Superlube?

[Sanjuro40]

Hello, I am new to black powder shooting, and have been researching quite a bit about the oils to use. I know not to use any petroleum base oils. I was wondering if anybody has tried using "Superlube"? It is a non-petroleum based synthetic, and some formulations have cleaning properties. I am not affiliated with the company in anyway.

This "Superlube" seems to be much less expensive that other traditional black powder lubes and greases out there - so please let me know you thoughts.

V/r,

John

 

[Misfire99]

Well I have never heard of it so I did a search. I found it for about $10 for a little itty bitty tube. This seems like a hole lot for nothing special. Considering that a tube of wonder lube is about ten times as large for the same $10 I think super lube is over priced.

I have used wonder lube a lot but I am now trying out using Trewax Paste on both the metal and wood parts of my guns. It's mostly carnauba wax. So far the Trewax is working just fine and is cheaper still.

 

[Sanjuro40]

Sorry, I should have posted a link.

Try this:

http://www.superlubesynthetic.com/index.html

They have a two, 14 oz grease canisters for $24 ($12 for 14 oz.)

Seems faily reasonable?

What interested me more was the "Syncopen" - a cleaner, lubricant, and protectant in a 32 oz spray bottle for $16.

Again, I am not in anyway connected to the company - I am just wondering if anyone has used this oil.

I could always Take One For The Team and try it myself....

V/r,

John

 

[Bad Flynch]

This stuff is an automobile-type grease. That is, automobile chassis and wheel bearing greases are usually made with a soap (natural or synthetic) base. The soap base then acts as a carrier for the oils (petroleum or synthetic) and as a carrier for incidental stuff, too (PTFE, Molybdenum Disulfide, and formerly, asbestos).

These soaps have a really bad reputation for producing "icky-sticky" fouling when used with black powder. The fouling is usually hard and detrimental to accuracy. Most black powder lubes do not contain soaps, at all, although some simple soaps have proven effective at times.

It is cheap enough to try, so why not? It will not eat your gun alive.

Just a guess, but it seems logical at least.

 

[Im283]

So what is wrong with crisco? It is cheap and not dino based.

As for infernal, err internal parts is Rem Oil sufficient?

 

[mykeal]

So what is wrong with crisco?

It breaks down in hot weather and becomes messy to work with.

As for infernal, err internal parts is Rem Oil sufficient?

Sufficient? Yes. Petroleum based, so care must be taken to avoid areas where black powder combustion products may be present.

 

[Im283]

so dino based oils add to gunking things up?

I guess I need to get something specifically for the BP then.

I have not had a problem with crisco but I really only use it to cover my balls when I load up. Err, balls in the cylinders, lol

Just thought of something I have a aerosal can of Rem DriLube.
It is a dry lube , duh, that claims to leave a telfon coating.

Well I found my reading glasses and now i see it also claims to have petroleum distillates. So i am guessing it is no good either.

I just checked every gun oil I have. All three have petro in it.

What about Olive oil?

okay I found my own answers, on the sticky at the top of the board

While the parts are still warm, cover well with olive oil, lard, tallow, Crisco or any commercially made black powder lubricant. Vegetable or animal-based oils are best for black powder, as they reduce fouling. These warm parts will soak up these natural oils quickly. Don't be afraid to reapply. These will season the metal and prevent fouling from sticking so readily.
I saturate a clean patch with tallow or Crisco and push it down the bore. A hot barrel will soak up a lot of this natural grease but that's good.
A non-petroleum grease on the cylinder pin (Crisco is good) will keep the cylinder from binding from fouling. The revolver may be stored with this grease on it; Crisco doesn't seem to dry out like other natural greases. I also like to lubricate all screw theads with Crisco or beeswax; it makes them easier to remove later after a long firing session.

 

[GENTLEMAN OF THE CHARCOAL]

/////////////////

 

[jackinil]

I personally use a Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil and beeswax mix. Works fine.

J Schmidt
46th Illinois,N-SSA

 

[GENTLEMAN OF THE CHARCOAL]

////

 

[scrat]

bore butter. is all i have been using i guess i can try crisco as soon as i go through all my bore butter. no use spending money if i dont have too.

 

[dwave]

I use crisco on the pin and frame, and Olive oil on the internals. Seems fine so far. As far as with the ball, I use a homemade lube pill under the ball, and over the powder.

 

[Im283]

I did some digging around in a cabinet in the garage today. I was looking at grease, oils and stuff I have in there. I found this caulking sized tube called
"Blanco Max with Teflon White Food Grade Grease" I took a dab of this and put it on the cylinder pin of the '58 Remington. That cylinder spins pretty good now. Way better than it did with oil on it.

I have no idea what this stuff is or any recollection of acquiring it. There is no listing on the package of what this is made from other than Teflon. It is the color of Crisco and about the same consistancy.

It does have a warning that it is harmful if swallowed. Darn it I was gonna eat some too.