Speed Reloads & Cylinder Machining

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When you reload do you keep the revolver in the strong hand while shoving in the rounds with the weak hand like shown in first video posted by mcb above? If so that will slow you down, a lot.

There are several good ways & valid to reload. Weak and strong hand reloads are both valid and done by top shooters. With HKS speed loaders, though, I do happen think you'd be better of with a strong hand reload (i.e. strong hand handling the speed loader), since you have to twist the knob to release the rounds.

BTW, the OP's shooting a Ruger, but IMO, those reloading S&Ws with speed loaders best use a strong hand reload as well, since the yoke screw is the Achilles heel of the S&W design, and something a speed loader really can stress (or cause to fail) the screw if the cylinder assembly is left unsupported during weak hand reloads.

And speaking of the OP, I forgot to ask: Where on your person do you keep your speed loaders? Fishing them out of a pocket will cost you a lot of time. Best get some kydex topless holders, and place them on your belt on the same side as the the hand you'll use to grab them.
 
There are several good ways & valid to reload. Weak and strong hand reloads are both valid and done by top shooters. With HKS speed loaders, though, I do happen think you'd be better of with a strong hand reload (i.e. strong hand handling the speed loader), since you have to twist the knob to release the rounds.
I heartily agree.

I've reloaded both ways, manipulating the speedloader with either hand, to compare efficiency and each has their strengths and weaknesses. I found that a lot has to do with how you choose to manipulate the ejection rod and how you want to move the gun during the process...there are a lot of subtleties involved...moving faster isn't always the quickest reload
 
BTW I have HKS speed loaders and without practice I can reload in around 2 sec.

How do you carry your ammo? I think that is something that is either helping or hindering me, and I'm not sure which.

I started out carrying loaders in the two-pocket speedloader pouch. But I'm shooting around 50-80 rounds in a stage, 20-30 rounds in a string. So I went to a "dump pouch." I start the stage with 15 loaded speedloaders in a pouch on my front right side, just ahead of the revolver/holster. When I reload, I eject the brass, reach into the pouch with my right hand, and grab a speedloader. Sometimes I have to tumble it around to get it right side up and ready to go into the cylinder.

But I can't find any way to carry that much ammo, that many speedloaders, at one time.
 
When you reload do you keep the revolver in the strong hand while shoving in the rounds with the weak hand like shown in first video posted by mcb above? If so that will slow you down, a lot.
I'm doing the Massad Ayoob stress reload. On the last shot, I raise the barrel to about 45 deg (I'll get DQ'd if I raise it fully vertical uoward.), hit the cylinder release with my right thumb while pushing on the right side of the cylinder with the my left hand fingertips. I hit the ejector rod hard with the web of my left hand, and grab the cylinder with my left hand - all the while bringing the barrel down to almost vertical. (I'll get DQ'd if I go fully vertical downward.) As soon as the cylinder is in my left hand, I'm going with my right hand to a dump pouch full of speedloaders. I go over the top of the revolver grip and load the cylnder using my right hand. Left hand holds the cylinder from rotating when I turn the knob on the speedloader. Speedloader falls away (or I throw it down) and as soon as my right hand is empty, I use it to grab the revolver grip. Close the cylinder with the left hand and bring the muzzle and sights back to target.



One (maybe the only) thing I don't like about this, is it requires my total attention and focus; I lose ALL visual of the targets, the range, everything. The entire world narrows down to the cylinder face and the speedloader.
 
And speaking of the OP, I forgot to ask: Where on your person do you keep your speed loaders? Fishing them out of a pocket will cost you a lot of time. Best get some kydex topless holders, and place them on your belt on the same side as the the hand you'll use to grab them.

I carry them in a dump pouch on my right side in front of the gun.

I've never seen or heard of kydex speedloader carriers.
 
Definitely not!o_O
I feel better :oops:

I'm usually at 3.5sec between shots...with the occasional dip into 3sec, but not reliably

The fastest I've ever seen...on YouTube...was 1.47sec. But that was between hammer snaps (no sight picture before or after) with moonclips...FWIW, he was a lefty shooter
 
I hesitate to jump into this discussion for several reasons but mainly because I'm certain to offend someone. OK you guys don't be offended just take this as one persons opinion. Also not sure if you are shooting static steel or falling steel where reloads are probably required.

I started shooting revolver in a (static steel) steel league, my first year was 2015. When I started I was using a S&W 686 with a 4" barrel, 6 shot capacity, reloads using safariland comp 3 speed loaders. My performance in this local league in 2015 was similar to D.B. Cooper, always at the bottom. Although it's difficult to put this into a baseline score because every match was set up differently, there is always 5 targets including a stop plate, 5 strings per stage, 5 stages per match, throw out the worse string in each stage, minimum 125 shots, after the throw-outs 100 shots count. Sort of the same as steel challenge except always 5 stages per match and the stages are wildcats. The league is similar to steel challenge.

So again there usually are about 20 revolver shooters more or less so it's isn't just me against the bottom feeders. First year I averaged a time of roughly 270 seconds. I actually didn't finish last for the year, rather second to last LOL! Second year (2016) I averaged again give or take about 160 seconds, last year 105 seconds and this year I'm running in the low to mid 80s +/-. Also, last year I started shooting Steel Challenge optical sight revolver. First 8 stage match shoot 266 seconds (classified D), I was just this week re-classified to A, I'm running about the high 130s. In Steel Challenge iron sight I'm classified B, I will shoot about 165 at this juncture. My point in all of this is I have been the goat and suffered maximum humiliation but have made (in my opinion) a lot of progress. This is for me been a 3+ year struggle. So, I'm not a Master but I know a few things about this.

There are a couple of truths that have to be brought out and this is where I'm going to insult someone or something. First thing is practice. As others have posted you must dryfire often and use a shot timer with a par feature. If, as another poster mentioned, if you lose 1/2 second on your draw that is a gain of 2 seconds per stage, 10 seconds/match in a 5 stage match. Your draw needs to be about 1.5 seconds or better.

Revolver has the disadvantage of a long heavy double action trigger. It sort of makes up for that in that you can load as light a load as you want. My loads are close to rimfire, all you need to do is get the bullet to exit the muzzle, you are not cycling a slide. Take advantage of that. Of course if you are shooting plate racks or falling steel then you need something with a bit more ommph.

In theory there is nothing wrong with 44 magnum. The real problem is the number of rounds. Six is not enough. In (for example) steel challenge there is no chance of doing well, even semi-well, if you are doing reloads on the clock. There are two options, first is never miss, the second is use a revo that holds 7 or better yet 8 rounds. Even with 8 rounds in the cylinder, the goal is to have 1 shot, 1 hit. For every miss figure an extra second added to the score. So to be clear on this accuracy is vital but having the extra rounds is useful. All of the top steel challenge revolver shooters use 8 round revolvers. There are no exceptions that I'm aware of. So, the discussion about moon clips vs. speed loaders is irrelevant because as mentioned reloads on the clock are death. My first year I was doing many on the clock reloads, So far this year I have done 1 on the clock reload and that is 1 too many but things don't always go as planned.

I have shot with guys that have 6 shot 625s and never miss but I can usually beat them because I have some extra rounds for make up shots. I see no advantage in a 625 over a 44 magnum or .357 686 (if they are cut for moons) because again, while a 625 with moons is faster to reload you simply don't want to reload.

Lets say you have a wall of steel in your league. Suppose there are 30 or 40 falling steel plates. There you have to reload, even the auto-loaders have to. But with 8 shots on a 40 plate stage you would do 5 or 6 reloads, with a 6 shot it's 7 or 8 reloads. 8 shot is the way to go.

While it is true that some of my "success" (no one is asking me yet for my autograph by the way) is due to equipment, 8 shot revolvers, dot sights (in OSR), tuned actions, chamfered charge holes, moon clips and speed holsters; practice...and a lot of it...is the main thing. I can and do shoot 6 shot in IDPA and ICORE limited 6 or Classic with speed loaders but when it's time for seriousness out comes the 8 shot.

One last thing, one of the best reloaders using speed loaders is Josh Lentz, there are a number of you tubes of his reloads if you are interested in further study on the subject. Josh uses Safariland comp 3s. There are several companies that make speed loader belt pouches.

Some will say the object here is to get practice with the revolver you carry. I get that, I really do. However, that doesn't change the fact that if you desire to run with the other shooters you have to have tackle that will give yourself a fighting chance. That or convince yourself that there is a certain noble quality in shooting a 6 shot revolver and coming in last. Again not to insult anyone but there it is. It is possible with the right gear and more importantly a lot of practice for a revolver to keep up with the semi-auto shooters. Even at my puny level of marksmenship last week I finished 2nd in a 6 stage steel challenge match in what is called the "main match". This comprises those who shoot all centerfire handguns drawing from a holster. To get 2nd I had to do better than a bunch of open auto and production semi- auto shooters. And I'm basically a piker.
 
I see nothing in your post that would offend someone. Quite good info if you ask me. I am lame and cheap though, I use my old and beloved K frame S&Ws, all 6 shot. I also use a mix of HKS, Safariland, and the old Dade speed loaders. We do not load on the clock often if ever. I I think I am the only one that will with revolver and only if I am feeling cocky. I also use standard velocity 158g 38 special loads. I still score in the 1,2,3 place area, but I think it is more luck and few revolver shooters (compared to semi auto shooters) that let me do that well. We do separate by rev, sa, sa with irons, rev with irons, etc and on and on......

Keep practicing, have fun (don't make it a job), be smooth, and good things will happen....

I hesitate to jump into this discussion for several reasons but mainly because I'm certain to offend someone. OK you guys don't be offended just take this as one persons opinion. Also not sure if you are shooting static steel or falling steel where reloads are probably required.

I started shooting revolver in a (static steel) steel league, my first year was 2015. When I started I was using a S&W 686 with a 4" barrel, 6 shot capacity, reloads using safariland comp 3 speed loaders. My performance in this local league in 2015 was similar to D.B. Cooper, always at the bottom. Although it's difficult to put this into a baseline score because every match was set up differently, there is always 5 targets including a stop plate, 5 strings per stage, 5 stages per match, throw out the worse string in each stage, minimum 125 shots, after the throw-outs 100 shots count. Sort of the same as steel challenge except always 5 stages per match and the stages are wildcats. The league is similar to steel challenge.

So again there usually are about 20 revolver shooters more or less so it's isn't just me against the bottom feeders. First year I averaged a time of roughly 270 seconds. I actually didn't finish last for the year, rather second to last LOL! Second year (2016) I averaged again give or take about 160 seconds, last year 105 seconds and this year I'm running in the low to mid 80s +/-. Also, last year I started shooting Steel Challenge optical sight revolver. First 8 stage match shoot 266 seconds (classified D), I was just this week re-classified to A, I'm running about the high 130s. In Steel Challenge iron sight I'm classified B, I will shoot about 165 at this juncture. My point in all of this is I have been the goat and suffered maximum humiliation but have made (in my opinion) a lot of progress. This is for me been a 3+ year struggle. So, I'm not a Master but I know a few things about this.

There are a couple of truths that have to be brought out and this is where I'm going to insult someone or something. First thing is practice. As others have posted you must dryfire often and use a shot timer with a par feature. If, as another poster mentioned, if you lose 1/2 second on your draw that is a gain of 2 seconds per stage, 10 seconds/match in a 5 stage match. Your draw needs to be about 1.5 seconds or better.

Revolver has the disadvantage of a long heavy double action trigger. It sort of makes up for that in that you can load as light a load as you want. My loads are close to rimfire, all you need to do is get the bullet to exit the muzzle, you are not cycling a slide. Take advantage of that. Of course if you are shooting plate racks or falling steel then you need something with a bit more ommph.

In theory there is nothing wrong with 44 magnum. The real problem is the number of rounds. Six is not enough. In (for example) steel challenge there is no chance of doing well, even semi-well, if you are doing reloads on the clock. There are two options, first is never miss, the second is use a revo that holds 7 or better yet 8 rounds. Even with 8 rounds in the cylinder, the goal is to have 1 shot, 1 hit. For every miss figure an extra second added to the score. So to be clear on this accuracy is vital but having the extra rounds is useful. All of the top steel challenge revolver shooters use 8 round revolvers. There are no exceptions that I'm aware of. So, the discussion about moon clips vs. speed loaders is irrelevant because as mentioned reloads on the clock are death. My first year I was doing many on the clock reloads, So far this year I have done 1 on the clock reload and that is 1 too many but things don't always go as planned.

I have shot with guys that have 6 shot 625s and never miss but I can usually beat them because I have some extra rounds for make up shots. I see no advantage in a 625 over a 44 magnum or .357 686 (if they are cut for moons) because again, while a 625 with moons is faster to reload you simply don't want to reload.

Lets say you have a wall of steel in your league. Suppose there are 30 or 40 falling steel plates. There you have to reload, even the auto-loaders have to. But with 8 shots on a 40 plate stage you would do 5 or 6 reloads, with a 6 shot it's 7 or 8 reloads. 8 shot is the way to go.

While it is true that some of my "success" (no one is asking me yet for my autograph by the way) is due to equipment, 8 shot revolvers, dot sights (in OSR), tuned actions, chamfered charge holes, moon clips and speed holsters; practice...and a lot of it...is the main thing. I can and do shoot 6 shot in IDPA and ICORE limited 6 or Classic with speed loaders but when it's time for seriousness out comes the 8 shot.

One last thing, one of the best reloaders using speed loaders is Josh Lentz, there are a number of you tubes of his reloads if you are interested in further study on the subject. Josh uses Safariland comp 3s. There are several companies that make speed loader belt pouches.

Some will say the object here is to get practice with the revolver you carry. I get that, I really do. However, that doesn't change the fact that if you desire to run with the other shooters you have to have tackle that will give yourself a fighting chance. That or convince yourself that there is a certain noble quality in shooting a 6 shot revolver and coming in last. Again not to insult anyone but there it is. It is possible with the right gear and more importantly a lot of practice for a revolver to keep up with the semi-auto shooters. Even at my puny level of marksmenship last week I finished 2nd in a 6 stage steel challenge match in what is called the "main match". This comprises those who shoot all centerfire handguns drawing from a holster. To get 2nd I had to do better than a bunch of open auto and production semi- auto shooters. And I'm basically a piker.
 
I found that a lot has to do with how you choose to manipulate the ejection rod and how you want to move the gun during the process...there are a lot of subtleties involved...moving faster isn't always the quickest reload

Agreed. Pick one as your default, but practice the others as well, as there may well be times and situations where only one (maybe not your default one, either) is really the only practical option.

The most common ones I've seen are the Safariland ones...There are also singles from various makers

Your belt passes through the Safariland holders. Stable, but harder to remove. IIRC, they come as single, double and triple holders. The body of the speedloader rests on top of the holder, and the rounds essentially index into place. Check your sanctioning body's regulations, then, as they (e.g. IDPA) might require the body of the speedloader to be covered. The others look like ReadyTac holders. They clip over your belt, so you can take them on and off easily. They also cover the body of the speedloader, and grip the speedloader well.

BTW I have HKS speed loaders and without practice I can reload in around 2 sec.
From shot to shot time?

...with both (-0/A) zone hits?

Definitely not!o_O

I feel better :oops:

I'm usually at 3.5sec between shots...with the occasional dip into 3sec, but not reliably

The fastest I've ever seen...on YouTube...was 1.47sec. But that was between hammer snaps (no sight picture before or after) with moonclips...FWIW, he was a lefty shooter

For the record, as 9mmE eludes to, a reload is measured with a par timer, and is the time between the last and first shots on target before and after a reload. Anything else is just a wild guess and usually wildly optimistic ;).

As far as the 1.47sec "reload", I know the vid. He is indeed quite speedy and one of the top revo shooters out there, just barely getting beat by the great Miculek one year at the USPSA Nationals (I haven't been following it, so he may have even won by now). When he posted the vid on the Enos forum for his buds to see, they (correctly) ribbed him a bit for calling it a "reload", rather than a stunt. It wasn't a reload because he didn't take 2 shots at a target; instead, he held the gun over a table with the moon and timer right next to it, and didn't even try to move the gun to "aim" at a target. As 9mmE indicates, he was just trying to eject and insert as quickly as possible, and he set the timer to be as sensitive as possible so it'd pick up his trigger pulls. A very cool stunt that would take a lot of practice, but definitely not a reload, nor should it be taken by others as a way to practice their reloads.

As I mentioned earlier, a good speedloader user (with a lot of practice under their belt) will execute sub-3 second reloads (e.g. 2.7sec) in dry fire, and 3-3.5 second reloads in an actual match. Importantly, those reloads are consistent, with few, if any, that are bobbled, and the shots before and after are good. By way of contrast, the Average Joe would likely be doing well to get under 10-12 seconds with the same setup. I'm not jabbing the Average Joe, but just pointing out that consistent 3-3.5 second speedloader reloads in match situations don't just happen and aren't mainly equipment-based.
 
I carry them in a dump pouch on my right side in front of the gun.

I've never seen or heard of kydex speedloader carriers.

Look around they a bit harder to find (compared to magazine pouches) but they are out there. For my IDPA setup I am using three holders for my Comp III speed-loaders. You can wear as many as your sport needs. IDPA limits you to only three reloads for Revolver division.

X1hqm19l.jpg
Model 10 Heavy Barrel, Safariland 567 Hoster, Safariland Comp III speed-loaders and Master-Tac speed-loader pouches (IDPA legal) I wear the three speed-loader pouches on my weak side. This same setup is also my woods/tractor carry although I usually only carry one reload directly behind the holster so the revolver grip locks the speed-loader in its pouch

For USPSA you can carry as much ammo as you want (you can never have too much ammo unless you're swimming or on fire) so I carry eight reloads plus the one in the gun. The moonclip server ends up across my belly slightly offset to my left.

r7RdpAul.jpg
S&W 627 PC 5-inch, Blade-tech holster, North Mountain moonclip server.

I am a weak hand reloader; the revolver stays in my strong hand for the reload whether I am using moonclips or speed-loaders. I could never make the transition back into my strong hand consistent enough to make a strong hand reload work for me.

This video is a little old I have not been recording matches lately but is a good example of speed loaders vs moonclips. I shot a local club match with my model 10 and then the same stages again with my S&W 627 (8-shot). IIRC this is only my second or third match with my model 10 and speed-loaders; I had been using moonclips for several years before this. Thus you can see some good and some bad speed-loader reloads in this video.

 
MCB, I noticed that you're reloading with your left (i.e. "weak" hand). I guess I could do that with a lot of practice, but I'm a long way from being ambidextrous. I also noticed your muzzle doesn't jump or anything. I've been on the fence for a year about magna-porting; maybe I need to do it. Hate to cut up a gun.

Thomas15, thanks for your post. I think, in the end, your comment about nobly finishing last with a 6 shot revolver is probably right on the mark. The Redhawk 44 is the gun I carry. (Brown bears.) So I need that to remain the main handgun I shoot the most. My club does break it down to autoloaders and revolvers, however, they include single stack magazine autos in the same class as the revolvers, so it's kinda pointless there.

Someone mentioned shooting rimfire as practice, and I thought hard about buying the Ruger rimfire revolver, but they're SO expensive that I just decided to pass on that. Put that money into powder, primers, and projectiles.

This is a great discussion, and you've all helped a lot.
 
As I mentioned earlier, a good speedloader user (with a lot of practice under their belt) will execute sub-3 second reloads (e.g. 2.7sec) in dry fire, and 3-3.5 second reloads in an actual match. Importantly, those reloads are consistent, with few, if any, that are bobbled, and the shots before and after are good. By way of contrast, the Average Joe would likely be doing well to get under 10-12 seconds with the same setup. I'm not jabbing the Average Joe, but just pointing out that consistent 3-3.5 second speedloader reloads in match situations don't just happen and aren't mainly equipment-based.

I have to agree here on the times. If you go the speed loader route then buy a few and make up some dummy rounds and practice your reloads over and over and over. There are instructions somewhere on Brian Enos forum on how to modify Safariland Comp3 speedloaders to make them a bit faster to reload. It involves trimming the outer shell (the comp3s are plastic) and installing a sheet metal screw in the center plunger, all this to allows the speed loaders to release earlier. I think the poster on enos is named "Bubba" and his modifications are called "Bubberizing". I haven't personally done this but have seen others that do.

Another thing, IDPA doesn't allow this but for a local match prolly ok, but I have been experimenting with trimming 38 special brass to the length of 38 short colts. The shorter brass is faster for reloads regardless if you are using speed loaders or moon clips. Of course you will need to do some research on handloads. I could simply use short colt brass but I have a huge investment in moon clips for 38 special and don't want to buy more. The only supplier for moon clips for 6 shot 38s is a company called TK. The reason is complicated but for now just know that TK moon clips are probably the best you can buy but they are also expensive.

I am a weak hand reloader; the revolver stays in my strong hand for the reload whether I am using moonclips or speed-loaders. I could never make the transition back into my strong hand consistent enough to make a strong hand reload work for me.

Same here. I would give this a fair trial. I mentioned Josh Lentz, here is a vid of his reloads using speed loaders in slow motion.



I don't shoot a lot of IDPA personally but some. I have a similar set up as mcb except my revo is a 686 and I use single cavity speed loader pouches that I purchased from CPWSA. Same Safariland holster, which by the way puts a death grip on the revolver. I have the adjustment screws as lose as they get and spray the inside of the holster with silicone before every use and it still is a hard draw. If you are not drawing from a holster then this is all a moot point.

For USPSA, ICORE and Steel Challenge I have a pair of S&W 929s (open and iron). Neither are IDPA legal. The belt is a DAA pro or champion I forget which, the holster is a DAA Race Master and I use DAA magnetic moon clip holders of which I have 8 on my belt. I think the holster mcb is using is made (it think) by Blade Tec (but there are others), way less expensive than the DAA Race Master and faster than the Safariland. The Race Master is faster yet but you still need to practice a lot. The idea of a race holster is that there is little resistance when drawing from the holster and you don't have to pull up to the point where the muzzle clears the top of the holster before swing out to the target.

D.B. you had asked about having the cylinder cut for moon clips and if you could still use speed loaders after cutting. I think the question was answered yes. This is accurate. I have my 686 cut and no problems moons or speed loaders. You will need as mentioned moon clips and brass specific for the cut. There is zero doubt that moons are faster than speed loaders. I have watched Mr. Lentz (who is well known as a fast reloader) do reloads both ways many times and moons are considerably faster.
 
I personally would avoid porting a revolver, it makes it illegal for IDPA, and bumps you to Open division in USPSA and is only legal in Optical Sight Revolver Division in Steel Challenge and it make it even noisier than they already are. It just does not help recoil or muzzle climb enough to justify the cost or the division bumps. The only way I would port a revolver would be one of the super magnums like 460 S&W or 500 S&W but I don't have a lot of interest in revolvers that powerful. I top out at 44 Mag.

In my video there is very little muzzle climb because both revolvers are shooting Minor power factor. The model 10 is 38 Special loaded to about a 130 power factor (158gr RN going 820 fps) and my 627 is using 38 Short Colt (Starline and Remington still make and sell Short Colt) and that is only slightly hotter with a 140 power factor (160gr @ 875fps).
 
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I think the poster on enos is named "Bubba" and his modifications are called "Bubberizing". I haven't personally done this but have seen others that do.

Bubberizing speedloaders is a pretty standard modification among dedicated competitive revolver shooters who use speedloaders. Below are my Bubberized JetLoaders (I prefer them to CompIIIs). Rather than a screw, the center hole is filled with JB Weld.
JetLoader2.jpg

I have been experimenting with trimming 38 special brass to the length of 38 short colts. The shorter brass is faster for reloads regardless if you are using speed loaders or moon clips.
Short case and moonclips play well together, but see my earlier comment on short cases and speedloaders (hint: not recommended).
 
Short case and moonclips play well together, but see my earlier comment on short cases and speedloaders (hint: not recommended).

Yes thanks for making that point. I didn't think anyone would proceed in that direction based just on my comments but you are correct. I have however made what some call "38 mid colts" which are about the length of 38 long colts. They work ok in unmodified speedloaders but I haven't perfected a load and I really don't care for speed loaders (or IDPA revolver) so that has kind of languished at the back of my bench. Have you seen or tried those plastic moon clips? Of course they will not work if you use magnetic holders but those I've seen seem to work, require no tools to load/unload and are inexpensive.

When you Bubberized your speedloaders did you make a fixture to control the exact amount of the side wall you trimmed?
 
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The only way I would port a revolver would be one of the super magnums like 460 S&W or 500 S&W but I don't have a lot of interest in revolvers that powerful. I top out at 44 Mag.

Me too, except .357 is my cap.

I have a friend that really wants a 629 to protect against bear attacks. He doesn't do a whole lot of shooting and to be honest I'm trying to get him interested in shooting with me. I have given up on trying to talk him into a .357 and concentrating on becoming one with the gun, shooting light loads and lot's of volume. Then of course later getting another revo (no one should have just one anyway). I know a lot of posters talk about shooting lots of full house magnum revolver loads but I quite frankly have no interest in that. And from January 1 to today (9 months) I have sent almost 10,000 rounds down range out of my revolvers. I'm sure there are some but I doubt there are many who shoot even half that amount of Magnum loads/year.
 
Have you seen or tried those plastic moon clips? Of course they will not work if you use magnetic holders but those I've seen seem to work, require no tools to load/unload and are inexpensive.

I haven't shot much with moonclips, but I've used metal clips when I did. Yeah, a mooner/demooner is an extra piece of gear, but IMO, the BMT mooner/demooner is definitely worth it.

When you Bubberized your speedloaders did you make a fixture to control the exact amount of the side wall you trimmed?

I just wrapped painter's tape to mark where I wanted to cut, then carefully used a bandsaw to do the cutting (being very careful not to cut into the center plunger), and a knife to get rid of any burrs. After Bubberizing, you definitely want to check that all rounds are releasing easily, as even a tiny burr will result in a case being sluggish to release.
 
I just wrapped painter's tape to mark where I wanted to cut, then carefully used a bandsaw to do the cutting (being very careful not to cut into the center plunger), and a knife to get rid of any burrs. After Bubberizing, you definitely want to check that all rounds are releasing easily, as even a tiny burr will result in a case being sluggish to release.
That is going to be my off-season project...after the IDPA Nationals this weekend and then The Western regional in October
 
A lot of you guys are giving great tips for becoming competitive with a revolver...but a lot of that doesn't apply to the OP's Redhawk 44 Magnum. That's the gun he carries and the one he wants to shoot. Yes he needs to work on his draw and reloads but realistically he's never going to be competitive with that weapon. Too heavy, too hard to manage reloads at the speeds you competitive shooters are going. Heck, the speed loader pouches you are recommending are not available for the Redhawk's cylinder size.

To the OP, get used to coming in at the bottom of the pack, but work on realistic things like NEVER missing. See if you can shoot a match clean, from start to finish. That would be something to be proud of and to build upon. Work on making every action (draw, moving from target to target, reloading, getting back on target) as clean and efficient as you can. Bet your times will go down and you quit coming in last...even if you don't win anything.

Just another opinion from a long time competitive shooter who shot a lot of revolvers along with my 1911s.

Dave
 
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