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Strange Range Day

Discussion in 'Blackpowder' started by rodwha, Feb 15, 2014.

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  1. rodwha

    rodwha Member

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    Finally made it out to the range.

    I had broken in my rifle and was ready to begin working on an accurate load. I broke my rifle in using the Pyrodex (P/RS) that I strongly disliked as the fouling was very sticky.

    I've bought a bit of 3F Olde Eynsford as it's relatively inexpensive yet energetic. From what I've read Swiss and Olde E don't leave nearly as much fouling as the other BP's or Pyrodex, but I was having serious issues loading and wiping after 3 shots. I had to hammer home some of the PRB's and hammer the range rod out after it's initial swab.

    I was moving in increments of 10 grns as I figured I could more quickly weed out what wasn't good and move back to where the groups were best to try by 5 grns. But I was getting very random groups, and I'm wondering how much had to do with a dirty bore and even the hammered RB's.

    60 grns, which is where I began, was obviously not the ticket, but I was back and forth on the 70 and 80 grn charges.

    I'm wondering about using Olde E and wiping every shot or trying T7 instead.

    I also REALLY need to go get glasses.

    I also found that my new Pietta '58 Remington can't quite hold 40 grns and a ball. Maybe opening the chambers to .450" or so will enable that last grain or two…

    After shooting 4 cylinders from the Remington I really gained an appreciation for my Ruger! No binding and wiping needed.

    It seems I ought to chamfer the chambers too as the ram was dinging the chamber mouths.

    I also found that the speed loader tubes I bought from Winchester Sutler has something like static that makes some powder stick to the walls. Hard to be consistent like that…

    Despite all of the problems it was a great day, and I love making smoke and thunder!
     
  2. rodwha

    rodwha Member

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    I also found that the balls I cast with my new Lee .457" mold dropped them small enough to not shave a ring. I'm fairly certain it was pure lead. Some was lead piping with cap n ball bullets. I assume those were pure as I didn't cast them. The .490" balls are also small.

    But maybe it's a casting problem...
     
  3. loose noose

    loose noose Member

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    rodwa, what caliber is your rifle and what make?
     
  4. rodwha

    rodwha Member

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    It's a Lyman's Deerstalker that's .50 cal and percussion.

    I'm considering changing out the fiber optic sights to more traditional ones as these are so big they'd cover up all that I'd need to see past 50 yds!
     
  5. rodwha

    rodwha Member

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    I've seen how someone has modified their Remington's cylinder to have the protrusion that protects the cylinder/base pin from collecting so much fouling. I assume they've take steel off of the cylinder face? If so the barrel would need to be screwed in further, though it doesn't appear to be possible.

    Are there any other fixes to keep it running beyond 3-4 cylinders? I wiped the face off as well as the barrel after the 3rd cylinder, but it wasn't long before the 4th was binding so I just set it aside and shot the Ruger.
     
  6. Willie Sutton

    Willie Sutton Member

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    ^^ Grease the heck outta the arbor (or whatever they are called on Remmies) and add a bit over the ball too. Its messy but keeps things soft. The Remmie is so easy to remove the cylinder from that you probably ought to do so and wipe on more grease between every second cylinder or so.

    I shoot mine an average of five or six cylinders per outing and can keep it shooting for that long without more than a wipe and grease every second cylinder. I'm using bore butter, which is miserable in the Mojave in the summer (runs like water) but it does keep fouling soft.

    I'm sure there are better lubes, and any of the other Pards ought to chime in if they know. I'd like to find something a bit thicker for hot weather shooting.


    Willie

    .
     
  7. rodwha

    rodwha Member

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    I bought a bunch of the materials to make Gatofeo's lube, and do have some lubed wads, though I haven't used them in a looooong time now.

    It began with Ballistol on it, but I didn't have any with me so I used some WD-40.
     
  8. Willie Sutton

    Willie Sutton Member

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    That's the problem, and even Ballistol is not the right stuff for greasing. You need something non-petroleum based with some body and substance. The bore butter works fine, it's just messy when it's hot. At this time of the year it's pretty good. WD-40 is worthless in this application.

    What powder were you using? Olde E as in your rifle?


    Remmies love grease... did I mention that Remmies love grease? It's what keeps 'em shootin'. Nice and greasy... :)


    Willlie

    .
     
  9. rodwha

    rodwha Member

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    3F Olde Eynsford.

    Greasy, eh?
     
  10. rodwha

    rodwha Member

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    Anyone shoot Triple 7 through their '58 and noticed an extended shooting period before wiping was necessary?
     
  11. BowerR64

    BowerR64 Member

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    I havnt noticed any extended anything shooting my repros no matter what powder i shoot. 6 shots clean, 6 shots clean thats how i have to do it.

    Sure i can go without cleaning it but its wasted lead because the groups are no where near as good as when its clean so why not swab it.

    I noticed some static with my tubes also, i think i got the static from my funnel i got at hobby lobby. I just wiped everything with a dryer sheet and the problem was gone.
     
  12. Crawdad1

    Crawdad1 Member

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    One of the nuances of the Remington and Colts have theirs also, but don't use plastic anything, go with brass funnels, plenty of them out there. And cheap.
     
  13. wap41

    wap41 Member

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    I use american pioneer powder(white powder) and have no fouling problems and very easy clean up
     
  14. loose noose

    loose noose Member

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    rodwa, I use nothing but the real holy black in Goex, and Swiss in all my smoke poles and have since shooting BP arms 45 years ago, although here recently I was only able to get Kiki BP.

    As far as keeping my Remington '58s shooting for a prolonged time, I spray the cylinders with a small amount of Pam cooking oil near the forcing cone and the back of the cylinder. I know it's not period correct, but it keeps my revolvers shooting the holy black till the cows come home.
     
  15. whughett

    whughett Member

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    Willie when you are home where do you shoot, I have been a member at Smithfield for 33 years.
     
  16. whughett

    whughett Member

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    Winchester Sutler does recommend putting the tubes in a plastic bag with some talic and shaking them up, this was after a machine washing.
     
  17. rodwha

    rodwha Member

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    Bower: So you swab your bore and chambers, and wipe it down after every cylinder?

    I suppose I just haven't seen any real degradation when using my Ruger. It does fairly well no matter what I do. And there's likely a difference, but I'm just not good enough to see it.

    wap41: I am stuck on using energetic powders as I intend to hunt with my guns too, and so I need performance, which leaves me with Swiss, Olde Eynsford, and Triple 7. With any other powder, though I've heard from one fellow who states Pyrodex gives him very good velocities, I'm stuck around 300 ft/lbs, whereas I can break 500 ft/lbs with the others.

    loose noose: Though I like to be historical if possible, I'm not stuck on it. Pam, eh?
     
  18. Willie Sutton

    Willie Sutton Member

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    "Willie when you are home where do you shoot, I have been a member at Smithfield for 33 years. "

    "Home"? ... boy that's a loaded question regarding where... I spend four months a year in the Mojave, three in Florida, three in Wisconsin and the Upper Penninsula of Michigan, and the rest in Rhode Island. Cap & Ball is generally my Mojave Desert hobby, although my collection resides for the most part in Wisconsin. I'll drag out a piece or two and shoot with you anytime I'm close to you though.


    Pam... that's probably a good remedy. Spray-on grease might be easier to deal with than wipe-on grease. I'll grab a can and give it a shot next time I'm out, no pun intended.


    Willie

    .
     
  19. loose noose

    loose noose Member

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    Yes Sir, I've used Pam out here in the desert for years, all it takes is just a little squirt or two after loading the cylinder and you're good to go. Don't matter how hot it gets either. Try it I'm sure you'll like it.
     
  20. Willie Sutton

    Willie Sutton Member

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    Excellent tip, sir, and well taken!

    Willie

    .
     
  21. Ifishsum

    Ifishsum Member

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    I use olive oil on the base pin and cylinder, works quite well keeping my '58 going for several cylinders and it keeps fouling nice and soft. Similar to the Pam idea I guess.
     
  22. 351 WINCHESTER

    351 WINCHESTER Member

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    I can easily get over 45 grains of 777 in my 1858 Pietta. At first I thought the powder measurer was wrong, but I verified it with another and it was spot on.
     
  23. rodwha

    rodwha Member

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    On my next outing I'll be trying T7 in mine as well. Hopefully that'll be Friday.

    I noticed that I could get 45 grns of T7 behind a ball in my ROA, but when I tried it with Olde E I had to pull a nipple and poke it out as there was too much to try to shave down.
     
  24. swathdiver

    swathdiver Member

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    37 grains is the chamber capacity for a Pietta Remmy NMA. Using a 35 grain spout on the flask works for me.
     
  25. rodwha

    rodwha Member

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    Someone mentioned to me that they can get 45 grns of Triple 7 into theirs.

    I noticed the same thing with my ROA, but when I tried loading that much Olde E I had to remove the nipple and push it out.

    When I go to the range next time I'll be trying out the T7 and swabbing it after each cylinder.
     
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