Speaking of flinters...

[Officers'Wife]

A little trick that my grandfather taught me on flintlocks is after you load it to tap the side of the lock. This causes a small amount of the main charge to "wiggle" into the touch-hole aiding ignition. Gramps always claimed he learned the trick from his great-grandfather who never did "cotton to those newfangled caplocks."

I have a thirty-six caliber replica "squirrel rifle" that my uncle made me from the kit. I enjoy shooting it on so many levels that it would be a waste of time and bandwidth to even attempt to describe.

 

[98Redline]

I don't think that doing that is going to move any more of the main charge farther down the flash hole.
Most touch hole liners have a small cone facing the chamber to help get some of the main charge nearer the actual ignition source. When you pour your powder in, and certainly by the time you are done seating the ball or bullet, that little cone will be fully packed with powder. If you have seated your projectile correctly, the main charge will be packed tight and the powder is not likely to move around at all, much less migrate farther up the touch hole.

I suspect that your good ignition is a by-product of good loading and priming technique, with a dash of decent spark, and a good touch hole geometry.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

I have heard that the old timers stuck a small feather in the touch hole to make a tiny channel into the main charge during loading. It was supposed to make ignition more reliable. I have tried it and it seems to work. I am always afraid the feather will break off in the touch hole. I will sometimes use my vent pick to poke a channel into the charge.

 

[Norton Commando]

There's not much I can add to the flintlock shooting experience that hasn't already been discussed in previous posts.

I use FFFG in my 50 caliber bore and pan with good results.

Notably, the flintlock long-rifle is an American invention, driven by the need for long-range accuracy and limited lead and black powder during the "frontier days".

 

[Officers'Wife]

I don't think that doing that is going to move any more of the main charge farther down the flash hole.
Most touch hole liners have a small cone facing the chamber to help get some of the main charge nearer the actual ignition source. When you pour your powder in, and certainly by the time you are done seating the ball or bullet, that little cone will be fully packed with powder. If you have seated your projectile correctly, the main charge will be packed tight and the powder is not likely to move around at all, much less migrate farther up the touch hole.

I suspect that your good ignition is a by-product of good loading and priming technique, with a dash of decent spark, and a good touch hole geometry.

Perhaps, but my grandfather was far more experienced in that kind of weapon than I will ever be. Add to the fact I discovered to my sorrow it was a bad idea to argue with the man when he was alive and I suspect it would be foolish now that he has gone to his reward. I suppose it goes back to faith, if that tap on the lock does help ignition it's a good thing, if it doesn't but gives the operator just a bit more confidence in the weapon... It may not be right but it's not a bad thing either.

 

[MEHavey]

...afraid the feather will break off in the touch hole.

Just use a stiff piece of copper wire.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

Notably, the flintlock long-rifle is an American invention, driven by the need for long-range accuracy and limited lead and black powder during the "frontier days".[/QUOTE] The American long rifle is more of a refinement on an existing theme. It was modified, caliber sizes reduced and stocks slimmed down all to meet with a changing environment. Much of the carving and especially the patchbox are unique to America.

 

[Mike OTDP]

One point. 4F is OK for priming, but Swiss Null B (about 7F) is far superior. Spread a thin layer over the entire pan when you prime - you want the first spark into the pan to hit powder.

 

[4v50 Gary]

Both Wallace Gusler and I have fired over 100 shots with the same flint. I was being cheap and lazy.

 

[Mn Fats]

The first rule, don't buy a flintlock with a cheap lock.

Not to be a hijacker but I've decided to go with flint over percussion. And Lyman over Traditions. How's the lock on the Lyman great plains? Will that be ok for a flintlock?

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Lyman has a very good reputation for having a good lock. So does the Pedersoli Frontier rifle, which is also the Cabela's Blue Ridge Hunter.

LD

 

[bc38]

Buy the best flintlock you can afford AND THEN SPEND MORE $! Cheap flinters cause hair loss, heart trouble, and tourette syndrome from the stress trying to make them fire RELIABLY. a good flinter is a joy to own and shoot.

 

[eastbank]

my wife says flintlocks are the same as skunks, they both stink when you shoot them.

 

[Officers'Wife]

my wife says flintlocks are the same as skunks, they both stink when you shoot them.

I'm sorry to hear you managed to marry a heathen. Take heart- if I can convince my formerly gun-hating father-in-law to take up hunting after a few meals of molasses cured venison ham you may be able to teach her appreciation for the value of history.

 

[paul harm]

YES to the Lyman, without a doubt. And if you're talking about the Lyman "Hawken" - it actually looks like a Hawken unlike the old TC Hawken. You won't be sorry. Back in the 70's a cop friend bought one and he loved it.

 

[4v50 Gary]

Mn Fats - my first flintlock was a Lyman Great Plains. It works great.

 

[Iggy]

Lyman Great Plains rifle is the best non-custom rifle you will find.

 

[eastbank]

I made two mistakes, first was shooting a skunk off the garbage can lid(poor shot,very dark) and the second was cleaning the muzzle loader in the bath tub and her catching me when she came home early.( before I used the FEBREZE). she has not trusted since she caught me using the dog as a dish washer.

 

[98Redline]

So I did a bit more searching and reading about the feather/wire/pick, in the vent liner when loading, to figure out what is going on there. Based on the writings of those far more experienced than I with a flinter, the purpose of the pick is not to create a "pocket" in the main charge so much as it is to keep any powder granules out of the vent hole. Powder in the vent will cause slow ignition of the main charge. A clear vent hole allows the flame from the pan to travel into the main charge, unimpeded and will greatly improve the speed of ignition.

The other interesting thing I learned was that a highly polished pan is something that will help you out in wet or damp weather.
The polished pan allows all of the burned residue from your previous shot to be removed, which limits how much water will be absorbed by the priming charge. Apparently black powder is not terribly hygroscopic (absorbs water) but the burnt residue is. Failure to remove all of it from the pan will turn your priming charge into a soupy, sticky, unfireable mess in fairly short order if it happens to be uber humid or raining.

 

[bannockburn]

eastbank

Talk about getting caught red-handed, or in this case sticky-pawed!

Priceless!

 

[Shanghai McCoy]

I made two mistakes, first was shooting a skunk off the garbage can lid(poor shot,very dark) and the second was cleaning the muzzle loader in the bath tub and her catching me when she came home early.( before I used the FEBREZE). she has not trusted since she caught me using the dog as a dish washer.

Puppy pre-wash...
Yep, BTDT.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

Been wanting a GPR for a while now, I sold one to a fellow a long time ago without ever shooting it. It is the closest thing to a real Hawken I have seen in a production gun. Quality is excellent.

 

[Mn Fats]

Take heart- if I can convince my formerly gun-hating father-in-law to take up hunting after a few meals of molasses cured venison ham..

Pm me that recipe

 

[loose noose]

I've noted that the least amount of powder you put in the pan, in other words filled just below the touch hole, the quicker the ignition will be, especially if you're prone to anticipating recoil. Also the touch hole should be cleared, prior to putting a charge in the pan.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

I usually put just a thin line in the middle of the pan. It works for me. I also use the same powder as the main charge, no priming horn or fine powder. I found that course powder doesn't do the fuse thing like the fine stuff does.