Stake a screw?

[GuidoTorpedo]

Can someone explain this to me? From what I've gathered, to stake a screw, you score (or remove?) some material from where the screw head meets the surface (in my case the frame) so that it locks down properly and prevents it from backing out.

Is that correct? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

If this is correct, whats the best method for staking?

As a reference, I'm removing the magazine catch from my CZ97b and it was recommended to me that I restake the screw to the frame when replacing it. Could Lock-Tite also work?

 

[Firehand]

To stake a screw means to take a prick or centerpunch and strike it so it drives some material from the frame into the end of the screw, so it physically locks it in place.

For a lot of things, a good threadlocker of the proper grade can take care of the matter.

 

[Bwana John]

I would rather use red Loc-tite if I ever intend to take it apart again.

I would rather not have to restake somthing that has to be taken apart very often.

 

[Jim K]

Staking a screw usually involves driving a bit of metal from the surrounding area into the screw slot to keep it from turning. LocTite and other glues will work, but often make the screw harder to remove than staking. The only places I normally recommend staking are in the 1911 type pistol - the "tunnel" that holds the plungers and springs for the slide stop and safety, and the grip screw bushings. The former does not use screws, and both have been known to come loose when held with LocTite.

Other areas often staked are dovetail type sights to keep them from moving under recoil.

Jim

 

[Firehand]

The rear sights on M1 Carbines were generally staked pretty heavily; which is why the corners of the dovetail in the receiver often have some chips missing from when the sight was taken off.

 

[JNewell]

The screws retaining the gas key on the AR-15 bolt carrier should be staked if the rifle is expected to perform at full reliability.