SW 686- What do the dash models mean?

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mach1.3

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I have been recently bitten by the revolver bug. I've always wanted a SW 686 but have been stumped by the dash designations i.e. -2,-3,-4, -6. Could someone enlighten me? Are some models more desirable than others? Are some to be avoided? What should I look at to maintain that a revolver is in very good to excellent condition mechanically? How would I ascertain the usage level of a gun? Should I buy a used gun or a new one? I want preferrably a 4" or 6" bbl. I'm not sure what grips are best---I do have a smaller than average size hand.
 
686 (1980): No dash, Begin regular production.
686-1 (1986): Radius stud package; floating hand.
686-M (1987): Recall by S&W and overstamped to indicate a modification by the factory or warranty station; applies to 686 and 686-1 only.
686-2 (1987): Change hammer nose, bushing and associated parts.
686-3 (1988): New yoke retention system.
1990: 2-1/2" barrel introduced.
686-4 (1993): Change rear sight leaf, drill and tap frame, change extractor, introduce Hogue grips.
1995: Introduce power port barrel.
1995: Introduce 7-shot cylinder with seven flutes in 6" barrel length with round butt frame. Serrated backstrap, smooth trigger, 7-point star extractor, RR front sight, service hammer WO rear sight blade, Hogue grips with S&W logo.
1996: Delete square butt; begin shipments in a foam-filled blue plastic case.
1997: Change thumbpiece; ship with Master trigger lock.
686-5 (1997): Change frame design to eliminate cylinder stop stud; eliminate serrated tangs; change to MIM hammer with floating firing pin, change to MIM trigger, change internal lockwork.
686-6 (2001): Internal hammer and trigger key lock.
686-7 (2002): Performance Center variation in .38 Super.

Dan
 
Should I buy a used gun or a new one?

I'd look for a used S&W. Smith's quality control as of late has been rather...spotty. (I own two of them, one made in the late 1970s and one made in the mid 2000s...and I rejected one that I ordered new through Davidson's because it had too many problems out of the box.)
 
buy a pre-lock, pre MIM gun.

It is not filled with injection molded parts and has a barrel that is one piece....no idiot lock


Read the sticky at the top of the revolver forum on how to check out a revolver
 
The 686 is an excellent 357 with reputation of being very accurate. It also comes with a nice action. I prefer the looks of the pre lock models but the new ones that I've fired were fine.
 
Everybody and his dog make grips for the L frame. If the target stocks are too big it should be zero problem finding something you like.
 
Howdy

The dashes denote engineering changes that took part over the production life of the particular model.

S&W began using model numbers for all their products in 1957. Prior to that, the different models were identified by specific names such as Military and Police model. Once the changeover was made to Model numbers, dashes were used to keep track of different engineering changes as time went on.

For my money, I always go for used Smiths. Have not bought a brand new one since 1975.
 
I'd wouldn't worry about MIM parts. I have seen the locks malfunction on youtube, never real life though. But I still would remove the lock if bought one, I heard you could and replace it with a dummy of some sort.
 
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