I do not use a powder cop die either. The spring return on mine is very dependable. I still see every charge I seat a bullet over though. I still think that is the best insurance available.
I thought I would add a few pictures showing the steps I took to modify my BR30 measure to work with a Hornady case activated powder throw.
I followed the instructions posted by 1858 and threaded the body of the measure. I used a drill press (unplugged) to hold the tap. I used a wrench on the pully to turn the tap once it got too hard to turn by hand.
I do not have access to a welder so I could not cut and weld the linkage like 1858 did. But I found another way. There is enough extra width on the linkage to cut it at an angle. No welding and plenty strong. Besides that, it will still work on the Hornady powder measure if needed.
The end of the drop tube was just a little too loose in the powder body and left a very small gap between the edge of the drop tube opening and the walls of the powder measure. I eliminated the gap by belling the mouth of the drop tube just a hair. This made it a snug fit.
Hope this helps the next guy who wants to do this.
Ron
The end of the drop tube was just a little too loose in the powder body and left a very small gap between the edge of the drop tube opening and the walls of the powder measure. I eliminated the gap by belling the mouth of the drop tube just a hair. This made it a snug fit.
Did you cut threads all the way through the body of the powder measure such that the tap exited where the drum resides? On my BR-30 and 10X, there is a slight clearance between the drop tube and the body as there should be, and the tube is not loose. The drop tube threads in and the shoulder makes hard contact with the body of the measure so the tube is as tight as you want it. As you can see from the photos below looking through the powder measure body, there's no way for powder to work its way down between the drop tube and body because the clearance is in the thousandths.
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