Star BM failure to extract

[Glockorama]

Just got a Star BM from Aim surplus. After cleaning and lubing, I took it to the range. The first 3 or 4 mags went smooth, then I had stovepipes and failures to extract on EVERY shot! :banghead:
Anyone else have similar experiences with these pistols? I have a new extractor (and firing pin) that I got as spares, so I will put on the new one and see if that helps. Any other suggestions? Is there any way to stretch the extractor spring or replace it?
Any help would be most appreciated.

 

[BigG]

I hate to mention this but the STAR has a reputation for being overpriced no matter what you pay for it. This goes back at least 50 years.

 

[TooTech]

Wow BigG, that was helpful.

Glockorama: I'd take a look to see if there might be some dirt in the slot the extractor rides in that might be preventing it from getting a good grip on the case rim. Check the recess in the breech of the barrel where the extractor fits when the slide is closed for dirt as well. Heck, pull the whole barrel out and soak it in your favorite solvent overnight and then scrub the whole thing inside and out.

What type of ammo by the way?

 

[Glockorama]

I was using S&B and winchester white box ammo.

 

[BigG]

Sorry to besmirch the honor of this world class company, Too Tech. The STAR had pride of place before the Lorcin, Bryco, Jennings, and High Point lines superseded it as budget autoloaders.

 

[Glockorama]

Actually, I may have found the problem. Upon field stripping it, I found that the barrel link has broken in two, it's just a U-shape now and the other half fell onto the floor. Guess I gotta try to find a new link as well.

 

[Old Fuff]

Keep the pieces of the link and super-glue them back together.

Is this a "fix?" No way, but it will provide a pattern in case a new link has to be hand-made.

It's a long shot, but see if a Colt Government Model link happens to be the same size. The hole spacing has to be exactly the same.

 

[mtnbkr]

The only problem I have with my Star BM is a failure to extract once every 100rnds or so. I have a replacement extractor on the way and I'm going to try and find a new extractor spring as well.

Not bad for $160 after shipping and FFL transfer fee.

Chris

 

[jacketch]

My Star BM has gone 500 rounds since I got it without missing a beat. It is accurate and has a sweet trigger. The ergonomics are wonderful and it can be carried C&L. It is definately not in the Lorcin/Bryco/Jennings class of handgun.

A Star B in 9x21 or an MegaStar in 10mm is hardly a low class handgun.

BigG, I was wondering what your experience with Star pistols is or did this info come to you from someone else.

 

[Tamara]

Personally, I think Stars were by far the best of the three large Spanish gunmakers. Their Firestar line was ahead of its time, and the Model 30 was a decent service-type auto. Yeah, some of their older imports were a little sloppier, so maybe BigG is having one a them there '60s flashbacks. Make sure he don't swallow his tongue.

 

[1911Tuner]

Broken Link

Falling link designs break links for a reason, usually. If all is well
within the pistol, the link will see very little stress. A link
made of unhardened cold-rolled steel with do well for a long time
unless there's a problem. If all is NOT well, the link's breaking could be a sign of other problems. If the impact surface in the frame is set too far rearward, the link can break. If the lower lug is too far forward, likewise.

When you put the link together as Old Fluff said, look to see if one
of the holes is egg-shaped. That's indication of one of the above.

If the link is too long, and bears the load of veritcal lockup, it
can break or be damaged.. If this is the case, it can delay barrel linkdown to the point of the barrel not dropping fast enough to get out of the way
of the slide. Check the locking lugs for damage at the front and top.
This damage can be the front corners of the lugs being polished,
rounded off, peened, or sheared, depending on how slow the
linkdown is. Look also for a slight ridge on top of the lugs that
you can feel with your thumbnail. This can occur alone or in
conjunction with other damage at the front of the lug. With
two lugs, the damage will be more obvious on the forward lug.

Hope it works out.

Tuner

 

[Glockorama]

I agree with Tamara; I have had two firestars, in 9mm and .40, and they were both very well made and sweet shooters. I think any handgun that is approaching 30+years and has been in service can be expected to need some part replacements.

It's a long shot, but see if a Colt Government Model link happens to be the same size. The hole spacing has to be exactly the same.

Anybody know if the links (or any other links) will work in the BM. Anyone with a BM and some other "link barreled" guns do any comparison?

 

[1911Tuner]

Colt Links

Don't know the answer to that one Glockorama. PM Jim Keenan
and ask him. If anybody knows, he would.

One other thing. The broken link was causing the stovepipes.
The barrel can't unlock without it. Barrel doesn't unlock, slide
lugs hit the barrel lugs...Slide slows down so much that it can't
smack the case against the ejector hard enough to kick it clear
of the port.

The broken link will also cause the damage to the lugs noted
in my last post, for the same reasons. The barrel is caught between
the impact surface in the frame and the slide. The lugs bear the brunt
until the barrel is forced down. The lugs are probably damaged if
the gun has been fired in this condition very much...20 rounds or
so will do it. If you see damage to the lugs, look inside the slide,
too. The backs of the lugs may also show damage. If not, the
barrel may be salvageable. If the slide is also damaged, it's
dead in the water. The gun is at the point of being salvageable
enough to function, but it shouldn't be fired except in an emergency.

Good luck with this one.

Tuner

 

[4v50 Gary]

Links are easy to make. All you need is good steel (4140). Drill out the holes according to the existing links and then file the exterior down to fit. May want to heat treat it afterwards (use casenite to case harden).

 

[SirVette]

Anyone else have similar experiences with these pistols?

Shot a friend's Star BM- no problems.
The military in Spain has selected the Star when there were 3 Spanish gunmakers (Star, Astra & Llama) besides others to choose from.

Have looked into Stars & may buy one.

 

[1911Tuner]

Making a Link

Links are easy to make. All you need is good steel (4140). Drill out the holes according to the existing links and then file the exterior down to fit. May want to heat treat it afterwards (use casenite to case harden).
-----------------------------------------------
Very true, and if the link is the right length...and the barrel lug is
in-spec and doesn't allow the barel to ride the link, it doesn't really
need to be hardened. The only catch to making a link just like the
old one is that if the old one is too long or short, the copy will be too.
Hardening it will make it last longer, though. The critical part is
the pin. It needs to be hard and tough.

If the pistol has any of the issues noted above, the new one will
eventually break too. Properly fitted with everything in-spec, the
link bears up to almost no stress. Its job is to insure that the
barrel is unlocked from the slide at the right time, and guide the
barrel into and out of battery without excessive side play. Beyond
that, it's mainly just along for the ride.

Simple part, simple function...as long as all is in-spec. If not,
it can get complicated quickly.

Cheers all!

Tuner

 

[Matthew_Q]

Well, I'm about to buy a couple Star BMs soon. I'm gonna nip the problem in the bud by getting two. I am actually going to the store that has them, so I'll be able to hand-pick a couple.

I've already learned how to break them down, and as long as the guy at the store isn't a putz, I'll do so. I'll definitely check the barrel link and locking lugs. If anything looks awry, I'll just pass and look at another.

If anybody finds a source for such parts, let us know! (So far I have part numbers on the firing pin and extractor from Numrich, and I found that Wolff makes recoil springs for the BM. )

 

[jacketch]

Numrich also has grips.

 

[1911Tuner]

Lugs

Matthew, when you look at the link, swing it to the in-battery position.
The hole should align with the rear radius in the bottom lug and be
dead flush, or slightly below flush with the flat. .003 below is ideal.

Then, swing it toward the unlocked position. The hole's radius
should allow the slidestop pin to just touch the rounded corner at
the front of the lug. If it doesn't, the barrel will ride the link. This
sin't as critical as the alignment in the in-battery position, and
won't hurt anything fopr a long time, but it would be a bonus if
the barrel doesn't ride the link at all.

That forward radius at the front is as far as the link moves. Many
people assume that it lays flat on the underside of the barrel, but it doesn't. I'm not real familiar with the Star pistols, but since they
are similar to the 1911 falling link design, this is pretty close.

If the link does bear the load of vertical lock, the hole can be relieved a little
in the top to get the radius below flush as long as you don't have to take
over about .005 out of the radius. More than that, and it's time to go with a shorter link, and possibly reshaping the front of the lug a little.

Good luck!

Tuner

 

[Matthew_Q]

Hey Tuner,

Thanks for the advice! I'm definitely going to try to remember how to check that... from the diagrams, I think the BM link works just about the same as a 1911, so it should be easy to inspect. I have already learned how to break one down, so as long as the store guy isn't a jerk, I'll have him grab a few BMs from stock, and I'll take a couple down. Hopefully, since they're surplus, the link should tell if something is out of tune.