Sticky Lever Action

[Luke G]

Hi guys!

I just purchased a Marlin 1894C 357 and boy is it a sweet rifle! I have been looking for one for a while now and one poped up for a reasonable price and I jumped on it.

However, the action seemed a bit stiff at the store but my 336 was the same way and it is now silky smooth, so I was not worried. I figured a good cleaning/lubing and a night in front of the tv working the action would fix the problem. After doing this, the lever travel is very smooth in the middle and end of the stroke, but it is still very difficult to cycle the action during the initial part of the stroke, when the bolt begins moving away from the barrel.

I have not had a chance to shoot the rifle yet, but does anyone have anysuggestions on why this is hapening and/or how to fix it?

Thanks,
Luke

 

[351 WINCHESTER]

Guns are like cars. No two are the same. Keep it oiled and work the action. Sooner of later it will smooth up.

 

[Ridgerunner665]

http://www.marlinowners.com/forums/index.php/board,119.0.html


Ask the experts.... (aka leverdude, or swany)

 

[Ratdog68]

Instead of just oil... would a couple of dabs of metal polish added to it help in smoothing things out a little bit? (Cycling the action while watching some tube)

 

[Black Dime]

Its the hammer spring.

The Marlin, Win. M1873, Win. M1897 shotgun and others. The most significant item to overcome when "slicking" them up is to reduce cocking resistance. Most of use Federal primers to ensure consistent ignition because we take the hammer resistance to almost nothing.
Wolf makes spring kits for these guns to achieve smooth and little resistance in cycling.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=841511
Brownell's also carries the springs for Marlin.
And http://www.magicspringsbyseven.net/
Gunsmiths like Cody Conagher (WV) works magic on 1873s and Marlins. If you picked up my 1873 and cycled the action, the first thought would be that the linkage is not hooked up. Smooth and almost no resistance.
http://www.codyscowboyshop.com/
Tell him Red Cent sent you.

 

[Acera]

I remember a guy in Beaumont or Port Author Texas that was really good at working on these actions. Maybe someone else will have is name.

 

[Luke G]

Thanks for the responses!

I will try the new springs to see if that helps with the trigger, but the lever is still quite stiff even when the hammer is cocked.

Could the portion of the lever than moves the bolt be slighly longer than usual? Ould that cause any problems?

Thanks again guys,
Luke

 

[Roccobro]

Take a look at the hammer. On many of my Marlins I've filed/smoothed away the unnecessary amount. You'll see what I mean when you look at it.

As your cocking watch just how far the hammer needs to go down to engage and stay. Now watch how much further it travels unnecessarily. Some of the newer 1895 bolts actually have a "hump" made into them to press down the hammer the extra amount.

Once you start slicking up that area (or removing material as most on MarlinOwners site do) you'll notice a tremendous amount of difference in effort.

Justin

 

[Red Cent]

An action job on a firearm is really accelerated wear. Cycle the action a number of times and then disassemble. You will see the wear marks that need to be polished and/or carefully smoothed out. As the bolt cocks the hammer, the hammer continues to exert a lot of pressure upwards on the bolt. This causes friction between the hammer and bolt and the bolt and the rails of the receiver. Again, lighten the springs, polish, and smooth all the moving internal edges. Be careful filing on top of the hammer. It is important that the hammer contact maintains a rounded, level, even surface or you will develop grooves.
Besides Cody Conagher, this is the next best Marlin gunsmith.
http://www.longhunt.com/
Long Hunter carries all the spring kits. Long Hunter is a world champion cowboy shooter by the way.