Steel cased 5.56

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Steel CASED and steel JACKETED ammo are two different things.

There are tests out on the internet to discover the expected affects of both and to make a dangerous generalization you got to shoot a lot more for the cheaper price. Nobody expects higher accuracy, chamber and barrel life were incrementally shorter, but it wasn't as if either would ruin an heirloom rifle. We're talking ten's of thousands of rounds - which means in the AR the extractor, bolt, and port in the barrel will all suffer regardless. Tens of thousands of rounds means replacing the bolt parts at 25,000, long before the port erodes. And port erosion is a function of heavy shooting schedules where mag after mag is fired, not leisurely target shooting at paper a long distance away.

For the most part most shooters won't even begin to approach the limit of the AR bolt and extractor. For an interesting view of high volume gun use, look up the Henderson Defense threads on rental gun use at the Vegas range. Those guns can put down 200,000 rounds a year - which is about what it would take to get the quick answer about steel cased or bimetal projectile wear in weapons. Those guns are literally shot to pieces, all on brass cased ammo.

While we used to have issues with foreign import ammo with lacquered cases causing a build up of residue they have long ago switched over to a polymer coating and that isn't an issue any more either. So for the most part, shoot all the steel cased or bimetal you like - it would get pretty expensive to begin to measure wear and most of us aren't even equipped or knowledgeable enough to measure it.

I've been shooting steel cased in my new builds and guns - I'm breaking in a new Kahr CW380 precisely because there are some who say it can't be done. I only have a problem with it failing to lock back on the last round, which is indicative of the low power that Monarch loads them - not a steel case. Hornady American Gunner has no problem with that.

Steel cased won't cause your weapon to inordinately wear out decades before it's time. Just don't expect much from it, you get what you pay for.
 
why shoot something that you know beforehand is eventually going to stop your rifle from functioning?

I'll let you know when it happens but I have bought thousands and thousands of rounds of steel case. I've never had a stoppage in 4 different ARs.

As to the barrel life. Assuming there is in fact increased wear, the cost savings in the ammo more than make up for any reduction in barrel life.

As to terminal ballistics. It doesn't need to be one's go to ammo for that. Certainly it isn't what I would choose for precision work, but neither is an 11.5 barrel with a 4 MOA dot aimpoint.

Dirty, lower velocity, poorer accuracy, less effective non-fragmenting bullet. What part of that do you not get?

For lost of uses none of that actually matters. For some it certainly does. If it does for yours then use what you need. I wouldn't act like someone else is up in the night if they choose to though. I shoot cases of steel cased ammo. I also load up premium 75 grain match ammo. Different horses for different courses.
 
Everyone who doesn't have issues with steel in their AR said:

I wish I had no issues with steel. My RRA middy can't digest it at all. (Have only tried Wolf polymer coated, NOT lacquer)

I can rapid fire a 30rd mag and be ok. But as soon as I mag change, typically within the first round or two it will FTE with the extractor ripping the case rim. It takes a hammer and rod to pound out the stuck case.

Or, if I'm slow firing, it would stick a case within 6-10 rounds.

After doing this half a dozen times I gave up on steel case ammo in it. Unfortunate cause I'm sitting on a few rounds of it :( Maybe the new carbine or pistol will fair better with it.
 
D94R, you could try a new extractor, but if you have a tight chamber then it may not be an extractor issue.

My RRA 16" middy works fine with Wolf/Tula (barring that one FTE), but it is a chrome lined NATO chamber, not SAAMI.
 
US ammo companies do Not use steel, as far as I know.
But there's no chance that warnings about Foreign steel-cased ammo originates with companies which manufacture or sell US-made, brass-cased ammo? Imagine the motivation of Remington, Winchester etc to be a source of warnings echoing around the Internet.

By the way, quite often the Academy store near us sells lacquer-coated, steel-cased Monarch .223.

How many people with issues using steel cases have excluded the possibility of a very dirty chamber?
Sometimes using steel in a very dirty rifle chamber, then switching to brass-cased ammo results in Expansion of the brass into the gunk, making extraction more difficult.
 
...why shoot something that you know beforehand is eventually going to stop your rifle from functioning?
Actually, that goes for all cheap ammo.... brass or steel.

The quality of the cartridge case is what causes stuck cases, and most blow-ups.

And, it isn't lacquer, or dirt build up, although that doesn't help, the heat treat of the steel has more to do with it. Steel cases, unlike brass ones have a more involved heat treating process. Do it wrong and the case is a little to soft, no spring in the metal. When you shoot it, it expands and does not spring back, stuck case.
 
benEzra. I don't believe its an extractor issue with this bolt as it rips off a chunk of the case rim right where it tries to pull it.

None of my AR's are chrome lined, so maybe that is (part of) my issue.
 
D94R, if the extractor is beveled from wear so that it slips toward the edge of the rim, or if it isn't seating deeply enough behind the rim due to a weakish extractor spring, it could possibly cause that. Or, it could be just a tight unlined chamber making it more difficult to extract; I know RRA likes to use .223 Wylde chambers and unchromed barrels because they tend to shoot more accurately with good ammo. I don't know how they are set up now, but when I purchased mine a decade or so ago, I had to special order the 5.56mm chamber and chrome lining, and I knew I was trading away some potential accuracy in doing so.
 
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I have had one stuck case shooting polymer coated Wolf 55gr steel case in a CMMG 1/7 barrel. The barrel was very hot by the time the case stuck, but I've never encountered a similar issue with quality NATO spec brass cased ammunition.

In fairness that particular barrel was of decidedly sub standard quality, and I can not rule out the chamber just not being very well finished. The rest of the barrel was half heartedly produced garbage, so it is very possible.

My main objection to imported steel cased ammo is that the quality and consistency is atrocious. Inaccurate and filthy, I rarely shoot it anymore.
 
I have shot a few thousand rounds of steel cased 223 and x39. Never had a stuck case, no broken or excessively worn parts, and my wallet is a little heavier.
 
Steel cases aren't going to hurt an AR that gets regular use. If the empty cases start sticking get a new extractor for $6. I have a Del-ton that I shoot wolf out of all the time, no issues. If I had a 1,000 AR it might b different... But if u can afford one u can afford brass ammo prob.
 
Steel cased commie junk gooped up my best AR's with the lacquer coating, metal chunks, and the burger grease they mix into the powder.

No big deal for plinking. Just clean your rifle well, and you're good to go.
 
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