standard velocity in ruger 22/45?

Status
Not open for further replies.
I would take a Ruger MK over a Texas made High Standard regardless of cost. In my experience the Rugers are more reliable and require less tinkering.

I wouldn't attempt a trigger and sear polish without a jig. It's incredibly easy to over do it and be stuck with a pistol that that will fire when you release the safety.
 
well, i don't know how the new high standard really works. but i do know the texas high standard folks know what people want. they come from the factory with a trigger adjusted to 2.25 lbs.
to get that in a ruger i gotta spend an extra hundred n learn new skills to replace all the crappy ruger parts.
do you have any idea how scarey it's gonna be to install a new sear for someone with no gunsmith skills?
i haven't even got the new sear yet n i'm worried about never getting the gun back together.
it's not fair i have to do that.
volquartsen can mass produce decent sears, but ruger can't?
why?
 
I currently have 7 High Standards; 2 Hamden, 1 East Hartford, and 4 Texas. They all shoot well BUT the most accurate are the four TX guns. This is first hand experience from someone who currently owns and shoots them. I don't guess, I test. The High Standards are magazine sensitive but that is all of them regardless where they were made. Good luck with your search.

HighStandard9-13-2_zpsb3004350.jpg Chart.jpg
 
I own a Victor, It's a great gun but requires tinkering, it also cost about x2 as much as a Ruger 22/45.

If op is concerned about cost and complication of a $30 VQ trigger sear then I'll speculate punching roll pins to change the mainspring or tuning a bunch of $40 mags would be out.

No guessing here, I've been down that road.
 
so, there is no gun i can buy that just works great out of the box that never needs anything but cleaning?
 
so, there is no gun i can buy that just works great out of the box that never needs anything but cleaning?

You a ready bought it. A Ruger MK works great out of the box and rarely needs anything but cleaning...A better trigger is your want. It isn't a necessity. Honestly, you are making far bigger of a deal out of this than it is. The parts for a better trigger are cheap. The Internet is full of resources to help you swap them in....Heck, I could have installed them in the time I have messed around on this thread.:D
 
oh pooh. don't get testy, colt. taking apart n putting all those little things back together isn't easy for everyone.
i find it frightening, internet or no.
for me, a new sear isn't just a ''want''. it seems essential for the uses i intend.
 
Not getting testy. Just wish you would step up and give it a try . The guns really are simple. If I were near you I would do it for you.
 
i am giving it a try. i have field stripped this thing 3 times n i eliminated the mag disconnect n installed a new hammer bushing. i've removed the rear sight n installed a fast fire. soon, i'll replace the sear.

meanwhile, i'm using this thread to meet new people n find out what they have to say.
i'm having fun here n i'm sorry you aren't.
i think my basic complaint is justified. if volquartsen can make good parts, why can't ruger?
 
...for me, a new sear isn't just a ''want''. it seems essential for the uses i intend.

I have done a lot of Rugers. Using a Volquartsen sear will make the trigger "better" but not what I would call good. The new sear has a shallower notch which reduces creep but to cut the factory sear and stone the mating surfaces smooth will give a good trigger feel. Usually that will get me down into the 3 lb range and then I leave the sear alone and just cut a coil at a time from the trigger spring until I get the weight I am looking for. If it later becomes too light, just buy a new trigger spring for a couple of bucks which is cheap and easy to replace.
 
sal, cutting n stoning is above my skill level.
is cutting a trigger spring something i can do?
the nearest smith is 90 miles away.
 
sal, cutting n stoning is above my skill level. is cutting a trigger spring something i can do?

You can but it is not the best approach IMHO. Trying to keep this short you are looking at reducing three things in this order: friction in the trigger mechanism, friction between the sear mating surfaces, and then spring pressure. With the sear out, make sure the trigger is pivoting smooth. I generally lightly polish the shaft and put some quality grease on it. Next look at the sear where it mates. If you look closely, you will see machining marks on it. It greatly reduces the effort on the trigger if you use a stone (cuts very lightly) to take a very small amount of metal off while keeping the angles the same (don't round it off). Even taking as little as 0.0001" off will get a lot of the machining marks out and make the trigger a lot better. Finally address the spring a coil at a time.

The problem with going to the spring first is you can end up with something inconsistent or possibly compromising safety. The spring has to have enough pressure to fully reset the sear each shot. If the sear is left rough, it takes more pressure to reset it than one where the surfaces are polished smooth and they slide across easier. A weak spring will sometimes not fully reset a still rough sear and you will get one shot at say 3.5 lbs and the next one may be 2 lbs, etc. Hope that makes sense.
 
Hold on here, lets discuss the Trigger Plunger Spring a moment. Cutting this spring serves little purpose to reducing the overall trigger pull weight. It's purpose is to lift the disconnector lever and reset the sear when the bolt is fully closed. This spring only comprises 4-6 oz. of the total trigger pull measured weight. The mainspring and the positive engagement angle of the sear and hammer hooks account for most of the rest of total trigger pull. Reducing this spring tension can create problems with the functioning of the pistol and "failure to reset" situations.

Let me describe the term "Positive Engagement Angle," it means when the trigger is pulled the hammer actually moves rearward slightly before the sear releases it forward to strike the firing pin. This engagement method is used to prevent any slipping of the hammer off of the sear face by anything other than the operator intentionally pulling the trigger. Changing the sear angles by manually stoning either the hammer hook, or the sear face, without the proper calibrated jigs and training can create a potentially dangerous situation where the trigger may be released unintentionally. The VQ target sear and hammer have very slightly different engagement angles, almost imperceptible to the eye, this is why these are best for folks without the proper equipment to install as a "drop-in" aftermarket replacement. One doesn't have to install both components to achieve a better trigger pull. The sear alone will vastly improve the Ruger .22 Autopistol's operation while utilizing the factory hammer. Trigger pulls in the range of 2-2.75 lbs are typically enjoyed by folks who've used these products in their Ruger firearms.

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye
 
thanks so much. i love this thread. i'm getting university level instruction.

i'll just buy the sear. i'm not competent for more,.
 
susieqz

Just a thought from one that has done more than a few Ruger's.

I would not stone dears, cut springs, or alter the angles of anything. Ruger parts from various after market suppliers are cheap and plentiful.

You would be well advised to save the stock parts in a bag in case you ever need to replace them.
 
well, 340, i guess i'll save them, but i'm not sure why if they are inferior parts.

i'll go with buying parts, thanks.
i found the sear for $27 n free shipping. i can't really afford the whole kit, but bullseye told me the sear makes most difference.

i hope it works. people say there's some improvement in trigger pull when you install a new hammer bushing, but i notice nothing. i wonder if i should have oiled the bushing?
i'm not complaining. having mags drop out properly made it worth doing anyway.
 
Paco Kelly's Accurizer

If you want to wing out all the accuracy you can from any .22LR, check out Paco Kelly'saccurizer tap tools. He can help you accurize any .22lr ammo, especially high velocity loads. The tools can also help you crank out ammo that's not only more accurate, but more lethal.

"The first reason for the development of the tool was to improve accuracy in a .22 rimfire firearm," Kelly explained. "Twenty-two chamber dimensions vary greatly among the vast array of pistols, revolvers, and rifles available. Ammunition manufacturers must make their products fit in all of the various chamber sizes, resulting in ammo that has undersize bullets for the majority of the guns in which they will be fired. This is fine and dandy for casual plinking, but sorely lacking to achieve optimum accuracy." This is a persistent problem for owners of single-action revolvers that take both .22lr and.22wmr cylinders. Since the latter is a little larger diameter than the former, slightly undersized bullets have to work well in barrels that are slightly oversized. So Paco's tool makes a lot of sense. Check it out.

Review: http://www.gunblast.com/Paco.htm

More Info: http://pacotools.com/tool_discriptions

.
 
i sure will. i'll either come here weeping n gnashing my teeth, pleading for help getting it together. i'll i'll be walking tall, demanding everyone call me smith.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top