Suggestions on a good fighting knife

[ArmySon]

I'm in the military (Army) and as an infantryman, I utilize my knife quite a bit in the field. For some time now, I've been carrying a Busse Steel Heart on my LBV (load bearing vest).

The Busse is a great general purpose, hacking knife. However, it's not really an ideal fighting knife. I'm looking to purchasing another knife in the near future.

Any suggestions? I was looking into Mad Dog's A.T.A.K or maybe a Strider. I prefer fixed blades around 6 to 7 inches. It also has to be durable to various weather conditions.

Thanks.

 

[yankytrash]

Hey ArmySon, good to hear from ya.

My ol' beater is a USAF "Survival Knife", by Ontario. I'm sure you can get your hands on the real thing. Can't tell ya about it's fighting characteristics, but she can take the abuse of daily construction (destruction??) and hours upon hours of time spent in the woods abusing it on various projects. Makes a formidable screwdriver, with no snapped-off tips.

It's also nice to have the honing stone right there handy on the sheath, should the need arise.

Has a nice balance for both large and small work, and an excellent handguard. The hammer hilthead comes in more useful than you could ever dream possible.

My first suggestion would be to get the gut ripper sharpened though. New, they usually come dull.

Stay safe out there. Thanks.

 

[AnklePocket]

Can't go wrong with any Strider although you might take a look at what may be the best value on the planet in www.lameyknives.com . You'll see what I mean.

 

[ACP]

Hi ArmySon

Is a Randall too old fashioned? You can get one in just about any configuration you like. I like mine -- 7" stainless blade in the #1 style, nickel hilt, linen scales, lanyard hole. A Model 1 in carbon steel with a 7" blade might be what you're looking for.

 

[9mmepiphany]

i gotta second the recommendation of a randall #1...when it comes to fixed bladed edged weapons, i still like that old designs

 

[JShirley]

Son,

My ideal fighting knife is a Himalayan Imports 16.5" WWII kukuri.



I recently bought a Kershaw Echo to keep on my LBV (kuk is too large for LBV carry). The Echo is small enought that I can keep it in my barracks room without getting in trouble, and since it's on my LBV, it may be accessible when my Benchmade is not (covered with rain or snivel gear). I let a bud from 3rd Brigade borrow mine when he headed off to NTC...

Peace,

John

 

[ACP]

Here's the link: http://www.randallknives.com/military.asp

Or you can call Cubeta's Field & Stream in Middlefield, Connecticut USA (203) 347-4353 and ask for Tom and he'll set you up with what you need. They've got quite a selection of Randalls there.

FYI, mine is the model "G." Comes with a leather sheath w/sharpening stone in a small, attached external leather pocket.

 

[ArmySon]

ACP

I had the model 16 at one time but while gutting a deer, the tip hit a bone and broke. After that, I was not too impressed.

It might have been just bad luck on my part but I'm still wary of Randalls.

 

[ACP]

There you go. Sorry to hear about it. Strider makes some nice knives, as does David Broadwell.

Here's another link: http://www.robertsoncustomcutlery.com/broadtf.htm

 

[CWL]

Mad Dog knife of course.

One of the few truely handmade knives left. Kevin will take care of you.

 

[ACP]

Oh yeah, I forgot -- Mad Dog. Nice stuff.

www.mdenterprise.com

 

[jthuang]

How about a Lynn Griffith?

http://www.griffithknives.com/gallerysos1a.html

Only problem is the 12 month wait.

Justin

 

[Mikul]

I have been pouring over this issue, on and off, for a couple of years. There are several issues to decide upon.

1) How are you likely to use the knife: slashing, stabbing, cutting, etc? Certain blade styles lend themselves far better to one or another. If stabbing is your game, you'll need a longer blade if you plan to reach anything vital.

2) How concealable does the knife need to be. A full sized Bowie is a great knife, but you may need a shoulder holster to conceal it. Most folders are too small unless concealability is your #1 concern.

3) Does the knife need to operate as a blocking/defensive item? Again, you'll need a longer blade.

I like the idea of Strider's knives, but there are far less expensive blades that are likely to do the same thing for you. If I were SpecOps or a merc, I might feel differently.

 

[1911]

I would go with the Randall or the Griffith.Both are fine knives and are ground properly.I have seen way to many quality control problems with the MD line and could not whole heartedly recommend one.I

 

[JShirley]

Also, remember body size of the user. Son makes me look big! I'm pretty sure I remember an old pic of him being held by two Playboy bunnies.

 

[Preacherman]

What about the good old Marine Ka-Bar??? I've always looked on these as the quintessential general-purpose "grunt knife", and good in a fight too, if necessary. How would they compare with the more specialized recommendations in this thread?

 

[Bladeandbarrel]

For FIGHTING with a knife
(Why bother if you have an M-4???)

A Bowie is unequaled. 9" blade MINIMUM. Fully flat ground with thin edge geometry and pointy tip preferred.


A Mad Dog Panther would probably suffice though.

How much are you willing to spend?

 

[Bladeandbarrel]

This would be perfect

 

[1911]

for a porr mans knife the cold steel is going to be hard to beat.

 

[Don Gwinn]

Somehow I doubt Son's looking for a poor man's knife. I too have had my doubts about Mad Dog quality control, but, to be perfectly honest, I'm not sure I trust the source of those doubts. Some of you will recall the long feud between Mike Turber and Mad Dog. That's all I'll say about that one.

 

[1911]

Mike Turber is not the only person that has had bad bussiness dealings with md.A simple search of his sight will uncover lots of unhappy folks.

 

[John G]

ArmySon,
I was 11b when I was in, and my Cold Steel Recon Tanto worked just fine. Its good and tough, fits nicely on my belt under the BDU shirt. My buddies liked it so much, I gave it to one of them when I got out.

 

[ArmySon]

A nice, long blade sounds nice and all but it's really impractical due to the fact it would hinder my movements while attached to my load bearing vest. In other words, it'd be packed away in my ruck and not easily accessible.

As is, my Busse's kydex sheath has a thigh strap to keep it from flopping around when repelling or jumping. That's why a blade around 7" is the max I could handle for an individual my size.

Some of the knives I have seen are beautiful and well designed. However, while spending 30 days out in the field, proper maintenance of the handle and blade comes secondary to my M4 and rest of the equipment. That's why wood handles are out of the question.

Slick handles are a liability also due to weather conditions. I don't have the luxury of utilizing an umbrella and we RARELY ever use wet weather gear. Even with wet weather gear, the load bearing vest is 100% exposed to the elements.

 

[Bladeandbarrel]

You asked for a fighting knife.

It sounds like what you really need is a combat knife.

There are some subtle differences.

In that size range I love the Simonich Raven . terrific knife and maker.

www.simonichknives.com

The handle is no-slip, sheath is excellent, and S30V steel is optimum for a stainless steel combat knife. Under $300 and the the blade can be had in 7" length..

 

[ArmySon]

I've seen Matt Lamey's work and it's excellent. He's also a very nice fellow.