Steyr M95 Question

[LordValgor]

Hey guys,
I recently received a non import Steyr M95 (8x56R) as a gift and I just went out and shot it this last weekend for the first time.

Everything about the rifle performed beautifully, except for when trying to open the bolt after firing (trying to extract the cartridge). At which time, the bolt would HEAVILY stick, and it was VERY hard to extract the cartridge.

My question is, what is causing this, and is there anything I can do to "fix" or at least improve it?

Anyways hope you guys can help,
Thanks

 

[Slamfire]

Might be due to very old ammunition. I have no doubt you are using pre WWII ammunition. I have been told by an Insensitive Munitions expert that the “rule of thumb” for the safe lifetime of ammunition is 20 years for double base and 45 years for single base. Clock time is a crude metric and the military does chemical analysis on some propellant lots to determine the amount of stabilizer left. Heat will dramatically reduce the lifetime of gunpowder and raise pressures

Combustion pressures will rise after high temperature storage.

INVESTIGATION OF THE BALLISTIC AND CHEMICAL STABILITY OF 7.62MM AMMUNITION LOADED WITH BALL AND IMR PROPELLANT
Frankfort Arsenal 1962

3. Effects of Accelerated Storage Propellant and Primer Performance

To determine the effect of accelerated isothermal storage upon propellant and primer performance, sixty cartridges from each of lots E (WC 846) and G (R 1475) were removed from 150F storage after 26 and 42 weeks, respectively. The bullets were then removed from half the cartridges of each lot and from an equal number of each lot previously stored at 70F. The propellants were then interchanged, the bullets re-inserted, and the cases recrimped. Thus, four variations of stored components were obtained with each lot.

Chamber pressures yielded by ammunition incorporating these four variations were as follows. These values represent averages of 20 firings.



I recommend pulling some of the bullets to see if you have corrosion on the base of the bullets or inside the cartridge.




I would suggest you pull some bullets, dump the powder and replace with new gunpowder. See how the rifle functions with new gunpowder.

 

[barnbwt]

You may also have a rough chamber, or gunk up inside the bolt body resisting rotation. These guns have poorer leverage for initial extraction, so you much ensure the chamber is clean. FYI, the action is nowhere near as smooth as a K31, you do have to pull and push a bit more to cycle them. The main reason not to shoot surplus is it's going for 2$ a round now due to swastika headstamp. Just buy some PRVI and reload

TCB

 

[LordValgor]

Thanks for the replies guys, though I must say that No, I am in fact not using the pre WWII ammo (I have some, but I'd rather not use it for various reasons).

I found a retailer near me that sells modern brand name (can't remember which brand it is) 8x56, and as it is $30 a box, therefore it is much more the ideal ammunition
(plus, I hear the old ammo kicks worse than anything, the new ammo probably just kicks above a .308 in my experience)

@barnbwt
Would I need to completely remove the bolt-assembly and just inspect/clean it? or do you think a open bolt cleaning would do the job?

As for this action being less smooth then the K31, I heard that while reading through some of the threads on here and for the most part that is what they were saying but a few people referenced it having the same problem as the Steyr M95. None of the threads had any explanations though, except one did say something about having to keep it clean, but by how truly bad mine is sticking I am afraid that isn't the only reason...

PS- I don't mind having to put a bit of muscle into extraction and re-inserting a round, but I couldn't even get the thing open after firing (had to get a big burly guy to come over and give it several serious yanks).

 

[barnbwt]

Look up how to take the bolt apart on youtube, it's quite quick and easy. I think the stud that snaps the bolt into the open and closed position (so it doesn't spin when removed from the gjn) might be engaging its slots too aggresively (you'd need to round the stud slightly to lessen its grip). Most guns have the opposite problem, where the bolt head spins down when removed from the receiver. Use a rag to pull/twist the bolt head, it's kinda sharp.

TCB

 

[finnfan]

Strip the bolt down. Degrease it completely and lube it well. Use grease in the slots where the bolt head rides in the bolt body. I would scrub the chamber really well too.

 

[LordValgor]

I think I'll give her a tear down this weekend and clean it really well, but I'll wait on grinding anything as I have little experience in that department, and I still have fears of messing too much with the mechanics of guns

@finnfan
What "grease" do you recommend? I only have some gun oils laying around, never used grease before..

I'll try and update when I can, but it seems to only happen with firing so I may not be able to test it for awhile :/

 

[barnbwt]

but I'll wait on grinding anything

A very wise decision . I only adjusted mine after I determined exactly what was causing the bolt to uncock and why. Even then, I still screwed up on the first attempt, and darn near couldn't get the bolt to spin again (locked too well in place ). Most likely it's gunk in the chamber. If yours is in 8x56R, it's been rechambered already, and may have a burr or something rough in there, too. Just as likely it's only cosmolene, though. Have fun...

TCB

 

[Edarnold]

All of the initial extraction in the M95 is produced by the front face of the locking lugs working against the cam surfaces in the receiver. The grooves in the bolt body provide the rotation, so you have two places where friction is your enemy. Lubriplate grease served the US military well in the Garand and the M14, if you find some at a gun show. There are moly-based greases are used in automobile lubrication, might try an auto supply store.

Also, are you keeping the rifle against your shoulder while operating the bolt? The difference in leverage between the way the gun was designed and trying to run the bolt from your hip makes the difference between slick running and struggling. Since this is the opposite of a turn-bolt action this detail is not self evident. I had to learn it from the straight-pull rifles I've owned over the years, along with the reflex of lifting my face out of the way when running the bolt from the shoulder. Works fine with any manual action, but it gets me some funny looks when I'm shooting an autoloader...

IMHO