Just got my new Hogue rubber monogrip for my new S&W 640 - they feel great. Weather permitting I'll be going to the range and see if I can handle this beauty; I'm told this grip should absorb a good amount of kick. I also got a HKS Speedloader, but doesn't work on my J-Frame revolver; I did buy couple of Bianchi Speedstrips, but would rather use the drop (round) type - can any one point to the right source, preferably with a URL link, I'd appreciate it. Thanks. Oldfella
Speedloaders
- Thread starter oldfella
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Jim Watson
Member
1. They sold you the wrong HKS, there is a J loader in that lineup.
2. I prefer Safariland, they make a Comp I for Js. Safarilands charge the cylinder with a straight push, no knob to twist. They DO require a twist to fill the loader and it takes a little knack vs the HKS.
Midway has HKS, Brownell's and Dillon sell Safariland.
www.midwayusa.com
www.brownells.com
www.dillonprecision.com
2. I prefer Safariland, they make a Comp I for Js. Safarilands charge the cylinder with a straight push, no knob to twist. They DO require a twist to fill the loader and it takes a little knack vs the HKS.
Midway has HKS, Brownell's and Dillon sell Safariland.
www.midwayusa.com
www.brownells.com
www.dillonprecision.com
Mannlicher
Member
a couple of observations on speedloaders
I have used Safariland CH7's for years with my J frames. They work with my Taurus 85CH's also.
These just push in, and when the center of the star hits the lil button between the cartridges, it realeases them, and they just drop in. Very quick and positive.
I carry two on my belt in a custom wrap around holder by Sam Andrews. A top break snap has one in your hand in seconds.
I have used Safariland CH7's for years with my J frames. They work with my Taurus 85CH's also.
These just push in, and when the center of the star hits the lil button between the cartridges, it realeases them, and they just drop in. Very quick and positive.
I carry two on my belt in a custom wrap around holder by Sam Andrews. A top break snap has one in your hand in seconds.
coonan357
Member
when I was told about the safarilands my HKS's where doomed to the back of the used holster drawer , I have 2 of them for my J frame, i had to play with them alittle to smooth out the roughness when they where new .
Jim Watson
Member
One of our members had a Maxfire at the last match. He said it was a bust and was going to use Safariland only, even to load the gun with at the start of the string because he did not want to learn any other motions.
Jim March
Member
Just based on the Maxfire website's instruction page, it looks like them things are potentially hell on the crane. 
i bought a pack of the Maxfire speedloaders and i can't say i'd recommend them. I have only tried them a couple times and that will probably be it. it's difficult to line the bullets up with the cyclinders because the loader is made up hard rubber and it doesn't hold the bullets straight enough to load quickly. and the whole idea of pulling it off the bullets and having the gun snap shut isn't really that good either. you have to really give it a good tug to get the gun to snap shut (something that is not recommended in my manual for the GP100). These are the only speedloaders i have tried so i can't compare them to anything else. i guess when i start carrying all the time i'll just have to hope 5 (considering an SP101) or 6 shots of .357 will have to do.
Clemson
Member
Weshoot@ has a good point. Safarilands are great for target work and games. For actual carry in a defensive situation, fumbling a speedloader full of cartridges is a real possibility. The HKS will hold the cartridges securely even if someone throws a speedloader full to you from across a super highway. The Safariland will dump the cartridges if you drop it from waist high onto a putting green. It takes some practicing to use the HKS competently, but it is worth your time.
Jim March
Member
Dadio: don't judge all speedloaders by the Maxfire. Seriously. The HKS types work well, the Safariland are faster but as stated, don't drop 'em 
.
Either are miles ahead of those rubber dohickeys.
.Either are miles ahead of those rubber dohickeys.
For actual speedloaders, I definately prefer the Safariland ones.
However, I've had my M60 converted to accept moonclips from TK Custom (www.moonclips.com), and it's the greatest thing I could have done. No more ammo scattered about the floor due to errant speedloader discharge, no more trying to conceal bulky speedloaders. Just 5 rounds of .357 goodness ready to drop in and go.
Oh yeah, no more brass hanging up under the star, either.
However, I've had my M60 converted to accept moonclips from TK Custom (www.moonclips.com), and it's the greatest thing I could have done. No more ammo scattered about the floor due to errant speedloader discharge, no more trying to conceal bulky speedloaders. Just 5 rounds of .357 goodness ready to drop in and go.
Oh yeah, no more brass hanging up under the star, either.
Jim March
Member
Speedloader grip clearance issues happen! All the time, on any wheelgun.
Solution: shave the left grip area where it's interfering. My favorite trick there is to use a Dremel tool and "sanding barrel", you can polish down either rubber or wood that way.
Solution: shave the left grip area where it's interfering. My favorite trick there is to use a Dremel tool and "sanding barrel", you can polish down either rubber or wood that way.
Jim March
Member
Forgot to mention: if using a Dremel, take the grips off, put masking tape on the frame under and around the area you're going be working on the grip, and reinstall the grip. If you slip with the tool you won't scratch the gun.
Thin layer of tape only, or you won't get the grip on easily.
Thin layer of tape only, or you won't get the grip on easily.
Thanks, Jim - Right now I'm trying to come up with enough money for the Dremel thing... I just found out they are not cheap; since I'm not into competition shooting, or anything close to it, I'll just do it by hand... one-by-one, for the time being.
BTW - I did order the one by safariland, just to try it out... I'll let you all know if it works for me. Thanks loads, Oldfella
BTW - I did order the one by safariland, just to try it out... I'll let you all know if it works for me. Thanks loads, Oldfella
Jim March
Member
Got an electric drill? If the grips are rubber, a Dremel-part "sanding drum" on it's own will run $3 or so, and will run fast enough at drill speeds to do rubber just fine .
Cheapo Dremel or clone kits (without the flex-lead attachment) run about $35 or so. The clones are generally fine, as long as the shaft drive chucks are the same as a Dremel. I actually have a Ryobi clone, works great.
Only downside with a clone: some of the weirder Dremel attachments, like the thing that turns it into a router, won't work on a clone. But all the bits will.
.Cheapo Dremel or clone kits (without the flex-lead attachment) run about $35 or so. The clones are generally fine, as long as the shaft drive chucks are the same as a Dremel. I actually have a Ryobi clone, works great.
Only downside with a clone: some of the weirder Dremel attachments, like the thing that turns it into a router, won't work on a clone. But all the bits will.
Jim, I had completely forgotten, I got an "Advantage" High-Speed Rotary Saw by Dremel for Christmas... still in the box. I think it accepts the flexible thingie and other Dremel tools - I'll check with Lowe's, where it was bought. Thanks for reminding me. Oldfella
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