.

Yes Bob, i have the small set.
When we return from church i will check the bits with my ROA and let ya know this afternoon.
 
Another option is Gorilla Grease which comes in a little tub and can be applied with the end of a small screwdriver or toothpick. It's in a paste - like form and will last along time. I've been using it for years and the nipples come out easy every time I clean my cap and ball revolvers. Gorilla Grease is sold at Cabela's, Midway USA, Cheaper Than Dirt, etc.
Sorry to interrupt Jim.

Eddie
 
Film canisters are an excellent idea! If I cannot find anti seize I may just give the Gorilla Grease that Eddie mentioned a look see. WD40 seemed an odd substitute. It's worked so far, but maybe that's due to my going to the range every couple of weeks? WD40 can't be good for everything!

I'm certainly interested in whether or not the small set has all the tips needed. Appreciate it!
 
rodwha,

You can usually find anti-seize lube from an auto parts store. I got mine at NAPA. Just read the labels. Most of the products are a "white grease" if you can see the color.
 
Another option is Gorilla Grease which comes in a little tub and can be applied with the end of a small screwdriver or toothpick. It's in a paste - like form and will last along time. I've been using it for years and the nipples come out easy every time I clean my cap and ball revolvers. Gorilla Grease is sold at Cabela's, Midway USA, Cheaper Than Dirt, etc.
Sorry to interrupt Jim.

Eddie, please don't be apologizin'
You are not interuptin.This is an open forum and we are all here to share our knowledges and experiences.
All input is welcome.
At least in my threads anywho.
 
I'm certainly interested in whether or not the small set has all the tips needed. Appreciate it!
I just carefully checked all the bits and i'm not happy with the findings.
They would 'work' but only one fits proper like and that is only in the 3 trigger gaurd screws.BUT, there is also a problem there.Allthough the bit fits the screw slot correctly you can't get to the screw correctly once it's installed in the handle or the extension. It hits the trigger gaurd.
I would not go with the Chapman set specificaly for the ROA. Although it is a good and inexpensive set in other gun applications.
A good gunsmithing screw driver will be precisely hollow ground and fill the slot of the screw in such a way that the bit will actualy fill the slot and stand in it on it's own.
I just checked out the Chapman 27 piece set Bob and it just the same set i have with allen bits added. No real advantage there unless you need the allens.
Good quality 'smithin' screw drivers are not inexpensive but it is a worthwile investment if you want to properly care for your guns.
I haven't 'smithed on 20 years and i'm sure there are sets on the market now that i'm not aware of.
I have the Brownel's Magna-Tip super set that i bot over 30 years ago and today they are very expensive.You can buy just a handle and only the bits you need tho at a much lesser cost. You could then piece meal it together into a larger set over time if you wanted.
Another option is Grace gunsmithing screwdrivers. They are one piece wooden handled hollow ground but very good tools. I have them also and can attest to thier good fit.
Chapman, Grace and Magna-tips are the 3 that i own and have experience with Bob. There are many sets to choose from at both Brownel's and at Midway.
I don't know about Midway but Brownel's has a VERY experienced gunsmith staffed tech support team that can advise you on exactly the size bits you need for the ROA. It's only 4 bits and one handle to get started.
In fact, they have this Ruger Single Action specific set that maybe they can/will alter to fit the ROA.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=25459/Product/RUGER-SINGLE-ACTION-SCREWDRIVER
 
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Anti-seize compound will be either copper or silver-colored, depending on whether it's copper or nickel based. Doesn't seem to make a big difference which one you use.
I use both at work. Nickel, because it's what I had on hand originally.
Copper, because it's what was issued to me when I requested is.

If your vehicle has aluminum cylinder heads, it's a great idea to use Anti-seize on your spark plug threads, when replacing them. You haven't lived, until you've had to remove a stuck spark plug from an aluminum head.

I need to get off my rear and use anti-seize on my nipples.
 
Lookin' through my Lyman's catalog I see Pachmayr has a set which looks to have 13 common tips (31 all together).

But maybe buying a handle and the tips I need for the Ruger will do. Once I get others I can find the tips I'll need to "complete" my set.

While at Wal Mart (was in a hurry) getting outboard motor oil I couldn't find any anti seize there in the automotive section. I'll look elsewhere.
 
I have both Chapman's set and a fairly large selection of Brownell's Magna-tips. The Chapman's set is kept in my range box and the Brownell's stuff is on my work bench. The difficulty in buying the Brownell's set piece by piece is in knowing which ones to buy; the staff at Brownell's is very helpful in that regard.

Jim, West PA's observation about the Chapman's set and the interference with the trigger guard on the Old Army is correct.

Film canisters are kind of rare these days, but something I always seem to have much more of than I need are prescription bottles; the smaller ones work just fine for lube and anti-sieze and the larger ones contain sorted round balls of various weights and dimensions.
 
I can't contribute to the ROA portion of this thread but WalMart sells a screw driver set with a Winchester logo on it. For the most part the tips aren't sized correctly to work on my Uberti replicas.

The rear sight on my Colt's Musket flops up and down so I thought I would tighten the through bolt. One of the bits in the Winchester set seemed to fit so I gave it a try.

It turned out the bit was very soft and twisted badly buggering my screw on my brand new unfired Musket.
COLT027.jpg
 
I feel yer pain Coupe. Last week i was workin on my very clean 200 year ROA and my bad eyes caused me to grab the wrong bit and.......ohhh the pain. :(

Yeah, go 'head and tease us with a blurry pic o' that beautiful shooter Coupe.
 
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What is Free All?
Bob, forgive me for not answering this when you asked.
This is Free All.I came across this in a fastener store and i must say that i am seriously impressed with it's ability to do exactly what it claims.
IMGP1663.JPG
I have never used a better penetrating 'oil' before and i have tried 'em all.

While at Wal Mart (was in a hurry) getting outboard motor oil I couldn't find any anti seize there in the automotive section. I'll look elsewhere.

Ahh...mmm..ok, at the risk of being redundant.
GO TO A CAR PARTS STORE !!!! lol
Sorry, i couldn't resist.:)
 
I will be the first to admit that I am no photographer.

I use Liquid Wrench for loosening things. The smell of takes me back to the 50s when dad and I were changing sweeps of cultivators.
 
Third Day is among my most favorite groups!

I know, I know... I'll make it eventually. I live just on the outskirts of town and don't have one around the corner. But I intend on stopping by before Sunday's range trip so I can use it after I clean it up.
 
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